Wood veneer "skins" for refacing cabinetry?

[tobnpr]

Long time ago I was doing a restaurant renovation and the owner was using some type of expensive wood veneer on the walls. I had never seen this stuff before (or since)- it was REAL wood veneer- but paper thin. Literally came rolled up in a tube like wallpaper...and I was told expensive as hell.

The trim carpenter would use contact cement and roll the veneer out onto sheets of "A" grade plywood to make his own veneer panels. Like I said, this was different than the typical 1/8" or so veneer you'd usually see on a wood panel- paper thin.

I was considering re-facing the cabinetry in my boat with it IF I can source it. Looked all over online but can't find anything like it.

Anyone else seen this stuff before, and know of a source?

 

[Creekwood]

Google the term pressure sensitive wood veneer and you find lots of information.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Mike, did you ever see this thread? It's a very cool thread to read through. Eriksen may be another possible source of info for you. If I remember correctly, he put the veneer (what he actually used, I don't recall) right over the existing laminate.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7258&highlight=veneer


EDIT: Shoot - it looks like all his pictures don't show up anymore. There were some GREAT ones in there.

 

[dgrumm]

You might want to try Formica. That is what Sea Ray uses and it comes ready to glue, no finishing required. I have been told it is about $100 per sheet. I tried the veneer you are referring to last season on one cabinet as a trial and I think the formica will be much easier to work with.

 

[Ryan]

http://www.restorationmarine.com/

 

[douglee25]

I would avoid straight wood veneers that aren't 'paper backed' in some way. If you choose a veneer with no back, the chance for glue bleed through is increased dramatically. Not to mention that straight veneers are very brittle. Even veneers with a paper back tend to bleed through which shows up during the finish stage. The product that you should look into is called Duraback veneers. It's a phenolic backed veneer which is acutally better than a paper backed veneer. It contours very easily around a radius and is somewhat stronger for wear purposes.

Check it out - http://www.tapeease.com/DuraBack%20Phenolic.htm

Just call and ask for samples in any wood species. They are a decent company and have been very helpful.

Doug

 

[tobnpr]

I would avoid straight wood veneers that aren't 'paper backed' in some way. If you choose a veneer with no back, the chance for glue bleed through is increased dramatically. Not to mention that straight veneers are very brittle. Even veneers with a paper back tend to bleed through which shows up during the finish stage. The product that you should look into is called Duraback veneers. It's a phenolic backed veneer which is acutally better than a paper backed veneer. It contours very easily around a radius and is somewhat stronger for wear purposes.

Check it out - http://www.tapeease.com/DuraBack%20Phenolic.htm

Just call and ask for samples in any wood species. They are a decent company and have been very helpful.

Doug

Bingo!

Thanks. Exactly what I'm looking for. I don't want laminate (that's what's on there now) of any sort- if I do it, it's going to be real wood. I had come across this company when trying to source material for the tambour doors. Looks like they've got it all...

 

[ALR1955]

I have been using their veneers for quite a few years. Their products are great to work with and finish up beautifully using Minwax finish products.

 

[LmannyR]

I have been using their veneers for quite a few years. Their products are great to work with and finish up beautifully using Minwax finish products.

Do you have any before and after pics of this stuff? I'm considering the same.



Thanks!!

 

[dpmulvey]

Do you have any before and after pics of this stuff? I'm considering the same.



Thanks!!

+1

I have a delam problem I need to address.

 

[chollyjohn]

I do some woodworking and have used veneers for furniture, tables and cylindral columns. If it were me, for marine use, i would have the veneers applied with pressure vacuum. A cabinet shop could help you with that. Otherwise,, if you want to chance it, I would recommend at least using waterproof glues, marine type if so specified and also paint seal the reverse side to help prevent moisture penetration. Be sure your laminated woods, if any, are also marine type that will not seperate with moisture. I made corner shelfs for my Sea Ray years back with marine plywood, formica and then caulked a pre-milled teak trim along the edges.

It's a start. G'Luck

 

[88dancer300]

Good morning, while we are talking cabin finishes, does anyone know what searay used for a finish on the teak below decks in the cabin on an 80s classic sundancer? Is it just oiled or an actual finish? I have had to sand down a few trim pieces. Thanx, didnt mean to steal the thread. Dave

 

[Dasch Boat]

I don't know what SR recomended for this and I bought my 88 WE new. but I used Old English almond oil, once a season is all you should need. The areas that get a lot of sun exposure like the areas just inside the cabin entrance will need more treatments.

 

[oceanpearl]

+1

I have a delam problem I need to address.

Had a delam issue on the cherry vitricor. The link below got me the right product to repair same.
Good luck.
http://www.nuvacor.com/

 

[ALR1955]

I'll put the pictures on the "List of 390SDSF modifications" thread when I get done with my headliner project.