winterizing fuel injectors?

[streaga51]

Is there an additional step to winterize the injectors? Talked to a MM he sail that he runs an additional fuel conditioner thru the injectors some how to lubricate them. The fuel in my tanks have already been treated with sta-bil. I don't see why running that thru the injectors will do.

Any input appreciated.

 

[Lazy Daze]

No worries. You're good to go with the Stabil.

 

[carterchapman]

Are you sure that your dealer was not talking about fogging the engine. Per mercruiser, you are to run a mixture of fuel, 2 cycle engine oil and fuel stabilizer through the engine for 5 minutes at 1300 RPM on an MPI engine. (I can give the exact ratios if you need them) There is an alternate procedure of using the spin on fuel filter to do this, if you can't hook up remote tanks. Unfortunately with mine, I have the latest and greatest cool fuel system with no spin on water separating filter, so I have to use a remote tank.

On another subject, I took all the alcohol off the boat yesterday when it came out of the water, and I started transforming it to urine this evening. I can't believe how hard it is to type now. I swear I have had to use the backspace key about every other word, sometimes every word. Speaking of which, my margarita mix and tequilia are calling....cheers!

Yea, but when are you well enough to go back to work! Slacker!

Just kidding - hope you are back flying soon.

 

[gnealon]

Per mercruiser, you are to run a mixture of fuel, 2 cycle engine oil and fuel stabilizer through the engine for 5 minutes at 1300 RPM on an MPI engine.

Hey Scott, I am up to the fogging part of my winterization and have a question about it. If you wouldn't mind...

I am not sure if I have the cool fuel system or not. My plan was to just dump out half the fuel in the fuel filter... fill w/ 2 cycle engine oil and let it run. Then change the filter. I'm just not sure how long to let it run. I want to make sure it gets into the cylinders etc. but i don't want to run it too long where it dilutes the mixture. I was even thinking about just killing the fuel supply and letting it just run off of what's in the filter?!?! Any ideas? Thx for the help.

 

[gnealon]

Well, according to the clymer manual, it states to take 2 oz. of 2 cycle oil and mix it thoroughly with the fresh fuel. Then use that to fill the fuel filter (after having dumped and inspected the old fuel), and re-attach it to the engine. Then they have you disconnect the fuel intake, and run the engine until it dies. So I stand corrected, go ahead and run the fuel out of the system (at least according to Clymer shop manual).

Scott - I just typed a long msg back to you and my browser crashed! :smt013

Basically - sorry to confuse things... i think i do have the cool fuel system. (been searching on it). I didn't think i had it since I couldn't believe that little expensive fuel filter was a water separator as well?!?! Anyways... i have that black box filter + pump on the lower port side of my engines. Is that it?

I'm sure the spin on filter method and 2 cycle into filter method are the same regarding how long to let it run. I really appreciate you looking that up for me. Instead of disconnecting the fuel line, i wonder if I can just manually turn the solenoid that cuts fuel in case of a fire. Maybe I'll give that a shot.

I'm almost done winterizing my boat. First time ever. I'm pretty sure I can cut my time in half next year. I think i ran to the store 10 times needing fittings... more oil... etc. HAHA

Thanks again. :thumbsup:

 

[Lazy Daze]

Let it run for 4 to 5 minutes at a slightly elevated RPM and then shut the engine off. Don't worry about running it out of fuel. Not that it would be bad to do that, just not necessary.

Yes, you have a Cool Fuel module. All the EFI's/MPI's do (maybe some of the very, very early EFI's don't). But you definitely do.

If you have a spin-on filter then, as you mentioned, it's inside the black, plastic box by the port engine mount. Don't forget the blue plug on the backside of that - or take the hose off if you can't get to the plug -- either at the module or the T-stat (and then bend the hose down to drain the water).

 

[gnealon]

Let it run for 4 to 5 minutes at a slightly elevated RPM and then shut the engine off. Don't worry about running it out of fuel. Not that it would be bad to do that, just not necessary.

