Windlass and Roller

[H2ONUT]

I am going to install a windlass and bow roller. I know that a backing plate should be added to the roller, how about the windlass?

Is 3/4" plywood overkill? How about a 1/4" piece of aluminum?

If I use plywood, should I coat it in resin?

Can I make one backing plate that will take care of both or should the roller and windlass have it's own?

 

[Henry Boyd]

Mark,

Here are a couple of pix that came out of my windlass repair from last summer:

This is the backing plate on the anchor chute / roller frame. It runs the full length of the chute. I wasn't really paying attention to this as I was concentrating on the electrical problems. I seem to recall it was 1/8 aluminum.

The next picture is the backing plate for the bow cleat. There is a deck cleat (no picture) that is used to secure the anchor rode and is similarly back plated. This cleat takes the load off the windlass in long term anchoring situations. I use it when we overnight, or if it is bumpy.

On the Lofrans Marlin that came with our 280, there is no need to have a backing plate on the windlass. The housing on deck contains the gypsy, below deck the motor and gear drive mate with the deck housing effectively clamping itself to the deck. The mounting is flanged so it makes its own backing plate. If you go the aluminum backing plate route, make sure you goop the stainless bolts and washer to insulate the steel from the aluminum.

Henry

 

[H2ONUT]

Thanks, have too see the pics at home later... blocked here at work :smt021.

Good point too about the stainless and aluminum.

 

[Henry Boyd]

The Sea Ray installation also has a piece of starboard that runs from the windlass to the chute. This protects the fiberglass from gouging by the chain. And finally there is a D ring and short piece of SS cable and a clip that acts as a safety line holding the anchor in place and allowing you to take any strain off the windlass with the anchor up.

Henry

 

[H2ONUT]

I have a piece of starboard, and the locking pin to go thru the chain when it's in the up position. I also need to add a cleat.

Where the rope and chain pass thru the deck into the locker, I was going to cut a piece of PVC pipe and epoxy it in for a quide. Obviously it needs to be flush with the deck surface, but should I leave it below the surface about an inch or trim it flush there also?

 

[Henry Boyd]

Mark,

It probably depends on the brand/style windlass you choose. The Marlin we have incorporates a cover on the deck fitting that acts as a guide that covers the hole in the deck that the rode passes through. So in our case the hole is sanded/filed so that it is smooth and coated with resin (although epoxy would probably work just as well).

I think as long as the rode will fall naturally into the approximate center of the chain locker you shouldn't need a hawsepipe.

Henry

 

[H2ONUT]

Thanks again for the info... I will check out the pics later.

I will also take pics of the install when I am done.

Is it spring yet??? :smt089

 

[Henry Boyd]

Not here. I can't believe we are going to go into daylight savings time with snow on the ground!

 

[H2ONUT]

Yeah, that is pretty funny...

Sunday night me and the girlfriend are going to cook on the grill and sit around the fire pit to celebrate longer daylight :lol:. However, I have to shovel a path and an area to sit in :smt101

 

[Henry Boyd]

I only got the chairs out of the snowbank yesterday. The snowbank on the patio is still about half way up the chiminea. At this rate we won't see that til the 4th of July.