Why didn't anyone tell me?

25th mustang...Are you sure that is Teak? or are you sure you are usuing Cetol natual...becaue my wood looks nothing like that!

That wood is Red Oak.

I'm on my second coat, this is about 4 hours after drying, and I scuffed the first coat before applying the second coat...Which one looks the best?

I like the 3rd one the best. :smt001 Nice work!
 
The wood on my boat I assumed was teak? I was unaware boat companies would use anything other than teak or mahogony.

I am using the Cetol natural and the gloss over the top on all the wood. Here are a couple of more recent photos. It is a bit orange but not too bad.

I might do a little digging to see if theres a chance I don't have teak back there.

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I tried a few different teak oils, to no significant differant results.
However, I removed the teak, got it wet, then took liquid cascade (dishwashing liquid) and coated the teak. Let it stand about 5 min, dont let it dry. Use a sponge with the scrubber on it and wash it off.... watch the dirt easily come off.
Then I apply the teak oil. I also added poly to top it off.
 
Te Ka and Tip Top Teak were the brands of choice when I had teak on a boat. That's been some time ago, but I see it is still around. Give a call to the yacht service companies in FL and see what they use. Ditto the charter Battlewagon folks in NC.
 
I tried a few different teak oils, to no significant differant results.
However, I removed the teak, got it wet, then took liquid cascade (dishwashing liquid) and coated the teak. Let it stand about 5 min, dont let it dry. Use a sponge with the scrubber on it and wash it off.... watch the dirt easily come off.
Then I apply the teak oil. I also added poly to top it off.
I would apply Bix wood conditioner to the wood first, this allows the oil you choose to penetrate. You can apply the oil right away.
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It really makes the grain pop and I use it on the transom tables I'm making.
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How is poly going to stick to an oiled surface?

If you use System Three WR-LPU marine coatings you'll have great results.
I used it on the cockpit table I made and it still looks great today (3 years).
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X2 on what David said above. Te Ka (cleaner) and Tip Top Teak (oil) have been favorites of mine for over 20 years. However, I have recently found another oil I like better than the tip top teak. It's Interlux Premium Teak Oil. I'm still using the Te Ka.
 
I use Penofin "hardwood" formula Rosewood oil. It's beautiful.
 
I use Penofin "hardwood" formula Rosewood oil. It's beautiful.

Where do you get this oil? I'd like to give it a try.
Thanks,
Rich

Edit*I Googled the name and found a dealer less than a mile from the boat.
 
Last edited:
X2 on what David said above. Te Ka (cleaner) and Tip Top Teak (oil) have been favorites of mine for over 20 years. However, I have recently found another oil I like better than the tip top teak. It's Interlux Premium Teak Oil. I'm still using the Te Ka.

X3 on Te Ka. If you aren't using it to clean and prep your teak you are simply wasting your time. In 20 minutes your teak will look cleaner than after 4 hours of applying brighteners/bleach/sanding/etc etc...

While I thankfully no longer have to worry about teak, when I used to have boats with a good bit of teak it looked so good I spent all my time at marinas answering teak questions.

As for post Te Ka - I personally preferred just a freshly oiled look over any kind of varnishy / sealer products. The teka is so quick to clean/strip it was literally just 30 minutes to do a te ka/oil treatment two or three times a season - and no one had better looking teak.

1. wet teak. 2. spray on part 1 of the te ka system. 3. keep it moist with a light mist and let it soak in for a few minutes. 4: lightly agitate with a bristle brush. 5. apply part 2 (neutralizer) 6. let dry and oil.
 
Blew, the ONLY solution to getting the teak to a point where you don't EVER have to worry about how it looks is simple......

Upgrade to a new Sedan Bridge that has ZERO teak on it.
 
well I know there's about 50 brands of brand teak oils. I've never tried any of them. I guess I'm a weirdo but I just take a scotchbrite pad or 120 grit (if It really needs it) at the beginning of the season and boiled linseed oil.:huh: pretty sure most of the teak oils contain linseed or tung oil so I figure skip the fillers and just go straight to the source. it lasts about a month then we just touch up with some more boiled linseed oil and a rag. takes 10 minutes. just need to dispose of the rags properly.
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