Will this Scrim-Backed Headliner be Suitable.

Well since I had already glued the insulation & headliner sample together with spray adhesive (Over the sealant), I thought I would see (24hrs later) if it had stuck?

What a 'PLONKER' I am, of cause it didn't stick LOL

However your advice on the Nashua Foil Tape was spot on, I have run it along a seam and it looks to have stuck way better then the duct tape I previously tried.
I will leave it a few days to make sure it does not come loose, but its looking good so far.

And that's why I love these threads, thanks guys, I will keep you updated with photos ect as to my progress.

Cheers,
Indy
 
"You have raised a point that I do worry about which is leaking & staining.
Hopefully that wont happen because I have the 'closed cell (Waterproof) insulation already up, and all the seams between the rolls, and around the edges will be sealed with adhesive silicon."

I was just going off what you said in post #3.^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Since you already have the head liner down now is the best time to rebed all of your rail stanchions, hatches, nav. lights and anything else that has penetrated the deck during installation to prevent any leaks in the future that will ruin all your hard work.
QUOTE]


You said here that you are worried about leaking and staining, so now is the time to do this since any leaks you have now or ones that will develop in the future will be "temporarily" trapped between the "waterproof" insulation (You can't seal deck leaks from the inside) and the deck. Furthermore if you do have any leaks, the deck coring will surely get saturated and rot if it hasn't already before you notice water on the inside. all of the deck penetrations will be much easier accessed now rather then later after you have put everything back together.
 
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You are right, I may as well try that now and report back in a few days when I also identify if the foil tape sticks to the foil backed foam :D

Hopefully yes to all then I can get cracking...

Indy
 

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