Windlass install on a SunDeck

Blueone

Well-Known Member
SILVER Sponsor
Jan 24, 2007
13,824
Lake Erie, Ohio
Boat Info
2004 420 Sundancer
Engines
Cummins 6CTA 450's
I am seriously considering installing a windlass on my 2010 SunDeck. It was an option at the time so I will try to keep it as close to the factory option as possible.

I am looking for feedback from anyone who has the option on a 24' to 30' Sundeck. What are the pros and cons?

I am also interested how the tonneau cover is configured around the area.

Any other feedback would be appreciated
 
Large cables. Breakers. Holes in the deck. Etc, etc, etc?......

Other than the "WOW" factor, what do you gain?
 
Crickets...all I hear is crickets.... It's not like I am trying to install a unicorn on the bow....someone must have seen one or have one ?
 
A windlass was an option on the 290/300 sundeck. I believe the hatch and ladder was removed and replaced with a fixed/secured hatch. The 290/300 sundeck user manual also has the wiring schematics. This will all be close to the setup you have on your 260. Pros: no manual drop / lift. Cons: no bow ladder when beaching, cost/benefit. Good luck.
I am not sure if this URL will work, but has an example (or simply search for images of a 300 sundeck). http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2010-Sea-Ray-300-Sundeck-102420066
 
A quick search turned up a couple images.
images (1).jpg
images.jpg
It looks like you loose the boarding ladder with the windlass. Do you climb over the bow much? Kinda kills the accessibility.
 
Yes you lose the hatch and ladder. We never beach ..we always anchor off shore or a cove no matter where we go.... So the bow ladder is never used.... Actually the bow ladder is a pain to get up if not used from a beaching

My issue is I always captain and always pull up the anchor and frankly it sucks and should be an easier process.

I am really interested in what the tonneau cover looks like with the bow roller.... I contacted Great Lakes but nothing back yet

Thanks for the feedback
 
Your model 260SD (is it the "newer" 260SD with the aft facing bench seat?) is different than the one pictured, but it's essentially the same idea. It's been a while since I saw (in person) a 260SD with a windlass, but if I remember correctly, the bow cover had sort of a "pocket" to go over the windlass. Since you're doing the mod yourself, you can simply have the existing bow cover cut and fitted with new material and you can have it done anyway you wanted to. Keep in mind that this is not going to be an inexpensive endeavor - even if you do the work yourself. If someone else does it, you'll probably double your cost. Parts alone (aftermarket) are going to be in the $1,500 - $2,000 category. Maybe a little less, maybe more - depends on exactly what you choose.

This is not going to be an easy install. You're going to have to try and do everything through a small deck plate that you install next to the windlass and the speaker holes. Otherwise, you're talking major surgery. You can do the reinforcing of the anchor hatch and install of the windlass, anchor roller, extra cleat and safety cable by removing the hatch (or atleast repliminary install). But the actual attaching of the hatch back onto the boat, wiring and final attachment is going to be pretty much all by feel. Also, looking only at the picture that Blaster nicely supplied (as I don't remember from memory), it looks like you need to either do some fiberglass/gelcoat work to raise the anchor roller, or create a wedge from starboard or possibly get a new hatch from your Sea Ray dealer - but that will, of course, add even more money.

You're right about the bow ladder - it is, indeed, only meant to be used when beaching the boat. It was never designed for use from the water.

A suggestion that would make things easier and cost $0... teach someone else to drive the boat. Even if it's just while you're pulling up the anchor. You're likely using a fluke anchor right now? Those are very light and the other person could even pull the anchor up. There's no reason one person should be doing everything. My wife and I (before I installed the windlass) would take turns pulling up the anchor (25lb plow and 50' of chain - much more than what you likely have) and maneuvering the boat. Actually, I always let her choose whichever one she wanted - whichever she was in the mood to do. With smaller boats, and a fluke anchor, she usually did the anchor. Besides making boating less stressful, an excellent reason to have someone else comfortable with maneuvering the boat is... what if something would happen to you and you couldn't captain the boat?
 
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As I was going through things on the boat just the day before the op was posted I had my anchor and line pulled out and was wondering if there could be a better way than a bunch of chain and line piled in the hatch so I think it's a great valid question, but I don't have an answer. I am playing with ideas of just a spool, or something to keep the line organized but theres not much room in my anchor hatch once the ladder is folded into it.
I wouldn't want to lose the bow ladder as I find it quite usefull when picking up or dropping people off at various places on our lake. They get thier feet wet but I dont have to plow into the sand, as soon as it touches is as far as I go.
 
"Spool"... On some of my boats (past and present) where they don't have a "user friendly" anchor locker, I do just that. I use one of the orange, electrical cord reels that you can buy at Home Depot for about $5. It takes a tiny bit longer to put the rope out and in, and you have to be careful not to drop the whole thing, but it's been a decent solution for me. I can also only get about 100' of 3/8" rope and about 6' of chain on there, but that's usually sufficient for where I anchor with these smaller boats. Besides, the anchoring that I do with these boats is typically just for a few hours at a time so if we drift a bit it's not a big deal.
 
There is a company named EZ Marine Puller. Not as sexy as a windlass or a unicorn, but a lot cheaper and saves a lot of muscle work.
 
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A suggestion that would make things easier and cost $0... teach someone else to drive the boat. Even if it's just while you're pulling up the anchor. You're likely using a fluke anchor right now? Those are very light and the other person could even pull the anchor up.

Dennis... Most of the time it's just my wife and myself. To teach someone else would cost half my stuff...plus lawyer's fees.
 
A suggestion that would make things easier and cost $0... teach someone else to drive the boat. Even if it's just while you're pulling up the anchor. You're likely using a fluke anchor right now? Those are very light and the other person could even pull the anchor up.

Dennis... Most of the time it's just my wife and myself. To teach someone else would cost half my stuff...plus lawyer's fees.

Nice one! :smt001

I should of been clearer, though. By 'someone else' I just meant someone else who is normally boating with you.
 

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