What options are need to install a new generator?

[Loneranger]

What options are need to install a new generator on a boat that has never had a generator before. For instance on Kohler's web page for the 5ECD, a 5kw 60Hz low CO gas unit as seen in the link below:

http://www.kohlerpower.com/marine/d...goryNumber=12561&filter_1=60 Hz&prodnum=72961

there are listed these options:

• Sound Shield
• Ship-toShore Switch
• Remote Digital Gauge
• Oil Pressure and Water Temperature Sender
• Remote Start Panel
• Remote Connection/Extension Harness
• 12-Inch Remote Wiring Harness
• Line Circuit Breakers
• Sea Spares(TM) Maintenance Kit

Which of these are necessary and which are just nice to have? Of those just nice to have which ones are really worth the money?

I used Kohler as an example but all the manufacturers seem to have about half a dozen "options" as seen in the Westerbeke link.

http://www.westerbeke.com/products/generator_detail.cfm?gen=19

Thanks,

John

 

[fwebster]

First of all, I am not very familiar with the 270, so I'm not the one to assess what you may have vs. what you need.

Sea Ray offers generators as options for many boats. Those that are available from the factory with generators will already have a lot of the optional stuff your list contains. If they are not equipped completely, they may be partially equippedand may have control panels with cut outs and plugs instead of switches or breakers. They may already have the ship to shore switch incorporated into the master panel, but there may only be the shore breaker and you have to add the slide and ship breaker. Some of the wiring harness may be tucked away behind you main panel.

You may find it easier to make a friend at your local Sea Ray dealer and get a bid on a complete generator installation and then talk thru with their service manager what he will need and what is already on the boat. Another advantage to dealing with the dealer on a generator installation is that they may be able to get a suitable left over or last year's model from Sea Ray at a substantial discount since they cannot use an obsoleted size or out of date model on new boats. Don't just avoid the dealer because "Things are high there" since, in a lot of cases, the dealer can take advantage of Sea Ray's buying power, free freight (a delivery truck bringing a boat to the dealer) and a ton of product know how.

Good luck with your project..........

 

[Loneranger]

Thanks for the information. I have not spoken with the dealer yet. I have spoken with the generator installer that works for one of the local marinas. He did say that since my boat has factory AC then the wiring harness is already in place for the generator.

John

 

[PMvdb395DA]

Hello,

I think in a smaller cruiser like a 270 you need a sound shield.
Otherwise the sound of the gen doesn't make it fun to use on the hook.

Peter.

 

[tmhudson2]

On our '00 290DA, the PO had had his dealer install a 3.5kw Kohler in a sound shield. It was mounted on the starboard side, since the batteries took up the space on the port side where the factory installed genny would have been. I don't know why only 3.5kw, as that is smaller than the factory option 5kw; perhaps that's all the buyer had the budget for. It ran the AC and one kitchen appliance at a time (either range or microwave), but not both. We really appreciated the sound shield, which the factory option genny didn't have. The generator start-stop switch and genny-shore power switch were mounted in the same locker with the battery switches, in the cockpit next to the transom door.

 

[sbw1]

I doubt you will need a 5kw. That is overkill on my boat and your system needs would be no greater.

 

[dpmulvey]

I have no problem with the standard 4.5 kW that came on Saint Max.

Go with a westerbeke safe CO 1800 RPM unit with an exhaust gas seperator. Run the exhaust gas up a stack when on the hook.

 

[Presentation]

We added a generator to our boat a year ago.

Just FYI….the 2000 270 Sundancer (not the SE version) is very similar to the current model 280 Sundancer.

Please see this post.
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6788&highlight=skipper


First and foremost, do you understand the amount of money you are talking about here?

Just to get you in the ballpark, you are talking at least $7,000 if you do it yourself using the least expensive alternative and about $12,500 if you have it done and go with the largest low CO generator that will fit in your boat.

We spent $8,500. We had it installed for us. I selected the Westerbeke MPV 3K gas generator with the built in catalytic converter.

From experience, we can simultaneously run the AC, electric stove and microwave. Alternatively, keep the electric stove and microwave off and turn on everything else (water heater + inverter + my laptop charger plugged into a AC plug) and you are good to go. Also, turn on only the AC and run a cord from our boat to another boat during a terribly hot night and you can run both AC units from the one generator. (I am not saying this was safe, just saying what we did) I don’t know if I could have gone further (higher load), we never once popped the circuit breaker.

Keep in mind; our boats have a 30 Amp shore power system. So if we are plugged in at the dock we get a maximum of 30 Amps. This generator is a 25 Amp system. So you have close to your maximum electrical capacity that you would have had being plugged into shore power.


To answer your specific questions:

[*]Sound Shield – we do not have one. Keep in mind we went with the lower RPM Westerbeke MPV generator. If you are in the cabin the air conditioning is louder then the generator. If you are in the cockpit the exhaust fan is louder then the generator.

[*]Ship-to-Shore Switch – yes, you will need this. Prevents you from accidentally connecting to both generator power and shore power at the same time.

[*]Remote Digital Gauge – I don’t have this. I don’t know why I would need this. The AC panel already has a analog voltage guage.

