Windshield vent motor

On mine it was the limiter that went. Prevents you from applying too much torque up or down. Disconnected it and it works like new.
I just have to be careful closing so as not to implode the glass.
 
I thought about the limit switch and will cut the wire to see if the motor works, but still will order the new part. Cain't imagine what the expense and trouble would be if the glass breaks. "Ray 306" was right: the old model # is S12-09A4-06 (first character is "S" not "5"). The new part # is
M1-D012-0025-A06. $254.40 is Warner Electric's list, but you have to purchase from one of their distributors and the price is right at $200.
 
I have a 98 290 da and it did the same thing. I took it off and took it apart, those acuators have built in limits on both the open and close side which if reached will cut the power to them. There is a set of gears at the bottom after you open it up you can turn by hand to get it off limit. When you re install it make sure your brackets that hold it are secure. As a precaution I just do not open my window to full open or close it untill the motor draws down.
Pumy
 
I boat in salt water and dock close to a power plant, lots of salt and crud cause the vent to nearly cement closed at times. A little coaxing and WD40 gets things working, then clean that ram and gasket when things are open.

A few years ago, I'd spend days in blowing rain and salt spray in the Bahamas. I had to redo the butt connectiors as they went to contact heavan.
 
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Yes, I just ordered it from my Sea Ray dealer this year because of a leak. It was expensive! But, no more leak now.

I've had decent luck patching windscreen gaskets etc. with black RTV .... FWIW
 
Chad,

Thanks for the tip. Next time I might be reluctant to shell out for that gasket (and the labor to install it).

James
 
I guess I'm now a member of the Vent Motor Problem Club.

I was hoping for the easiest fix of the problem being the switch, but the switch tests out fine. I'm not looking forward to reaching up there to mess with the motor. Too bad it didn't fail in the open position...
 
Let me know if you have any problem. The replacement I installed works perfectly. I put anti-seize on the bolt on the front near the window-the one that gets all the salt-water.
 
thanks. I was really suspecting the switch because it was a slow death. The motor started to hesitate going up from any position, but went down smoothly. It eventually stopped going up at all. Nothing happens when the switch is pressed up, but it still clicks if I push down.
 
I'm glad I read this, I have a friend with a 98 33 EC and his vent motor just went south. I think I will go try some of these methods on it.
 
Has anyone replaced the motor assembly that opens the windshield vent? Mine just quit working and it appears that it is getting power when the dashboard switch is depressed. Wires all look OK. Guess it's one of many thing that don't work forever. Anyone know the manufacturer or where I can get the part?

1998 450DA
I have 95 Sea Ray, and mine never worked. It was getting power, but not moving. I took it off and unscrewed the shaft and it worked! The limit switch was causing the problem. The window was still sealing fine, so I added a couple of washers to the shaft, and it is working again. Otherwise I was going to order a new window seal
 
Great call on using WD-40 to unstick the vent. Worked like a charm, saved me a bunch of time and money!
 
Another place to check for good pricing for replacement actuators is: http://www.progressiveautomations.com/
Below is info for the replacement we bought for our 340 for $129.34 which works like a champ but we too never open it fully...just in case:)

Products
------------------------------------------------------
1 x Mini Linear Actuator (Stroke Size 4", Force 15 Lbs, Speed 1.18"/sec) (PA-14-4-15) = $108.99
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $108.99
United Parcel Service (UPS Standard, EDD: November 27, 2012): $20.35
Total: $129.34
 
I replaced mine about five years ago and bought it from McMaster Carr, it is the same exact thing as OEM and it even came with a quick disconnect plug kit, I think it was around $200.00
Dave
 
I replaced mine about five years ago and bought it from McMaster Carr, it is the same exact thing as OEM and it even came with a quick disconnect plug kit, I think it was around $200.00
Dave
my mechanic rebuilt mine for less than $50.
John

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