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My boat has a Salt-Away injection system; actually three systems. I haven't used it however; the boat is used too much to realize any positive gain from my perspective. Now if I used the boat once a month then maybe it would be of benefit. To use the system there is a salt-away injector that a garden hose is connected to supply fresh water and that is connected to the interface(s) in the lazzerette. Close the seacock, turn on the fresh water through the Salt-Away injection unit then start the engine and run for ten or fifteen minutes while watching the engine temps - done.... For my application the Salt-Away product cost is quite high.
I originally became acquainted with the concept when I bought my Rinker 350 and found that it had a Volvo Penta Neutrasalt system installed with a toggle on the switch panel, Instructions were to simply hold the switch for 30 to 40 seconds prior to shut down. Their Salt Neutralizer was claimed to have elements that adhered to the interior surfaces of the cooling system as a metal treatment as well as neutralizing the salt. I was in fresh water for the first few years I owned it so did not use it until I moved to the salt and then sold it shortly afterwards. I have never really seen a side by side comparison of parts with and without the protection so it could be just snake oil. With or with out the injection system Ill still advocate for timely cooling system inspection and service though.
Carpe Diem
 
Here is another possible fix for you Pete, Replace your single 50 amp service with two 30s like most of us have or had on our 44s. You may find it more convenient in the future to find 30 amp services where you visit and you wont have to deal with the hassle of replacing your dock service outlet. I have not researched the cost of the Isolating transformers but may be worth it in the long run. Having 2 30s really gives you way more versatility. I would think that if your fifty amp cord is in good shape, you can sell it easily. Those cords are quite expensive.
Rusty
Good suggestion, Rusty. There are so extras added from the former owner, it's tough to find adequate space for 2 30 amp isolation transformers. I will keep that in mind when I'm ready to convert house batteries to lithium.
Flix
 
With my limited electrical knowledge, I'd like to check if this plan is acceptable. Of course, I wouldn't hold anyone responsible if thre are any mishap. To keep my house bank of 4 AGM gp 4D charged, I'd like to tap into the existing charger with my 110v outlet. Here are the specs:

Boat charger: Inteli-power PD2040
Input: 105-130 VAC 50/60 Hz
650 Watts
AC power circuit breaker min. size 10 amp

Pigtail plug: 14 AWG, NEMA 5-15

Shore outlet: 110 15amp

Extension cord: 12 AWG 50'

View attachment 106991 View attachment 106992 View attachment 106993
 
Pete, you should be able to just find the end of the 110 cord from both chargers, if they are hard wired in a j-box, turn off the charger at the panel, disconnect the wires, they should be terminated on a block. I can’t remember how mine were connected. I moved my thruster charger to the engine room when I lost it. I replaced with a Pro Nautic and plugged into a 110 receptacle I had in the ER.
Add a temporary plug on the end to your existing wire and plug into your extension cord. The helpful hardware guy at the Ace Hardware can tell you how to wire the plug. Usually polarity in an ac plug doesn’t matter but on the boat it should. I bet one of the electric wizards can pipe in and advise. I know that is more of a problem when matching the boat polarity for the entire system but maybe not a problem for individual stand alone appliances?
 
I would check to see if the ignition wire to the monitor control box is +12V when the ign switch is on. I think it is pin 36 on the connector.
I finally got to checking the control box and the ignition wires. They both have power when ignition switch set to on. I also tried unplugging and replugging the connector plug to control box hoping to "clean" the pins and re establish circuit. Still nothing from port engine.
Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
 
Re doing engine room and generator area lighting. Got the ER done. Need to order another roll of light for rest.
So the lighting is attached to the bottom of the hatches? It will be interesting to see what it looks like with the hatches open for major service. Looks nice and bright, Nice job.
 
So the lighting is attached to the bottom of the hatches? It will be interesting to see what it looks like with the hatches open for major service. Looks nice and bright, Nice job.
Here is picture with hatches open.
I stuck the strip lighting on bottom of hatch “gutter” all the way around, plus down the aluminum channel in the middle. If I have to do major service where the aluminum center channel has to come out I can cut that strip and then re connect it with short connector-strips made to connect two light strips together.
 
Here is picture with hatches open.
I stuck the strip lighting on bottom of hatch “gutter” all the way around, plus down the aluminum channel in the middle. If I have to do major service where the aluminum center channel has to come out I can cut that strip and then re connect it with short connector-strips made to connect two light strips together.
You might consider changing out the OEM ER lighting with these:Amazon.com: Bluefire 4 Pack Upgraded Super Bright DC 12V Led RV Ceiling Double Dome Light RV Interior Lighting Trailer Camper RV Lights Interior with ON/Off Switch for Trailer Camper Car RV Boat (Natural White): Automotive. I installed them in the 44 and the 506 and they made a huge difference.
Carpe Diem
 
I would NOT put that lighting down the center strip. Remember, the more connections you have the more problems you make. Besides a good old fashion flashlight would be the best between the engines.
For as cheap as these are it’s not a big deal to replace. And I’m hoping to never have a need to remove the center channel. It’s great to do routine maintenance without needing a flash light.
 
I’ll save those for future needs. Already have the strip light to install towards back.
Thanks!
 
Here is picture with hatches open.
I stuck the strip lighting on bottom of hatch “gutter” all the way around, plus down the aluminum channel in the middle. If I have to do major service where the aluminum center channel has to come out I can cut that strip and then re connect it with short connector-strips made to connect two light strips together.
I had a florescent tube and fixture attached to that center aluminum support and removed the screws from each end of the support. The electrical wire for the fixture was about an extra 12" long to allow the support to be moved out of the way. I cannot imagine working on those engines without being able to move it out of the way. The light was a wonderful addition with the hatches opened or closed.

Bennett
 
Rusty sent me that link over the winter, I used them and now I need sunglasses to check my oil.
 
I purchase my parts from Environmental Marine - this is from their website; item 6 are the "Duckbills" -
View attachment 100913
Resurfacing this topic. I’m on a week long trip with family. Master toilet vacuum pump will not stop running and of course light stays red. Toilet bowl holding water fine. want to look into duckbills. Can anyone confirm size of our duckbills are all 2”, and quantity is 4?
Also, if I can’t reach the starboard vacuum generator to replace duckbills because of exhaust pipe, any tricks to reaching it? I’m not in the boat as I write this to look at it but guessing to pull exhaust pipe off boat has to come out of water?

thanks for the help.
 
Why would you think it would have to come out of the water? The exhaust is above the water line as I recall. Makes no sense th have to haul the boat to remove the pipe or muffler.
 
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