[*]Oil Pressure and Water Temperature Sender – I don’t have this. I don’t know why I would need this. The Westerbeke unit will shut itself down automatically of the oil level is to low or the temperature gets too high.

[*]Remote Start Panel – Panel? We have a remote start switch. We put it in the existing AC electrical panel in the cabin next to the ship / shore transfer switch. I think you will want this remote switch unless you like opening your engine hatch every time you want to start or stop the generator.

[*]Remote Connection/Extension Harness – I don’t know what this is. Sounds like it may connect the generator to the remote start switch.

[*]12-Inch Remote Wiring Harness – I don’t know what this is.

[*]Line Circuit Breakers – I don’t know what this is. The Westerbeke has a built in circuit breaker as does the AC panel.

[*]Sea Spares(TM) Maintenance Kit – I did get the smaller “A” kit plus a couple of extra impellers. I had enough room to add some other items inside the orange tackle box they call a kit and I keep this under the cabin step along with other tools and such. I have not used anything from the kit yet.

**** Something to add to your list. Check your built in factory CO detector. How I did this is I held a bag over the generator exhaust, capturing some exhaust, then closed the bag, ran to the detector then opened the bag. My CO alarm did go off. I also added 2 battery powered CO detectors, one in the mid birth and one in the V birth on the opposite side as from the built in hard wired CO detector. I test all three often.

Also, I added an additional fire extinguisher in the cabin by the aft most port window and we run the exhaust fan when we run the generator. Frank will chime in that the fan is not rated for continual use and I have no argument with him, just saying what we do.

I will say that I hope to never again have another cruiser type of boat with out a built in generator.

 

[Loneranger]

Thanks for all the info. Great...

I have already acquired a Kohler 5kw generator so that decision has been made. Interesting that some people have overkill with 5kw but with 3.5kw cannot run both AC and microwave. The factory location for the generator is forward of the engine. To port of the engine is the hot water heater, freshwater holding tank and batteries and to the starboard is the holding tank and macerator for the septic system.

Yes, I realize the amount of money involved and likely would not have gone forward if I did not come by a good deal on the generator.

I have been emailing xintrex already about cost to upgrade my CMD2 to the CMD-4MR-RLY which can be interconnected and also wired to shut down the generator. The CMD-4MR-RLY is listed at over $200. I guess fortunately I only need 2 of them.

Once again thanks for the info and link to the thread on your generator install.

John

 

[MLauman]

[*]Remote Start Panel – Panel?
[*]Remote Connection/Extension Harness – I don’t know what this is. Sounds like it may connect the generator to the remote start switch.
[*]12-Inch Remote Wiring Harness – I don’t know what this is.
[*]Line Circuit Breakers – I don’t know what this is. The Westerbeke has a built in circuit breaker as does the AC panel.

Panel - they can call it that because it has a switch AND a led indicator - and thus charge you more.
Remote Harness - just a bundle of wires to connect the remote switch panel. Mine was too short (about 15') so I had to make a new one anyway.
12-inch harness - plug and pigtails for above
Line breakers - Not sure either - my Kohler has them mounted on the genset also.

have spoken with the generator installer that works for one of the local marinas. He did say that since my boat has factory AC then the wiring harness is already in place for the generator.

I wouldn't count on it. My '97 270 had factory AC but no genset wiring. I suspect that statement is more applicable to larger boats.

There are several other (non-Kohler)components you will need to complete the installation. You will need a water muffler, exhaust hose, elbows and thru-hull. You will need water intake thru-hull, seacock, strainer and hose. You will need a fuel tank pickup, filter and fuel line (if you have single engine there should already be a spare threaded plug on top of tank). You will need some battery cables to connect the genset to your battery (and optionally a seperate battery for the gen). You will also need the wiring for the electrical connections assuming you have no harness.

When I installed mine I think I spent around $5-600 on these extra items. A source for inexpensive high-quality marine wire is www.bestboatwire.com

 

[Loneranger]

I now have my generator installed and working wonderfully. Total cost was $4640. I bought a Kohler Generator 5ECD still with 4 years of factory warranty left on it for $2900. It only had 0.3 hours on it. I got it as surplus from a boat manufacturer that did not end up using it on a prototype boat. It also included the sound shield. Although the top part of the sound shield was missing. The installation cost and miscellaneous materials was another $1740. Needless to say I am quite excited about the generator find and the installation.

I was worried about the sound but with the hatch closed it is not too bad. You can tell it is on but it quickly becomes a background noise.

I also replaced the old cabin carbon monoxide detectors with new CMD-4MR-RLY models that are wired to shut down the generator if they alarm. They are also interconnected with each other and with the built in CO alarm on the generator itself. The cost of materials and installation of these is also included in the $4640 price tag.

I will try to get some pictures of it if I remember my camera the next time I go. The only item we had to move was a grounding block and a bilge light that were mounted on the front wall (?bulkhead) of the engine room.

John

 

[tmhudson2]

I also replaced the old cabin carbon monoxide detectors with new CMD-4MR-RLY models that are wired to shut down the generator if they alarm. They are also interconnected with each other and with the built in CO alarm on the generator itself.

Most excellent!