Yeah another radio thread -- Stereo Upgrade

Man sorry I'm late to this. Could have saved you a month of looking.
The original amps are Clarion. I added one more, to drive a pair of Bose indoor outdoor speakers mounted in the aft line locker facing out. I always found that if we were floating behind the boat, I had to turn the cockpit up to 11 to be able to hear it. Not good for anyone onboard. I added a wired remote to the coaming locker, so adjustments could be made from the swim ladder. Added another wired remote to the helm, because when it's time for the music to be off, I want total and immediate control of that.
I just use an old school Boss system, with no Bluetooth, no XM, and one Aux input. I have a 4 way box that switches input between TV, external Bluetooth receiver, XM Roady, and an Echo Dot/ship PC. XM receiver and Bluetooth are mounted on a plate that is in the cavity of the CD changer. I further mounted 2 switches on the side of the settee, that control power to the amp for the cockpit, and the amp for the "garage". That way, we can rock away below without disturbing neighbors at a marina or anchorage.
The TV is a Roku TV, so now I have too many possibilities of music sources, where 10 years ago, this was a struggle.
Beach House II stereo layout.png
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Found the amps. Behind the settee back. The are NESA amps -- never heard of them. http://nesavision.com/ Anyone know anything

Have a TD-45 -- 4 channel, 1200 watts. And a TD-80 -- mono 2300 watts, driving the subwoofer. I assume they aren't stock?

Anyway, glad I found them. Need to replace the sub speaker this year. And maybe the 4 in the cockpit. Now I know what I need in terms of power.
Wish I would have seen this thread earlier, I could have told/showed you where the amps are:

 
Man sorry I'm late to this. Could have saved you a month of looking.
The original amps are Clarion. I added one more, to drive a pair of Bose indoor outdoor speakers mounted in the aft line locker facing out. I always found that if we were floating behind the boat, I had to turn the cockpit up to 11 to be able to hear it. Not good for anyone onboard. I added a wired remote to the coaming locker, so adjustments could be made from the swim ladder. Added another wired remote to the helm, because when it's time for the music to be off, I want total and immediate control of that.
I just use an old school Boss system, with no Bluetooth, no XM, and one Aux input. I have a 4 way box that switches input between TV, external Bluetooth receiver, XM Roady, and an Echo Dot/ship PC. XM receiver and Bluetooth are mounted on a plate that is in the cavity of the CD changer. I further mounted 2 switches on the side of the settee, that control power to the amp for the cockpit, and the amp for the "garage". That way, we can rock away below without disturbing neighbors at a marina or anchorage.
The TV is a Roku TV, so now I have too many possibilities of music sources, where 10 years ago, this was a struggle.
View attachment 142492 View attachment 142494 View attachment 142495
Yeah. I saw your post in the 370 thread and decided to take off the sofa back. I was surprised to see the amps replaced. Probably just going to find an ok sub for now to replace the broken one, and then save my pennies for a complete redo next season.
 
Found the amps. Behind the settee back. The are NESA amps -- never heard of them. http://nesavision.com/ Anyone know anything

Have a TD-45 -- 4 channel, 1200 watts. And a TD-80 -- mono 2300 watts, driving the subwoofer. I assume they aren't stock?

Anyway, glad I found them. Need to replace the sub speaker this year. And maybe the 4 in the cockpit. Now I know what I need in terms of power.
Those outputs are an unrealistic "peak" value that one might see right before the magic blue smoke appears. With a quick look, here are a couple things. The 4 chnl is listed at 100W x 4 $ 4 ohm, 150W x 4 @ 2 ohm and 300W x 2 @ 4 ohm bridged. So based on that, its a 600W rms amp if all 4 chnls are loaded to their min. However, I dont see that the amps are tested using the CEA industry standard testing. So even those more realistic wattages may not be useful in comparing to other amps that are CEA compliant. CEA numbers usually come in under what other common dino bench test numbers come in at.

No manual found that lists a suggested circuit protection value or a pic of the onboard fuse values. This gives a little insight into what the amp is really capable of. Its a red flag when they boast high output and have a single 20A fuse on the side.

8ga power cable terminals. The mono states its 1400W rms @ 2 ohm. On a mid to large boat that could require 40' (20' + and 20'-) of power cabling, 8ga is an absolute stretch for me. That would be a no-go for me. So this has me also questioning the stated output. On this flip side, these look like automotive amps. In that case, they did not intend long runs for both the + and -, just the +. Maybe 10-15 ft and the - only being 3 ft.

They are advertised as class-D, so thats a plus v's old school A/B. So if they still work and are noise free, AND, some wanted to go easy on a budget and stretch things out over time in order to upgrade to better gear, rather then spend money all at once. Rock them till next go-round. Get the new upgraded speakers you want now, then lather get an amp that you trust, to deliver the proper wattage. Get a 2 ohm that will pair well with a better mono in the future.
 

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