Is there a dedicated forum for the 40 sedan bridge
40 sedan bridge forum
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3,448 Posts
- Location
- Northern IL.
I do have the charts for the 3116 and according to Frank Webster the fuel burn is constant with the chart based on the RPM. Weight doesn’t matter.
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1,941 Posts
- Location
- Baltimore, MD
Those of you who have replaced original CO detectors (Xintex Fireboy CMD2 or CMD3), what did you use to replace the one under the dinette? The replacement from Xintex (CMD5) doesn’t really fit, width wise, into the cutout for the original one.
View attachment 75910
The one in the state room isn’t a problem as it’s not recessed.
Thanks
View attachment 75910
The one in the state room isn’t a problem as it’s not recessed.
Thanks
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191 Posts
- Location
- Glen Burnie, MD
So scoooer321 and I have a question.
Which one of you smart people have removed and replaced the impeller on the port engine?
I have a a feeling that unless I can find a magical leprechaun who can sneak tween the port side of my boat and the engine that it’s gonna need a pro.
I have the Cummins 8.3 6CTA engines. I think it’s not meant to ever be changed. It’s absurd. I can’t see it. I just assume there is one over there. TIA
Which one of you smart people have removed and replaced the impeller on the port engine?
I have a a feeling that unless I can find a magical leprechaun who can sneak tween the port side of my boat and the engine that it’s gonna need a pro.
I have the Cummins 8.3 6CTA engines. I think it’s not meant to ever be changed. It’s absurd. I can’t see it. I just assume there is one over there. TIA
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5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
I have, several times. My formula is to remove the water hose from top of aftercooler to gear oil cooler and remove air pipe going from aftercooler to engine. Then push throttle bar all the way forward. That gives room to reach in with right arm and do it all with that one right hand. Remove two bolts in the cover and loosen the third bolt so cover drops out of way but doesn't fall out. Then work impeller out and new one in.
It's not easy, but doable this way without having to remove anything else such as aftercoolers and fuel coolers. Although you may need to disconnect fuel cooler hose at seawater pump to push it out of the way. I've done both Sherwood and SMX impellers this way. SMX was easier because it's splined and has an extraction bolt.
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3,156 Posts
- Location
- Western NY (Lake Erie)
I remove the aftercooler and go back there. Bill must have longer arms than me 
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5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
Well I am laying on top of the engine while doing it.I remove the aftercooler and go back there. Bill must have longer arms than me
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2,479 Posts
- Location
- Upper Potomac River
I bought one of these after fighting my Starboard engine impeller. I have V-Drives, so my problem child is the Starboard. I have bench tested this on an old water pump, and I'm here to tell you, you could install this on the engine blindfolded. And thats with a raw water pump that has a key-way, not the new, fancy, SBMar pump with splines.
Jaybeaux
Jaybeaux
CAT 3116 engines.
My total season average this year is 13.7 gph. with running 2300rpm about 60% of the time and 1100 rpm the balance, approx 62 total hours. Last year average was 17.5 gph over 53 hrs. We spent less time running at low rpm and more short trips.
Which one did you order?
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483 Posts
- Location
- Ottawa, Ontario
Very cool find! I've changed mine for the first time this spring - changed the stbd side (easy side) just removing the cover but lining up the key was very troublesome. Took the pump off on the port side and found it much easier. Is there a trick with tool to align the key or is it still a 'feel' process?
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2,479 Posts
- Location
- Upper Potomac River
I emailed the guy my water pump info and he sized it for me.
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2,479 Posts
- Location
- Upper Potomac River
No trick....still feel for the key as you say.
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72 Posts
- Location
- Lake Wylie SC
Gentlemen, looking to move my boat up the intrastate 40mins.
I figured the radar arch for sure will need to be removed....will the flybridge need to be removed? If so, how big of a job is that? Is there one central plug for all electronics, etc.
Thanks
I figured the radar arch for sure will need to be removed....will the flybridge need to be removed? If so, how big of a job is that? Is there one central plug for all electronics, etc.
Thanks
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191 Posts
- Location
- Glen Burnie, MD
Okay..... I did it. I made a simple system for flushing my engines if I am in saltwater for extended periods. I will use it for winterizing and also doing the barnacle buster descaling.I like being organized and the other simple benefit is all of my funnels and hand pumps and fitting adapters can be kept inside for easy locating.
I have a sea flush but wanted to have more gallons available than a 5 gallon bucket which goes REALLY quickly when using their snorkel on the Cummins 6CTA diesels.
walmart tub and caulk $12
Home Depot PVC parts under $30. View attachment 76345
I have a sea flush but wanted to have more gallons available than a 5 gallon bucket which goes REALLY quickly when using their snorkel on the Cummins 6CTA diesels.
walmart tub and caulk $12
Home Depot PVC parts under $30. View attachment 76345
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1,941 Posts
- Location
- Baltimore, MD
I don't know why anyone would want to REscale their engines. But, to each their own...!
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191 Posts
- Location
- Glen Burnie, MD
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128 Posts
- Location
- South Dartmouth MA
If interested i have a 2004 400SB that i am hauling out on the 6th at Bayline Marine in New Bedford. Ill be winterizing it probably the following weekend if you want to come down and pick my brain about any questions. This was my 5th season on her... Just let me know and we can exchange contact info!
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1,941 Posts
- Location
- Baltimore, MD
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128 Posts
- Location
- South Dartmouth MA
Nope. Bridge absolutely would have to come down. Read an article about it somewhere and is was 12k back in like 2005, so today?! At least double if not triple. I just rewired new electronics myself. New dome, camera ETC. Was quoted $26k did it myself, and it was no easy feat. Took about 80hours including cutting new holes with a specific tool in the arch. Plus you are breaking original seals. Expect 40 to 50k said and done, plus if its the time to update electronics if needed and since the work involved there maybe leaks if not done properly. I would rather buy in location needed if not a trustworthy mover/reinstaller.
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191 Posts
- Location
- Glen Burnie, MD
I have read that only the radar arch and windshield need to come off the top. Likely the running gear also.
I think it depends on the route and the trailer.
I'd get firm quotes from a local transport company. They will know the local requirements for your task. That should give you specifics on height etc...
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