Winterizing While On Water

[Pepper2482]

I have a 30' 1987 Sea Ray Sundancer that I have recently purchased. Its equipped with Twin Mercruiser Alpha One 260/V8's Thunderbolt Ignition with Alpha One Gen One Drives.. Have always done my own winterizing with previous boats but the boat is to wide and big to trailer. The boat has Recently been completely redone and in great shape. Has always been on the water and never trailered. So is anyone Familiar with winterizing while on the water our marina has a bubble system so the water around the boats do not freeze. I know I have to of course pull all the drain plugs and I believe I have 1 on each side of the block and 1 on each manifold. The only thing that the previous owner disconnected was the water inlet hose from stern drive and zip tied them up to the risers after he has drained and poured his A/F off the T housing so A/F gets to the drives. I doesn't make sense to me because basically I ask my self where is the A/F going to end up? Back in the lake of course... I Know that I am going to have to fill the block up as well as the manifolds. Also curious what to do with the AC Unit blow it out run a gallon of A/F threw the outlet and when i think its gone threw shut the seacocks off. Im not real familiar with these ancient engines but they run like a top any advice would be great. Im a strong believer in A/F and I know that air does not freeze but Im always on the water and like to keep as much corrosion away as possible. Sad to say another great season has come to an end Happy boaters to all may next year come sooner.

Jon

 

[Pepper2482]

No one out there winterizes on the water?

 

[gg51p]

Nope, bilge heater and leave the heat on 55. But alittle warmer here and use the boat year round.

 

[DustinL]

Yes you can drain the block and just install a bilge heater and the engine room will be fine. Just shut off all seacocks and put a thermostat controlled heater downstairs and call it a day, well check on the boat periodically. I personally don't run my heat/AC units if I am not present when it is below freezing. I have seen them freeze up and cause issues before. Your outdrives should be fine in the water with the bubble system. If you want to put antifreeze in the blocks it sure won't hurt anything. Best of luck I know it gets cold up there.

 

[andyr]

I winterize while in the water. Drain block, remember to poke drain hole, do
one side at a time. Put plugs back in proper holes. There is another hole the
plug will screw into near the drain. Drain manifolds. Remove hose attached to
water pump, let a slug of water out and reattach. Remove other end of water
pump hose at thermostat. Pour water into water pump hose until it comes out
thermostat housing. When the boat is out of the water, I disconnect the hose at
the power steering cooler and let the water out. Let water out of the inlet
hose on other engine. I usually pour some antifreeze in the inlet hose to get
some in the drive. It is really not necessary. With the drive down, the water
will drain out after awhile.

With the boat in the water it wouldn't seem to me to do any good putting
antifreeze in the inlet hose. It won't get into the drive. It will only fill
to the water line of the lake. I don't like leaving the inlet hose disconnected
with wire ties holding above water level. It is usually only a couple inches
above water level. If the boat sits a little lower in the water due to snow,
water in the bilge, or if the tie breaks or hose slips out due to rocking and
storm - your boat sinks. I suppose someone is thinking by leaving it disconnect
no water will find its way to the engine. But with the engine filled with
antifreeze, water is not likely to enter the engine plus the engine is above
water level. It would have to be a surge. Generally a drive is okay in the
water as long as the water is not frozen.


"Do you do this same process when boat is winterized on the water. Probably be
the same process for block and manifolds but what about the drives in my case
previous owner pulled inlet water hose to stern drive empties all water in hoses
then attached hose back together poured gallon A/F from T house that goes to
drive then pulled inlet hose back off zip tied to risers to keep above water
line. Im curious how the A/F just doesn't dump back right in to lake leaving
drives and lower unit lines not winterized. I have twin mercrusier 260s alpha
one gen 1 drives Any advice Thanks also the marina that i keep my boat at has a
bubble system so water never freezes where all the boats are docked."

 

[EZCampin]

86 Sundancer 300 w/twin 260's in Nashville, TN area and first year with boat in water over winter. I just placed a new 750W Boatsafe heater in bilge area and I plan to "partially" drain blocks and back fill with high quality anti freeze. Is this sufficient in ya'lls opinion for my area? Yes I also plan to air purge other systems like heat/air, generator, etc... Also does anyone use a thermostatically controlled cabin space heater for whatever / general protection?

 

[rcknecht]

I winterize on the water... I drain the manifolds and attach the my 5 gallon jug hose to pipe fittings that I installed between my raw water inlets and strainers... I run the the engines with the sea cocks closed, until my antifreeze is used up... Then I shop vac out the water/anitfreeze in the strainers. I also shop vac the bilge.... I usually poor antifreeze in in the bilge.

I blow out the AC and potable water with my compressor.

On older boats, if you have packing on your shafts, I would make sure your bilge pumps are working and your batter changer is working...