Yes, you have a Cool Fuel module. All the EFI's/MPI's do (maybe some of the very, very early EFI's don't). But you definitely do.

If you have a spin-on filter then, as you mentioned, it's inside the black, plastic box by the port engine mount. Don't forget the blue plug on the backside of that - or take the hose off if you can't get to the plug -- either at the module or the T-stat (and then bend the hose down to drain the water).

Dennis - thanks a lot. I thought maybe i did have it. I know about that blue plug behind the module... i wonder how many people miss that :wow: Thank you though!

I opened that fuel module in the middle of the season to see how dirty the filter was. I don't remember any type of spin on filter. I believe it was a small canister that just pulled out. I just bought 2 new ones at 55 bucks a piece :wow:

 

[gnealon]

What Dennis said.

I am not sure how well adding the oil to the fuel cannister (if you have the latest and greatest cool fuel system) would work. I've always found it easier to hook up a remote tank.

Scott - aren't you always the one making comments on skinning cats? haha As i mentioned this is my first time winterizing a boat. I did a TON of reading and asking people for advice. I think the most challenging part was all the different points of view. So many different ways to accomplish the same thing. :smt101

Thanks for the help!

 

[gnealon]

You have the latest and greatest!!! Congrats, now you to are blessed with the expense of the mighty cannister, rather than the meagerly priced spin on filter!

HA!! I was expecting those bad boys to be about 15 bucks a pop. 55 bucks each!!! DAMN!

 

[Lazy Daze]

I guess since the OP had never even responded to the original question, he (she) won't mind if we keep hi-jacking:grin:

Nealon: Just to be sure (as I'm confused as to what you actually have and my post may not have been entirely clear):

Spin-on filter: Looks like an oil filter (metal can). Is inside a black plastic box (sort of a flimsy box) on the bottom, starboard side of the engine (sometimes this box never gets put back on, so it may not be there). With a spin-on, you will have a separate cool fuel module by the port side engine mount.

Cartridge filter: Is in the same location (starboard) as the spin-on, but it is a much more solid black housing with (3) bolts holding the cap on. The cool fuel module is contained inside the box, along with the cartridge filter.

And, yes, the cartridge filter is amazingly expensive! :smt101:smt013

Just for reference, we still pour a few ounces of 2-cycle right into the cartridge-style filter for fogging.


Scott: That's a pretty nifty set-up you got going!. Do you have the boat's fuel lines set-up with a "T" and two Shut-offs, or do you just unscrew things?

 

[gnealon]

I guess since the OP had never even responded to the original question, he (she) won't mind if we keep hi-jacking:grin:

Nealon: Just to be sure (as I'm confused as to what you actually have and my post may not have been entirely clear):

Spin-on filter: Looks like an oil filter (metal can). Is inside a black plastic box (sort of a flimsy box) on the bottom, starboard side of the engine (sometimes this box never gets put back on, so it may not be there). With a spin-on, you will have a separate cool fuel module by the port side engine mount.

Cartridge filter: Is in the same location (starboard) as the spin-on, but it is a much more solid black housing with (3) bolts holding the cap on. The cool fuel module is contained inside the box, along with the cartridge filter.

And, yes, the cartridge filter is amazingly expensive! :smt101:smt013

Just for reference, we still pour a few ounces of 2-cycle right into the cartridge-style filter for fogging.


Scott: That's a pretty nifty set-up you got going!. Do you have the boat's fuel lines set-up with a "T" and two Shut-offs, or do you just unscrew things?

Dennis - sorry if I confused you. Yes I have the cartridge style filter w/ the 3 bolts. Thank you for the explanation, i had no idea there were 2 styles.

Do you change that filter every year? I assume after you fog? I was going to change them for good measure anyhow.

thanks again.

p.s. yea i figured the OP wouldn't mind since he (she) never came back :grin:

 

[carterchapman]

Let it run for 4 to 5 minutes at a slightly elevated RPM and then shut the engine off. Don't worry about running it out of fuel. Not that it would be bad to do that, just not necessary.

