Is there a dedicated forum for the 40 sedan bridge
40 sedan bridge forum
8 reading
Caseclosed
4,741 - 4,760 of 7,395 Posts
Joined
·
3,156 Posts
- Location
- Western NY (Lake Erie)
Exact replacements are available in white, chrome and black. I did chrome.
Search Perko 0170MSDDP1 and 0170MPODP1, that should turn up some choices.
There are 12 and 24 volt options so read the fine print, or just use your old bulbs. I did not get LED, Motors are running when they're on so I didn't care. They are festoon style lamps so you can change them to LED if you want. Or they might be available in LED ?
View attachment 85218
View attachment 85217
Joined
·
262 Posts
Pull them and paint them. They're pricey. I added green and red purpose made LED's to mine. Crazy bright now.
Joined
·
3,156 Posts
- Location
- Western NY (Lake Erie)
That definitely will work if you want to stay with white. I painted the crumby TV antenna, easier than fooling around getting a replacement and it looks new.
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
This doesn't answer your question but is just an alternative idea. Although mine works fine I use it once every almost never. When I do it's cumbersome to line up on the target. You could consider a nice hand held. It would be so much easier to use. Although I know the "if it's on the boat it's gotta work" disorder can play a factor.
Joined
·
3,448 Posts
- Location
- Northern IL.
Anchor light question.
Checking my running lights tonight I noticed that my anchor light works 360 degrees. However when the running lights are on, the front lamp illuminates. How difficult is it to reposition the pole 180 degrees?
Checking my running lights tonight I noticed that my anchor light works 360 degrees. However when the running lights are on, the front lamp illuminates. How difficult is it to reposition the pole 180 degrees?
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
That's the way it's supposed to be. The stern light on the center of the cockpit overhang provides the required light for the boats aft of you.
Joined
·
30 Posts
- Location
- Oakville, Ontario, Canada
Yes - I contacted them and they are definitely no longer available. Took a recommendation from scooper321 and bought a new Standard Horizon unit. We’ll simply call it step 1 in my electronics upgrade
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
View attachment 85243
I have the worlds lumpiest sliding door track. I've learned over the years it's from crud getting into the rollers and causing them to bind rather than roll. Gotta keep those rollers continually cleaned especially in salt.
I was getting ready to order a stainless steel track sleeve but didn't like what I read about installing them. So I thought I had nothing to lose by trying to file it smooth. Her is progress so far. The real high spots have been taken down but I still have some more to do. Already a huge difference in how the door rolls.
I was getting ready to order a stainless steel track sleeve but didn't like what I read about installing them. So I thought I had nothing to lose by trying to file it smooth. Her is progress so far. The real high spots have been taken down but I still have some more to do. Already a huge difference in how the door rolls.
Joined
·
262 Posts
What exactly are you using to sand/file it down?
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
A flat file that I'm running back and forth. After I get it flat as I need I'll have to then round over the edges to try to recreate the original rounded shape for the wheels to sit on. This is another experiment...
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
More door stuff I took the door off today to inspect some things. First the inside of the bottom of the door was packed with debris. All sorts of stuff including some decent sized dead bugs. Second, the adjust screws to the rollers are rusted solid. Not sure if I will be able to break them free. Anyway I trenched both rollers with Kroil. The mounting screws came loose easily, so at least they can be removed without difficulty. Third, a replacement roller was recommended by someone here a while ago. I bought two of them at the time. I noticed the mounting screw and adjustment screw location are swapped on the new rollers. So now I am not sure if they will work or not.
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
- Location
- on a large body of water
The ones I purchased to replace mine fit perfectly. The whole job took less than a hour to replace them.
I posted about it somewhere back in this thread.
Joined
·
262 Posts
How tough is it to remove the door? This may be a silly question if it lifts right out once open. I just haven't tried it. I like the idea of at least turning it upside down, cleaning out the crud, and inspecting the rollers.
Joined
·
90 Posts
- Location
- Middle River, Md.
Drafter, if I remember correctly, you have a strip on the top of the door frame held in by screws. You take that out and lower your adjustment screws and lift the door and pull it toward you. I put a few towels on the deck to set the door on and tilted onto the bench seat. Greg
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
- Location
- on a large body of water
Door comes out very easily.
Here's my post on doing mine: http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/40-sedan-bridge-forum.53961/page-149#post-997183
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
Yup, I bought two of those. Maybe they put in a different door my year.
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
I didn't need to lower the adjustment screws. Plenty of clearance at the top for me once the strip is slid out of the top.
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
- Location
- on a large body of water
Problem with Sea Ray and their lack of QC. They seem to grab whatever is handy when producing these boats.
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
- Location
- Baltimore, MD
I've read back to the early posts between Tigger, Bill, Drafter and others about stereo upgrades. Now I'm trying to build on that by following the model of Drafter (I think?) and adding a second 10" subwoofer in a box in the storage area under the cockpit/helm steps. It should be a pretty straight-forward wiring job, because access to the existing speaker wiring is on the other side of the wall, under the sofa.
I'm adding a new amp to drive both the new subwoofer and the one on the bridge. Each will have their own output channel (bridged). But the amp input will be a common source - the subwoofer output of my Fusion head unit. The existing Clarion amp will get a lighter load. It will continue to drive the four cockpit speakers (in parallel pairs) and I'll have it drive the cabin speakers (parallel pairs, too).
So the purpose for this post is to ask a simple question of those of you that have added or replaced amps. Where did you get the amp power? I can read the boat manual, look at the schematics, climb around my boat and in the bilge and figure it all out. But I'm optimistic you guys can spare me all of that. I'd rather not route wires directly to the batteries, so I'm wondering if there's a power distribution box somewhere in the bilge or near the electrical panel that I can access? I have no trouble pulling wire, splicing, etc. I just want to quickly know where I can grab a good power source that is easy to tap into, and also where I can pick up the closest ground.
Thanks,
Steve
I'm adding a new amp to drive both the new subwoofer and the one on the bridge. Each will have their own output channel (bridged). But the amp input will be a common source - the subwoofer output of my Fusion head unit. The existing Clarion amp will get a lighter load. It will continue to drive the four cockpit speakers (in parallel pairs) and I'll have it drive the cabin speakers (parallel pairs, too).
So the purpose for this post is to ask a simple question of those of you that have added or replaced amps. Where did you get the amp power? I can read the boat manual, look at the schematics, climb around my boat and in the bilge and figure it all out. But I'm optimistic you guys can spare me all of that. I'd rather not route wires directly to the batteries, so I'm wondering if there's a power distribution box somewhere in the bilge or near the electrical panel that I can access? I have no trouble pulling wire, splicing, etc. I just want to quickly know where I can grab a good power source that is easy to tap into, and also where I can pick up the closest ground.
Thanks,
Steve
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
- Location
- Baltimore, MD
Sounds like Harley Davidson during the AMF years...
4,741 - 4,760 of 7,395 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
