Winter cover

Crushin It

Well-Known Member
GOLD Sponsor
Oct 10, 2006
1,716
Safe Harbor Marina Kent Island, MD
Boat Info
2006 44 DA
QSC 8.3s
Engines
Cummins QSC 8.3s 500HO
Has anyone purchased an aftermarket winter cover for your 300?? Would be interested to know if most peope shrinkwrap or have a winter cover for winter storage???? If you have an aftermarket cover who made it for you?
 
V.S. We are fortunate to have a marina that can store indoors. If I would have to store outside, I would consider the white shrink wrap. That stuff seems to stand up to ice and snow. A buddy had one made for his 250DA made out of heavy canvas from a local canvas shop, and that baby weighs a ton! But it has held up well over the last 3 years.
 
I have a morring or cock-pit cover for my boat.It covers the windshield and is made of heavy material. Cost about $1,000 to custom make for boat.Have it for 3 years no sign of wearing.
DSC02381.jpg
 
I shrinkwrap

My marina includes it in their winterization storage costs. It is very nice. We powerwash topsides and bottom and then shrinkwrap the whole thing. Makes spring cleanup very easy.
 
villain style said:
Has anyone purchased an aftermarket winter cover for your 300?? Would be interested to know if most peope shrinkwrap or have a winter cover for winter storage???? If you have an aftermarket cover who made it for you?

I think it all depends on your location.

In New England, 2nd only to freezing temperatures, the biggest concern is snow and snow load possibly colapsing the cover.
After using plastic blue tarps over wooden and pvc frames for years, and having to clean the snow off of them after every storm, with a broken rib for my troubles, we resigned ourselves to shrinkwrap 3 or 4 years ago. Never regreted it. Snow slides off of the shrinkwrap because of its smooth texture and tightness, whereas snow clings to the reinforced tarp, and no matter how hard you try, you just aren't going to get it as tight.
 
Thanks Steve. When shrink wrapping would I have to build a support frame and also confirm that I would take down the bimini top??/
Thanks,

Mark
 
Mark,

You absolutely have to build a frame, as there is a "spine" running over the top of the boat at its highest point, running from bow to stern, and it is supported with poles, and tied from side to side with non stretching heavy duty twine.
Most of the woodwork is nothing more than strapping, fastened with galvi sheet rock screws.

And yes, you also remove any canvas or canvas supports.
Naturally, the radar arch stays, and the wrap goes over it.

Very important is to have vents near the top of the shrinkwrap, for air circulation.
These are fabricated from the same plastic, and look like upside down scoops, so that water cannot leak into the boat.

The most important thing is air circulation, and de humidifier buckets in the cabin, so no mildew gets a chance.
Any upholstery that is not removed must be stood on its side, and all cabinet doors, refers, etc. are to be left wide open.
No nooks and crannies...
Nothing worse than a musty smelling boat from not being stored properly.
My last boat was traded at 9 years old, and the surveyor couldn't believe the condition of the cabin, as alot of boats when they get that age, show signs of mildew.
In our area, we can get the boat shrinkwrapped for between $10 & $15 per foot.
 

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