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captainKirk

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Howdy. I have a 2002 300DA. I need to find a power source for the 7A requirement on this device. Was hoping to find a power and ground bus under the dash but it appears not easily available. My second thought was to attach a 7A inline fuse to the 15A cigarette lighter plug. There must be a better way.
Thanks.
 
Howdy. I have a 2002 300DA. I need to find a power source for the 7A requirement on this device. Was hoping to find a power and ground bus under the dash but it appears not easily available. My second thought was to attach a 7A inline fuse to the 15A cigarette lighter plug. There must be a better way.
Thanks.
I would run a new line with it's own breaker. If you don't have room for a new panel mount breaker you can always use something like this -

 
Where is your main DC breaker panel? You can get power from there and use an inline fuse or breaker. Your unit may have come with a fuse already - but you need to move that fuse close to the power supply.

I wouldn't add 7amps to the cig lighter circuit - it'd be possible to overwhelm the wiring. BUT... if you switched the cig lighter to a USB port, then you COULD use that circuit.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I would run a new line with it's own breaker. If you don't have room for a new panel mount breaker you can always use something like this -

Was hoping for an answer like "hey you must have missed the bus bar and terminal block behind the stearing wheel". Thank you. I will route all the way back to the main bus breaker with one of your amazon cool breakers. But I will only do this the next time I pull out for new bottom paint in winter at the same time I add the 3d sonar transducer. Actually I think its the transducer that requires the most of the 7A circuit anyway. For now I think I am going hijack the cig lighter plug.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Where is your main DC breaker panel? You can get power from there and use an inline fuse or breaker. Your unit may have come with a fuse already - but you need to move that fuse close to the power supply.

I wouldn't add 7amps to the cig lighter circuit - it'd be possible to overwhelm the wiring. BUT... if you switched the cig lighter to a USB port, then you COULD use that circuit.
Thanks. your USB idea is excellent. I need the cig lighter plug to plug in an air pump for inflatable toys but I can add that at a much more convient location on the boat. Still deciding but I have enough to go on. Thanks again.
 
Thanks. your USB idea is excellent. I need the cig lighter plug to plug in an air pump for inflatable toys but I can add that at a much more convient location on the boat. Still deciding but I have enough to go on. Thanks again.
I always thought that having a cigarette lighter style outlet in the cockpit by the boarding door would be hugely convenient for filling water toys, rather than dragging them close to the helm. And wiring would be simple since it’s close to the batteries in the bilge. Just install an inline fuse and run the wiring straight to the batteries.
 
Adding onto the thoughts expressed... I thought the same. With my 260DA, I had a small cubby just inside the transom door (the battery switch was here, as well). I liked using a heavier duty/faster Airhead pump for toys - but the downside was that it was meant to be clipped right to a battery with alligator clips, rather than the slower/less powerful version with a cig lighter plug.

So my solution was to tie off of the load side of the battery switch with an inline fuse for the positive (I liked NOT having it powered all the time) and I installed "remote" battery posts high up in the wall of the cubby and added rubber guards to the posts, as well. For the ground, I just dropped down into the bilge to one of the ground bus bars.

Now... for these remote battery posts... well, I was feeling in a "cheap" mood, so... I just used 1/4-20 bolts with extra nuts on the exposed stud for more "gripping area".
 
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