Windlass "main" switch question

Discussion in 'General Maintenance/Repair Questions' started by Capt.Will, Mar 26, 2020.

  1. Capt.Will

    Capt.Will Member

    42
    Aug 15, 2016
    Lake St. Clair
    1997 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer
    7.4 MPI Mercruiser Inboards
    Vessel: 1997 330DA

    Issue/question: How exactly is this switch suppose to work?

    Currently, the switch on the right "control/up and down" works. It operates the windlass without hesitation.

    The "main" switch currently does not light up at all in either position and my bow (foot) controls are not responding.

    According to FP Marine this switch is a VLD1-3 Carling (ON)/OFF/(ON) double pole momentary rocker switch, independent clear lamp in position #1. SR part # 1733928, 681494 VLD1-3

    I don't understand why is is a momentary on switch. Hopefully someone can explain this to me. Seems like you would want this to be a simple ON/OFF switch.

    C33DF0A0-A563-491B-A45C-11A14F07C889_1_201_a.jpeg
     
  2. bobeast

    bobeast Dance the Tide SILVER Sponsor

    Oct 22, 2017
    Isleton, CA
    2002 310DA
    350 MPI w/V-drives
    The main switch activates a latching solenoid (that's the loud click you hear when you activate it). Since the relay itself is latching, it only requires a momentary switch to toggle it.
     
  3. Capt.Will

    Capt.Will Member

    42
    Aug 15, 2016
    Lake St. Clair
    1997 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer
    7.4 MPI Mercruiser Inboards
    Should that noise be coming from the bow near the windlass motor? So, if I am not hearing that noise then either the switch is bad or something is foul in the bow mechanics, correct?

    Another question: if I push the momentary switch to position #1 (up) will the light on the switch remain on? Or suppose to?
     
  4. bobeast

    bobeast Dance the Tide SILVER Sponsor

    Oct 22, 2017
    Isleton, CA
    2002 310DA
    350 MPI w/V-drives
    When you hit the top of the main switch, you should hear a click and the light should turn on and remain on even after you release the switch. When you then hit the bottom of the switch to disarm the circuit, you should hear another click and the light should go out.

    If you don't hear a click, then the light issue is just telling you that the system did not get fully armed, because the lamp is driven by the output of the solenoid.

    I believe my "arming" solenoid is behind the battery switches on the port side. But I can't say where yours is located. Either way you should hear something when you hit the main switch. There is another solenoid (or two depending on your year's design) up near the windlass. That should click when you activate the up/down switches, but the "click" may get lost in the noise of the windlass motor itself.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020
  5. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    From what you're saying, you can operate the windlass by ONLY using the "up/down" rocker switch? It sounds like your "main" switch has been eliminated from the sequence by someone. You'll want to correct this - the main switch is a safety feature. It could just be that the main switch failed and someone wired around it rather than replacing it.
     
  6. Capt.Will

    Capt.Will Member

    42
    Aug 15, 2016
    Lake St. Clair
    1997 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer
    7.4 MPI Mercruiser Inboards
    All the wiring "appears" to be original and enters into the original SeaRay installed wire connector. I cannot imagine that the wiring is the problem. I have also inspected the wiring in the bow area to the foot switches and windlass motor and nothing appears to show any phuckery.

    I am almost convinced that I should start by replacing the Carling switch first because it seems to be very worn and sticks a little but into the 1 position. What are your guys thoughts on that?

    106BD93A-F88B-43C7-BC8A-0183B9A59962_4_5005_c.jpeg 7EEDDD16-0F30-4603-B942-CEC38B1BDA59_4_5005_c.jpeg 07FF2C01-74A9-4CAC-B7C5-C77EBACCB8EA_4_5005_c.jpeg
     
  7. Creekwood

    Creekwood Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 26, 2009
    Oakville and Georgian Bay, Ontario
    '97 330 Sundancer, Raymarine C80 suite with radar, Mercury 310 Hypalon w/8hp Yammie 2stk
    2X 454 carbs w/ vDrives
    It sounds like the latching solenoid may be stuck on? Or maybe the previous owner hard wired it so that the power is always on? Something ain't right. I had my main switch fail last summer and it would not allow the up/down switch to work at all. I replaced the main switch and now it works perfectly. I did a quick video after it was done. FYI, you can take apart the switch and clean up contacts. Just watch for parts falling out and springs. I kept my old switch and cleaned it up. It works again, but it is now my emergency spare.

     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020
  8. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    It does all look to be factory. Maybe it's switch, like you mentioned, is stuck in the "on" position. But then... why doesn't the blue light up? Burnt out, possibly. Try jumping a ground and 12V+ to the main switch to see if you can get the light to turn on. If it doesn't turn on, it lends credence to the main switch simply being the culprit. If it does turn on, then that means power was interupted somewhere else (someone monkeyed with the wires somewhere else).
     
  9. Capt.Will

    Capt.Will Member

    42
    Aug 15, 2016
    Lake St. Clair
    1997 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer
    7.4 MPI Mercruiser Inboards
    I picked up a new Carling Switch today (VLD1160B). After installing the switch, it did make the selinoid click and now the light on the switch illuminated. But, it still was always on and would not shut off. The bow foot switches still did not operate though.

    I decided to remove the Intellitec Relay/solenoid 01-00055-00 (pictured) and removed the casing to find much grime on the inner cylinder. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Now it is stuck in the off position but still clicking when I operate the Carling switch. It is no good.

    So, I just ordered a new Intellitec switch. As soon as I received and install I will report back.

    In the meantime, if anyone with this same Carling switch configuration is at their boat this weekend (if you could do me favor) and remove your panel and take a couple photos of the wire configuration on the back of the switches for comparison. I am still not convinced that my wiring is correcting being ran. Or if anyone knows of and online wiring diagram for this system that would be helpful as well. Thanks in advance. Will

    IMG_5053.jpg
    IMG_5054.jpg
    IMG_5055.jpg
     
  10. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    Sounds like you're at least making progress. There will be a wiring diagram in your owner's manual - which you can also download from SR's site. If for some reason you can't find your model, pick another model from the same era - the windlass switch wiring will be exactly the same.
     
  11. Capt.Will

    Capt.Will Member

    42
    Aug 15, 2016
    Lake St. Clair
    1997 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer
    7.4 MPI Mercruiser Inboards
    I found this for the 400DA. Nothing in the 330DA manual. Helpful, but does not get specific for the wiring at the Carling switch.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    Look for the main electrical wiring diagram section - that will show the dash area.
     
  13. Creekwood

    Creekwood Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 26, 2009
    Oakville and Georgian Bay, Ontario
    '97 330 Sundancer, Raymarine C80 suite with radar, Mercury 310 Hypalon w/8hp Yammie 2stk
    2X 454 carbs w/ vDrives
    If you can’t find the wiring diagram send me a PM with your email address and I will email you it. Here is a snapshot.
    CCEEB28D-11F6-4726-B650-D59A017212C8.png
     
  14. Capt.Will

    Capt.Will Member

    42
    Aug 15, 2016
    Lake St. Clair
    1997 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer
    7.4 MPI Mercruiser Inboards
    Thank Creekwood. That is very helpful.

    According to that diagram, my current wiring at the Carling switch is 100% correct. Cannot wait to get that solenoid and hopefully this system works great.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2020 at 8:53 AM

Share This Page

Show Sidebar