Winterize 5.0L raw water cooled, no seawater pump, manual single point

Arminius

Well-Known Member
Oct 30, 2019
1,068
Seattle
Boat Info
Bowrider 200 Select, 2003
Engines
5.0L MPI, 260 hp w/Alpha 1 Drive
2003 Select 200: Just opening everything up ought to do it but there is one oddity. I have blue circular handle, blue plug on thermo housing, blue plug on distribution housing at low point. No drains on manifolds or sides of block. I have been warned and plumbing schematic is complicated. The instructions for the "Manual, Single Point Drain System ["boat in water" although mine is out] say to pull the blue plug on thermo housing w/i 30 seconds of turning blue handle to properly vent system. Well, I'll do that although the instruction is not repeated in the section: "Boat out of water." The penalty for getting this wrong is severe.
 
Exactly the reason the single point is not a good system. Personally I'd get rid of all of it. Espos had some info on how he drains that system with some modifications.
 
There ARE drains on the block and manifold - they are quick disconnect fittings that route to the water distribution manifold. The thread you linked to had some advice in it that I had given another member about this, which would apply here, as well.

But take note to the intent of the other thread - that simply doing the "quick drain" thing may not drain all of the water out.

The reason for "venting" is so you don't siphon the entire lake into your boat. I remove the t-stat blue plug when on the trailer, as well - just for good measure to make draining better. When you've checked/cleared the block and manifold, along with the small hoses and WDM, then you can simply backfill the entire system through the hoses on the t-stat housing.

Are you up to speed on the proper way to fog an MPI engine? It's more about the injectors than it is traditional "fogging".
 
Thank you for the help and future reading.

The short of it is I turned the blue circular handle and all the water drained out. I then removed the T-stat plug and the distribution housing plug but only a few additional drops of water came out.

The long of it is my friend had told me he puts muffs on his outdrive and a "Y" on the hose leading to a tub of antifreeze. This MPI engine runs at 170 and it was nearly there when I switched the Y over to suck down 2 gallons of antifreeze. Temp was nearly up to 180 when the tub was empty and I shut it off. All my yellow antifreeze had come out exhaust and prop hub. Unfortunately, the water that came out the bilge when I turned the blue handle was perfectly clear. Maybe this trick would work if you removed the T-stat. He did mention that it never freezes down by the seawater docks where he keeps his boat.
 
"I turned the blue circular handle and all the water drained out." Take note to what we talked about as you may not have gotten it all. Plus, 2 gallons is not enough - I use about 4+ gallons between the block, manifolds and intake water hose.

The "bucket method" can be hit or miss - nothing guaranteed. If you FULLY drain and remove the t-stat, then it works fine. Or just do as I mentioned above.

Yellow? Did you use automotive AF? Make sure you collect it in the Spring and take it to a local service station that will recycle it. Typically we use the pink, non-tox stuff.

Remem
 
Winterized my boat as an exercise and as a precaution. It will probably end up in my heated garage where the next project will be the replacement of the plugs. I read about those tubes from the block and the author sure did not make working on them sound attractive. Thanks.

This has been my first season with the 2003 20' bowrider with 2' built in swim platform and 5.0L MPI and it has been good. There were some changes from the 220 hp 2-stroke outboard on a very light Hydrostream hull I last had but, aside from launching and retrieving, they were appreciated. I guess I'm bucking the trend to outboards. We had the Searay out skiing last week on a perfectly flat lake. It cruised effortlessly at 50-51 mph with all that weight making the ride smooth. A bit more trim would bring the revs up past 5000 causing the overspeed horn to honk and I'd trim it down a tad and it would keep running like a locomotive. The 19" High Five prop is just right. Next year.
 
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