Winterizing the Air-conditioning System

brewster16

Well-Known Member
Aug 9, 2009
1,452
Long Beach Island, N.J.
Boat Info
'07 44 Sundancer
Engines
Twin Cummins QSC 8.3
My boat is wet slipped for winter, so reverse pumping from outside is NOT an option.

The Problem: Every year I have no problem changing oil and "pink" winterizing all systems... EXCEPT the air-conditioning system. For me it's always the problem of losing prime on the pump that pushes pink through the 3 compressors on my boat.

Talk to me people.....
 
My boat is wet slipped for winter, so reverse pumping from outside is NOT an option.

The Problem: Every year I have no problem changing oil and "pink" winterizing all systems... EXCEPT the air-conditioning system. For me it's always the problem of losing prime on the pump that pushes pink through the 3 compressors on my boat.

Talk to me people.....
I started reverse pumping a few years ago and its by far the easiest way. Can you access the through hull outlet from inside the hull and perhaps remove the hose and pump from inside the boat?

If not I have seen people drill and tap the strainer cap and put a flush fitting on the top.

But what I did a while back was put together a flexible hose attached to a ABS dishwasher adapter and then a rubber pipe adapter to that that fit in the opening of the strainer with the cap off (you take the hose clamp off and push it into the strainer). It spilled and leaked the antifreeze a bit, but it worked enough to just turn on the AC while I refilled the hose with a funnel. The parts I used were something like this:

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220px-Kitchen_Funnel.jpg
 
Reverse pumping through the hull discharge is VERY easy with a drill pump or bilge pump/bucket set up. Short of not being able to get to a finger pier or side tie, I've had success with the Sea Flush "tool" as you can put the snorkle on it and then fill the snorkle thereby generating some suction head. Don't you just love boating! On my new boat, I have the strainer lids that are threaded. Previous owner bought/built lids with 3/4" hose thread adapters on top. I bought a 10 gallon trash can and put a bulkhead fitting in the bottom and have about 10 feet of 3/4" clear tubing.
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I have been using the Sea Flush funnel and snorkel, it's worked well. Close the seacock, open strainer, insert Sea Flush, fill bucket with antifreeze, place snorkel in the antifreeze, run the A/C and watch for the pink. Search for it on Youtube and you will find lots of videos showing how to use it.
 

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My boat is wet slipped for winter, so reverse pumping from outside is NOT an option.

The Problem: Every year I have no problem changing oil and "pink" winterizing all systems... EXCEPT the air-conditioning system. For me it's always the problem of losing prime on the pump that pushes pink through the 3 compressors on my boat.

Talk to me people.....
I use this for gen and ac. Screws right into strainer, bucket up high with hose attached. takes about 5 mins total for AC and Gen.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C04HAN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
My boat is wet slipped for winter, so reverse pumping from outside is NOT an option.

The Problem: Every year I have no problem changing oil and "pink" winterizing all systems... EXCEPT the air-conditioning system. For me it's always the problem of losing prime on the pump that pushes pink through the 3 compressors on my boat.

Talk to me people.....

We installed Groco flush adapters in the hose just after the strainers, so that makes things slightly easier. OTOH, Trac (I think) sells an adapter that temporarily replaces the lid on Groco strainers. (Edit: Ah. See post #5, while I was typing.)

Then we just use a battery operated transfer pump (Milwaukee, in our case) to pump pink through the system. No particular priming issues. (This is similar to fresh-water flushing the system with pressure water from dockside.)

We CAN turn on the AC pump too (by activating one of the ACs) to augment flow, but the transfer pump will push pink through the system easily enough.

-Chris
 
The trick, as you probably know, is to keep the strainer full. There's multiple ways to do this - from a new strainer cap that has a garden hose fitting on it to "figuring it out yourself" like Creekwood did and all of the other ways the others mentioned. Whatever works, works!

The other way to do it as Creek eluded to is to pump antifreeze backwards. You can do this with something as simple as a handpump that is stuck into a gallon of antifreeze. Stick the other end of the pump's hose right into the thru-hull fitting and pump till you see pink dropping out (I assume you're on the hard?) onto the ground. Start at the furthest one away. When you go to the next one, you will notice pink coming out right away - then probably some clear water and then pink again. When you're all done, go back to the first one and sacrifice one more gallon to the winterizing gods and do that first one once more.

In the end, there's no one best way - do whatever way is the most convenient for you.
 
I use a shop vac to suck the pink through my AC system, simple and quick, just keep the strainer full.
 
I use a shop vac to suck the pink through my AC system, simple and quick, just keep the strainer full.
If you do this twice, you can use virtually no antifreeze. Close the seacock and open the strainer. Use the vacuum to suck out the water on each 'exit' port. That gets most of the water out of the system. Put the adapter cap on the strainer and connect to antifreeze source (bucket, funnel, whatever). Fill antifreeze source. Empty vacuum so you're starting with a clean container, then suck antifreeze though each HVAC unit again. You'll have nearly all your antifreeze in the vacuum, with just enough left in the system to take care of any "low spots" where liquid might accumulate.
 
I stopped using antifreeze several years ago. I made strainer caps with garden hose adapters (I used to suck pink through them) but now I use this.

https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sp...rizing+air+,aps,272&sr=8-17&wIndexMainSlot=28

I close the seacock, vacuum out the strainer basket, install the strainer top with adapter and tighten it down. Then I hook the air adapter up to the strainer and then to my small air compressor. Open the air valve and it pushes everything out the side. That's it. No fuss. No mess.

I do the same thing with the water system. Drain the system with the pump as far as it can go. Bypass and drain the water heater. Hook up the same air fitting to the exterior water connection. Blow the lines out. No antifreeze needed. Engines same thing. Remove a couple hoses, a couple plugs, vacuum strainers, blow strainers to remove any water in the lines, etc. Done.
 
I also stay in the water over winter. I have a tee before the pump for flushing purposes. I use that with an air line and just blow it out, no anti freeze. I also blow air through the through hull and close it while the air is flowing.

I also let all of the strainers drain into the bilge and vac it out when done.
 

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