Yes, you have a Cool Fuel module. All the EFI's/MPI's do (maybe some of the very, very early EFI's don't). But you definitely do.

If you have a spin-on filter then, as you mentioned, it's inside the black, plastic box by the port engine mount. Don't forget the blue plug on the backside of that - or take the hose off if you can't get to the plug -- either at the module or the T-stat (and then bend the hose down to drain the water).

Dennis,

On the 340s, it appears they didn't go to cool fuel modules till the '06 models. Windjammer's '06 has them, but my '05 has the automotive style inline filters with the spin on water separator filters... I think the EFI 8.1s came out in mid-01 or so...

 

[Lazy Daze]

Dennis,

On the 340s, it appears they didn't go to cool fuel modules till the '06 models. Windjammer's '06 has them, but my '05 has the automotive style inline filters with the spin on water separator filters... I think the EFI 8.1s came out in mid-01 or so...

Carter, you have the separate Cool Fuel Module, right?

But, yes, around the '01 model year the 8.1's came out to replace the 454MAG and 502. And you're also correct on when the "improved" module started being used. Around the '05/'06 model year Merc started using the combined water separator/cool fuel thingy. Some '05's had it - just depended on which plant the specific boat model came out of and, more importantly, which engine the boat used. Basically, SR used up their old stock of engines (with canister filter) before using the new ones.

Scott: Do you end up spilling much fuel that way? Not that spilling is bad - just curious.

Nealon: Yes, change once a year. Although, Merc has recommended changing 3 times - due to E10 issues (I'm pretty sure they're just covering their hides by giving that recommendation). I use an E10-fighting additive and then just keep an extra filter on board. I only do it once a year.

 

[carterchapman]

Dennis,

I didn't think I do...my fuel lines run from the solenoids down along the port side of each engine, the GM style inline filter is located halfway down the run on the stringers, then about a foot later the lines run into the spin on filters. I haven't looked past that - maybe there is a cool fuel unit there, but I thought the electric pump was next inline...

It's tough for a 62 year old to work in that area of the bilge!! Can't wait to do my impellers next year - maybe Hamton will be back in training at Delta then and miss working on his boat...

 

[Lazy Daze]

Dennis,

I didn't think I do...my fuel lines run from the solenoids down along the port side of each engine, the GM style inline filter is located halfway down the run on the stringers, then about a foot later the lines run into the spin on filters. I haven't looked past that - maybe there is a cool fuel unit there, but I thought the electric pump was next inline...

It's tough for a 62 year old to work in that area of the bilge!! Can't wait to do my impellers next year - maybe Hamton will be back in training at Delta then and miss working on his boat...

When you get a chance, look for something like this: http://www.perfprotech.com/store/assembly/COOL-FUEL-SYSTEM,7460-50.aspx The two housing pieces (#2, #25) are black plastic. Sorry, that's best picture I could quickly scrounge up. There will be a black, rubber, water hose connected on both sides of the housing. Should be by your port engine mount... tucked nicely away in an inconvenient spot:smt101 I'm not sure why you wouldn't have it, but then again, weirder things have happened:huh:

No space to work in a 340? Yeah, I was enjoying that thread you guys had going a few weeks back about that. 'Course, the only reason I was "enjoying" it is because I don't have a 340!:smt001

 

[Lazy Daze]

Not a drop. I hold a rag around the fitting when I unscrew it from the cool fuel unit, and it catches anything that might leak out. The plug then seals the line comming from the tank, and even when it is uncapped, unless you point it down towards the hull, it does not leak fuel.

Hmmmm. Interesting. I know it's the way Merc recommends, but I've never done it that way. Thanks!

Carter: A "mirror on a stick" has come to my rescue many times....

 

[gnealon]

Carter: A "mirror on a stick" has come to my rescue many times....

Me too!!! Especially when i was changing the Oil sender :smt013 Damn that thing is tucked away!

 

[Sparkey600]

Were is the fuel pump, Is it in the tank or in black box on motor. Must be in black box to suck gas from can. No gas comes from line disconnect