In response to a suggestion by a fellow 410DA owner from up in the North who said we need our own thread, I am starting THE OFFICIAL 410DA thread. This is it. Post your comments, questions and BS here when talking about our boats.
410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**
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mistercomputerman
5,761 - 5,780 of 6,004 Posts
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9,753 Posts
Looks nice.
Maybe you posted upthread, but will that be through to the helm floor?
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42 Posts
- Location
- Lake Erie, Ohio
It will attach to the same disc that it did before, which is through bolted.
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14 Posts
Can anyone identify this transducer in my 2000 410 Sundancer? I'm pretty sure it is the original factory installed unit. The reason I ask is the previous owner removed all of the factory electronics and replaced with a Garmin GPSMap 8612 in place of the radar, and a Garmin GPSMap 741 in the dash. They didn't connect anything other than power to both units. I will get radar back by adding a Phantom 24 array but I need to get depth back. If possible, I would like to interface the stock transducer into either of the Garmins and call it a day. I think I have figured out that I need a Garmin 6-pin Transducer to 8-pin Sounder Adapter Wire Block but before ordering I would like to know for sure what transducer I have. I think it is a B60 based on some other answers I have seen here but I don't know if that is a Raymarine or Airmar part. Does anyone know for sure?
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42 Posts
- Location
- Lake Erie, Ohio
That may be the speed transducer. Is there a label down the line on the cable? Is there another one transducer on the other side? If you fine the depth transducer they absolutely can be connected to the Garmin via their transducer adaptor. I have done dozens of them. The vast majority of transducers are airmar, even if they are labeled Raymarine, Garmin, etc.
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14 Posts
Yes, there are two transducers there. For some reason I thought the starboard side one was depth and the port was spped and temp. I could have them backwards. Unfortunately, the labels wrapped around the cables crumbled to pieces when I tried to get to them. I put t pic below.
Thank you for confirming that they will connect to the Garmins.
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2,063 Posts
- Location
- New Buffalo Michigan
Where did you buy those? Are you planning on just getting longer bolts to go all the way to the floor adapter?
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6,382 Posts
- Location
- Milton, GA
If you follow the wires (you will likely have to dig) there is a white tag with a part number on it. Take a pic.
Likely Airmar B60. The are all made by Airmar
You are correct that a pigtail adapter will likely get you going. The issue might be that these were originally set up to work with Raymarine, and going to Garmin may/may not work depending on the pin outs of the sensors and pigtails. I can confirm this worked on a Raymarine update.
However, they now make an all-in-1 DST-800, or DST-810 that is N2K ready. Just add a N2K drop to it and be done, but a little more expensive --> https://www.airmar.com/Product/DST810
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42 Posts
- Location
- Lake Erie, Ohio
If the boat is out of the water, speed will have a wheel. Depth transducer will not. Garmin conversion should work just fine.
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42 Posts
- Location
- Lake Erie, Ohio
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42 Posts
- Location
- Lake Erie, Ohio
I made them. And yes will get the same bolts only longer to reach the floor adaptor.
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42 Posts
- Location
- Lake Erie, Ohio
Since I can’t finish one project without starting another, the process has begun to replace 24 year old hoses. Started with the vacuflush toilet and pump out. Moved on to the fuel fill hoses. Exhaust and water supply hoses are next. I am impressed with the quality of the trident hoses Much better than the factory.
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Attachments
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5,220 Posts
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Anyone know if the cockpit for the EC and DA of the same year (2002 in our case) was the same? It sure looks like it is.
Trying to get a used cockpit cover from an EC to use in spring/fall instead of putting out full canvas up when we pull the wrap. Of course I’ll have to put snaps in but that’s fine
Trying to get a used cockpit cover from an EC to use in spring/fall instead of putting out full canvas up when we pull the wrap. Of course I’ll have to put snaps in but that’s fine
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7,598 Posts
- Location
- West Michigan
Hey fellas, I forgot to grab a measurement when I was at my boat yesterday. Can any of you guys tell me what size MFD you were able to fit in the stock radar location on our boats? I can't recall if we can squeeze a 12" or go all the way up to a 16". Thanks!
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7,598 Posts
- Location
- West Michigan
Sorry so slow here, Strecker. If you didn't already try to make this work, I have a cockpit cover from my boat I'd be willing to part with. It's been in a bin since I bought my boat, it's not an appealing color (brown) but it should still be in tact. They are bulky though, probably $$$'s to ship. Let me know if you're still looking, I can grab some pics.
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5,220 Posts
- Location
- Rochester, NY
no worries! I grabbed it and will have it this week, I’m sure I can make it work with some snap changes and it’ll last me the 2-3 weeks of use per year I’m after. Thanks for the offer though!
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7,598 Posts
- Location
- West Michigan
Any of you fellas used any interesting products or processes to restore the entry way door area? I want to find a way to cover up the existing vinyl as it's a bit grimey and I managed to nick a few spots when installing my new fridge two seasons back.
My current thought is to use Sunbrella that matches the existing and glue strips on just the entry way "wrap around". The trick on the forward/horizontal part is how far in the vinyl goes inside on the cabin ceiling. Not sure I can pull that off without it looking terrible.
Any ideas or anything you guys have done before? Thanks!
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My current thought is to use Sunbrella that matches the existing and glue strips on just the entry way "wrap around". The trick on the forward/horizontal part is how far in the vinyl goes inside on the cabin ceiling. Not sure I can pull that off without it looking terrible.
Any ideas or anything you guys have done before? Thanks!
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6,382 Posts
- Location
- Milton, GA
This is one area of my boat that need attention as well, including repairing the tracks and rollers, but it just never seems to make the must do list. Last year I bought some felt tape to line the edges where top door is dragging on the gel coat, but havent had the time to do even that.
Watching.
Watching.
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275 Posts
- Location
- Buffalo NY
I redid only the entryway vertical pieces, had removed them to put the new fridge in. I sliced the existing vinyl, removed the screws and recovered. I think 3 or 4 screws hold it on. To put back on, pull the vinyl back and start a screw, tighten and then tuck the vinyl in with a plastic putty knife of something similar. I seem to recall a few winkles from yanking on the vinyl, hairdryer on low took care of those. Use caulk like Sea Ray did on the inside seam. DAP almond worked. DO NOT tape the caulk line, do it free hand. When you remove the tape, the vinyl stretches a bit and screws it all up.
I'm in FL so can't send pics for awhile.
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2,063 Posts
- Location
- New Buffalo Michigan
I just redid the strip on the starboard side of the entry, when our dog was a puppy he decided it was a nice teething toy.
I was able to find the exact match vinyl and redid it myself. I think the vinyl in my 2000 is a little lighter than the 97-99 from being on several others. My manual called for Allante Sea Oyster faux leather.
Super easy to do but I could never figure out how Sea Ray put the screws behind the vinyl and stapled the material on. I wound up just screwing in from the outside and using those little off white plastic screw caps. Looks factory enough for me.
New piece with the offender in question:
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7,598 Posts
- Location
- West Michigan
Awesome. Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I like the idea of removing, recovering, and plastic screw caps. Cool!
FWIW I bought several samples from Sailrite. My 97 looks to be a "very close" match to Sunbrella oyster.
FWIW I bought several samples from Sailrite. My 97 looks to be a "very close" match to Sunbrella oyster.
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