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Starboard engine has been running a bit warm lately, but not so much that its over temp...just enough to annoy me.

Leaned over the back of the engine to take a photo...ooo! that's not good!!

Image


And, if you want to know what a seized water pump bearing looks like then, there you have it.

This is what it does to the impeller...

Image


Recovered all the bits.

Can't even rebuild it as the internal housing grate has turned into a honed knife...new one on order.
 
Starboard engine has been running a bit warm lately, but not so much that its over temp...just enough to annoy me.

Leaned over the back of the engine to take a photo...ooo! that's not good!!

View attachment 176959

And, if you want to know what a seized water pump bearing looks like then, there you have it.

This is what it does to the impeller...

View attachment 176961

Recovered all the bits.

Can't even rebuild it as the internal housing grate has turned into a honed knife...new one on order.

Damn. Quickest way to overheat an engine. I'm paranoid. In aditton to inspecting them every spring during commissioning, I replace them every two years..
 
I thought the raw water pump was gear driven.

So the bearing in the pump failed?

How is it lubricated?

How many engine hours?

BEST !

RWS
 
I thought the raw water pump was gear driven.

So the bearing in the pump failed?

How is it lubricated?

How many engine hours?

BEST !

RWS
if the seal on the water side of the pump fails its designed to dump raw water into that opening (in my estimation, also why it's vented) so it doesn't get into the gear case and wreak havoc

supposedly the pumps are rebuildable but I just bought a new one, it's too important to risk
 
Yes, they're gear driven.

It's the same concept as my Jacuzzi water pump which also regularly fails. Except the Jacuzzi has an electric motor driving the shaft + impeller. As soon as water gets past the impeller it tracks down the shaft past the seal and makes a bee-line for the bearing!

If you catch it earlier enough, then there is a rebuild kit apparently. Otherwise NZ$3500 in this part of the world!

Oh and this is now on my regular maintenance checklist, because water outflow at the back of the boat showed nothing irregular, which is pretty surprising given the state of the impeller.
 
Yes, they're gear driven.

It's the same concept as my Jacuzzi water pump which also regularly fails. Except the Jacuzzi has an electric motor driving the shaft + impeller. As soon as water gets past the impeller it tracks down the shaft past the seal and makes a bee-line for the bearing!

If you catch it earlier enough, then there is a rebuild kit apparently. Otherwise NZ$3500 in this part of the world!

Oh and this is now on my regular maintenance checklist, because water outflow at the back of the boat showed nothing irregular, which is pretty surprising given the state of the impeller.
Check your other Impellar, you may have gotten used to water flow that looks fine on both sides but is not what it could be.
 
Really? My 2000 400DA had single Racor 500MA filters for engines (3116 Cats) and generator.
Now I’m intrigued as to what what was standard on what models. And wondering if the 400db 300hp had smaller than the 350hp (mine) and the 3116TA, I’m guessing we will find out from this conversation in this thread
 
Now I’m intrigued as to what what was standard on what models. And wondering if the 400db 300hp had smaller than the 350hp (mine) and the 3116TA, I’m guessing we will find out from this conversation in this thread
Not sure if this helps, but, my 1998 40DA has Racor 500MA filters for the engines (3116 Cats 300 HP) and generator.
 
Discussion starter · #3,272 ·
My '03 410 (316's) had 500's...
 
It looks like the default is the 500s for both mains and the generator. Upgrading to the 900 series for the mains just gives more surface area for the filter pleats, so in theory you wouldn't have to change the filters as frequently. The flow rate for the 500 and 900 series are the same at 227LPH, and it's not until you get to the 1000 series that you get more flow, in the 300LPH range. I don't think our engines require that much, so the 900 series would suffice. At least that's what I'll be looking for if I replace my 500s.

Would love to hear any differing thoughts on them. Given what I've gone through the last 2 weeks, more filter area isn't a bad thing, especially when the filters aren't that much more expensive between the 500 and 900 series, at least from what I can see.
 
It looks like the default is the 500s for both mains and the generator. Upgrading to the 900 series for the mains just gives more surface area for the filter pleats, so in theory you wouldn't have to change the filters as frequently. The flow rate for the 500 and 900 series are the same at 227LPH, and it's not until you get to the 1000 series that you get more flow, in the 300LPH range. I don't think our engines require that much, so the 900 series would suffice. At least that's what I'll be looking for if I replace my 500s.

Would love to hear any differing thoughts on them. Given what I've gone through the last 2 weeks, more filter area isn't a bad thing, especially when the filters aren't that much more expensive between the 500 and 900 series, at least from what I can see.
These filters rely on a swirling action (turbine filter system) to separate contaminates (water) from the fuel. That swirling action is based upon the flow velocity through them. If the filters are too large that turbine effect will not be there. Also these filters should be a roughing filter (30 micron) and the engine's the final filter (5 or 10 micron). There is a lot of information on how to size these filters and how they work on the Parker Racor Web site.
Secondly, if the fuel system is in good operating condition these filters really shouldn't even be needed as the 10 or 5 micron engine filters are still in line. But, still, water removal is essential and to rely on the engine's filter wouldn't be a good idea.
1725441800656.png
 
Just changed my 900's with 30 micron.

The Cat mechanic did it actually...he was giving it a good thump as he drained fuel out the bottom to dislodge any build up and it definitely worked. There was a bunch of black crud in the bucket. Apparently not bug, but the inner lining from the old fuel lines...apparently. I suppose they are 25 years old.
 
When calculating fuel flow rates it's important to remember that the return fuel flow volume is not part of the fuel burn calculation, but that volume does go through the filter system.

I learned that when I did the Yanmar refit on my 10 meter Trojan International.

The LP Series uses fuel to cool the pump, so that flow rate is significantly higher than the burn rate.

BEST !

RWS
 
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