Will a lockout solenoid help?

[SoggyHawk]

Dreaming of when it will stop raining and thinking about trailering the 220 again. I keep it stored in the backyard but have to back it up a small embankment that rises maybe 10 feet. The difficulty in the past has been the manual surge brake override. Even though I lock it out, as soon as I pull forward again (to straighten out again and again) the lockout kicks out and surge brakes are once again applied. I have to jump back out, re-engage the lockout, and try again.

Dealer recommended switching out the hitch to one that includes a lockout solenoid. The solenoid is powered by the reverse lights on the truck. Has anyone else performed this switch? Does it work? Trailer is an EZ Loader with an Atkins (sp?) hitch.

 

[Nehalennia]

Dreaming of when it will stop raining and thinking about trailering the 220 again. I keep it stored in the backyard but have to back it up a small embankment that rises maybe 10 feet. The difficulty in the past has been the manual surge brake override. Even though I lock it out, as soon as I pull forward again (to straighten out again and again) the lockout kicks out and surge brakes are once again applied. I have to jump back out, re-engage the lockout, and try again.

Dealer recommended switching out the hitch to one that includes a lockout solenoid. The solenoid is powered by the reverse lights on the truck. Has anyone else performed this switch? Does it work? Trailer is an EZ Loader with an Atkins (sp?) hitch.

I have a King Trailer that has the electric lockout from the reverse signal. It works great. Putting the 260DA away is a tight fit at our storage so I'm glad to see it work so well.
I'm not sure what the conversion would run for your EZLoader.

My trailer has the Titan/Dico Model #10 Acuator and looks like an easy bolt up, but you'll need to reconnect the brakes lines and properly bleed them. You may be able to have your EZ Loader dealer do that, or even Boat Country in Everett, where I bought my trailer has a service dept to do it.
Since you're in Woodinville, their local Rep is right there on
EZ Loader Northwest
www.ezloader.com

21424 87th Ave SE
Woodinville, WA 98072
(360) 668-3517

 

[Go Aweigh2452]

Another easy solution would be to place a 2x4 about 1 ft long between the tongue and where the surge brake slides back effectively stopping the surge brake from doing its thing... You can take a bungee cord and temporarily hang the 2x4 in that notch when backing in your yard...

 

[boatrboy]

I have the solenoid and it works great for me too.

 

[Sorrento 25]

Works great except in cases where you stop on an down incline to shift to reverse. You will find that its difficult to disengage the coupler first with the trailer pushing. If you shift into reverse with the coupler not fully disengaged you can lock your brakes on instead of off.

 

[wish2fish]

Glad you brought this up soggy. That little lockout of mine dissapeared last year. I assume it was taken when at the lake. I need to find a way to get around this.

 

[wish2fish]

FYI,
for all with EZ Loader trailers I found their parts website.
EZ loader parts

 

[Weave]

My lockout works great! especially now that I found the short in the wire.

 

[SoggyHawk]

Thanks for the info everyone...incredible site. I called the local dealer with the VIN and related info to get an estimate. It turns out that the kit from EZLoader only works on disc brakes, not drums. Dealer said I would need to switch to discs (both axles) and replace the actuator. $2K vs. the 2x4 approach....hmmm....I'm going with a 2x4. Not worth it to back up into my "RV parking" spot.

My actuator already has a manual lock-out, it just re-engages when the trailer is pulled forward. I will figure out a clever way to keep the lock-out locked...that should solve it.

 

[slo240cc]

All you need is a line lock. Used a lot in drag racing as a way to hold the front breaks and do a burn out with a stanard trans. To install you would have to cut the break line and put in two ine flair fittings and the lock in line. Then as mentioned above run it off of the rev lights or I set mine up with a switch or the rev lights as I have to stop down a hill and then back up it. Any more questions let me know.
Jeff

 

[SeaRay4EVR]

I have a 2007 185 sport with surge brakes. The trailer has a 5 pin plug and I purchased a round to 5 pin adapter for my 2004 Grand Cherokee. What is the 5th pin used for as it apparently does not lock out the brakes in reverse. I am currently using the manual lock out but would like to confirm it should not already lock out when the reverse lights are on or look for an upgrade to allow this functionality.

Anyone else out there with a 185 know if this should work?

 

[SoggyHawk]

I am not sure about your trailer but it seems logical that the 5th wire controls a solenoid lockout.

As an FYI: I am posting my $4 solution to my problem. I bought some galvanized steel and bent it into a shape to hold back the manual lockout switch so it doesn't reset when I pull the trailer forward. It works great -- thanks for everyone's suggestions.

 

[Weave]

Searay4evr,
The 5th wire is for a solenoid that locks the brakes when your vehicle is shifted into reverse. When the reverse lights come on, the solenoid should activate. Are you 100% that the solenoid isn't working? Are the wheels locking up when in reverse?
I had a similar problem with the trailer on my Sundeck, there was a pinch in the solenoid wire so when I put the truck in reverse, the solenoid wire would short and blow a fuse. Turns out the wire was grounding on the frame everytime the solenoid was activated.

 

[Larry&Leisa]

I had an issue on my trailer as well... was just a poor connection.. a lil wiggle and it would release.. took it apart and checked the connections. Is it an '07 trailer as well? Might check with the manf