Windlass bolts sheared off

[mdolesh]

My windlass motor came disconnected from the main unit. I could just lift up the top because the bolts sheared off. How did this happen?? Normal use and nothing that I can think of to cause it. Any ideas on how to fix this? Is it repairable? Thanks!

 

[Creekwood]

That's pretty crazy. The only way they can sheer off like that is if they are over tightened enough to break them. A machine shop or garage can possibly remove the sheered off stainless bolts, but it won't be easy since the body is aluminum and soft and there is likely galvanic corrosion holding the studs in the body.

 

[mdolesh]

I agree...its got me stumped. No other signs of stress anywhere. I haven't attempted to take it apart yet, but is there a topside to these bolts? Or are they formed into the body?

 

[Creekwood]

I agree...its got me stumped. No other signs of stress anywhere. I haven't attempted to take it apart yet, but is there a topside to these bolts? Or are they formed into the body?

They are actually studs that are threaded on both ends, not bolts. One end is threaded into the body. Then there are nuts and washers that are put on from underneath to hold the motor onto the bottom. The broken off studs need to be drilled out and removed.

You will probably find the broken off ends with the nuts attached in your anchor locker . I can see one in one photo still in the motor base. Its a threaded stud with a nyloc nut threaded on

 

[mdolesh]

They are actually studs that are threaded on both ends, not bolts. One end is threaded into the body. Then there are nuts and washers that are put on from underneath to hold the motor onto the bottom. The broken off studs need to be drilled out and removed.

You will probably find the broken off ends with the nuts attached in your anchor locker .

You are right. I just found this schematic. Part 37 is what broke. All 4 of them…how?

 

[Creekwood]

You are right. I just found this schematic. Part 37 is what broke. All 4 of them…how?

Overtightening by whoever last installed that windlass. Maybe Sea Ray themselves.

 

[Little Ducky]

Was someone using your winch to pull up stumps?

With no fiberglass damage this had to be a freaky occurrence.

 

[mdolesh]

I just spoke with Paul at Quick for about 15-20 min. My windlass is a Quick Aleph AL3 Vertical, common on a lot of Sea Rays. He was awesome and explained what happened, and that he's seen it numerous times before. He even went to Sea Ray back around 2013/14 (about the time when my boat was being built) and helped them with their installation process. The problem is that the bolts/studs are 8mm and the installation needs to be done with a 9mm drill bit. When installing they fit very tightly and installers were using a slightly larger bit, or just moving the drill around to loosen the hole. The problem with this is that with a larger hole there is some movement of the bolt when using the windlass and this slight movement, over time, causes metal fatigue and the bolts eventually break. Ugh...

He also confirmed that getting them out is a tough chore. The installers usually dip them in locktite and, as Creekwood mentioned, the body is aluminum and the bolts are stainless. Usually, the aluminum loses in that battle.

So...I can order a new base (part number FVSSBAL10C00A00 in case anyone needs it) or a new windlass. He also said I need to glass/fill the old holes and redrill them to the correct spec to avoid this in the future.

Anyway...off to spend some boat bucks...I hope this helps if anyone ever runs into the same problem. (I am still going to try to get the broken studs out...not giving up on that until I have to.)

 

[mdolesh]

Update- spoke with Quick more and sent a picture. It wasn’t the holes. Mine are fine and on a steel plate. He said in my case Sea Ray used backer spacers (see black plastic pieces in this picture) because the posts aren’t threaded all the way. These bolts came loose and then sheared off. So..worth checking the tightness of your windlass once a year. Something I will do from now on.