What is your opinion of this type of DC 12v wire connector?

E

ejbpesca

New Member
Aug 26, 2015
141
Alabama Gulf Coast
Boat Info
1996 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer Sport Cruiser
1993 Cape Horn 19 Offshore open fisherman cc with 2014 Yam
Engines
GM V8 300hp with Mercruiser sterndrive
Yamaha 150 outboard on Cape Horn
connectors.JPG

I am planning on using this type of connector (blue ones for 14 ga.) and some liquid tape at each end for a sump pump connection. Any opinions on this type of wire connector?
 
I use either heat shrink connectors, or regular connectors with heat shrink tube over them.
For an added measure on connections for the bilge pumps, I get them high up so they won't be near water, and after heat shrinking them I dab so silicone on them just to be sure. I've also put a coating of liquid electrical tape on connections after heat shrinking. Again, not needed, but doesn't hurt.
I keep a container with assorted connectors and heat shrink tubes in my toolbox on the boat for repairs, along with crimping pliers and a 12 volt test light. They always come in handy.
 
I sell all this stuff, and have dealt with it for 20 years now.

Heath shrink connectors.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Heat shrink glue lined sealed butt connectors are typically used in this situation.

However, on a recent rewire job of my runabout I used heat shrink glue lined sealed ring terminals hooked up to a blue sea terminal block and housed the terminal block in a plastic box. The terminal block makes it easier to swap out a bilge pump as it is just a matter of unscrewing the pos and neg ring terminals and terminating the new bilge pump with ring terminals and tightening up the screws in the terminal block.

http://www.superiorterminals.com.au/

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/19/10/Terminal_Blocks/TerminalBlock

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Enclosures-&-Panel-Hardware/Plastic-Boxes/ABS---Sealed/c/230F

If you go the butt connector style connectors make sure you have spare wiring to compensate for having to cut off the existing butt connectors when replacing the bilge pump down the track. The terminal block method describe above makes the extra wiring unnecessary as it is only the pump side of the terminal block that is being replaced.

Of course there are spade and bullet style connectors also, however it is my experience that these connectors are not sealed as the opposite end where the wire is fed into the terminal is open, whereas the ring terminals are sealed.

I would not use the terminals shown above in a bilge.
 
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What kind of heat gun do you use and recommend to shrink the connectors in engine room? Watts? temps ? etc.
 
melida said:
What kind of heat gun do you use and recommend to shrink the connectors in engine room? Watts? temps ? etc.
Click to expand...
You may want to start a new thread with that question. jb Only way I've seen it done is with an open propane flame..not good. I have an electric heat gun but like you I don't know if it will go the job on shrink wrap. If no answer comes you can google it and products that appear may give specs on what they can do.
 
ejbpesca said:
You may want to start a new thread with that question. jb Only way I've seen it done is with an open propane flame..not good. I have an electric heat gun but like you I don't know if it will go the job on shrink wrap. If no answer comes you can google it and products that appear may give specs on what they can do.
Click to expand...

I'm also referencing electric heat guns. Googled and saw that even the cheapest ones are heating 400-700F degrees. I guees shrinking takes very little time seconds or a minute but isn't that temp too much in engine room ?
 
No pro here but.the heat from the electric guns that are somewhat like a hair dryer only put out the really hot temp just past the nozzle so if there is any room at all at the wires to be connected I would think okay...but...this is why I chose the connectors in this post. I can barely get my hands into the spot where I need to make a connection, much less a heat gun. These connectors are "weather proof," but I am going to make them hopefully "water proof," with liquid tape dabbed on each end.
 
ejbpesca said:
No pro here but.the heat from the electric guns that are somewhat like a hair dryer only put out the really hot temp just past the nozzle so if there is any room at all at the wires to be connected I would think okay...but...this is why I chose the connectors in this post. I can barely get my hands into the spot where I need to make a connection, much less a heat gun. These connectors are "weather proof," but I am going to make them hopefully "water proof," with liquid tape dabbed on each end.
Click to expand...

Ok then, any brand do you recommend for the heat gun ?
Saw some very cheap priced at amazon, do they worth to buy which I'll keep it in case of needed.
 
melida said:
Ok then, any brand do you recommend for the heat gun ?
Saw some very cheap priced at amazon, do they worth to buy which I'll keep it in case of needed.
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I have no recommendation for a heat gun. I suggest you start a thread in the repair/maintenance section with that question. Someone will probably answer.
 
ejbpesca said:
I have no recommendation for a heat gun. I suggest you start a thread in the repair/maintenance section with that question. Someone will probably answer.
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks.
 
I use a makita heat gun something like a hg 6020. Temp about the mid point and low speed on the airflow. Keep it about 4 inches from the terminal or heat shrink and keep it moving. The heat shrink is more susceptible to burning than the terminals. Small wires such as you find on sounders are extremely susceptible to melting the insulation when heat shrinking so this may call for the euro style connectors.
 
Harbor Freight has cheap heat guns. Since it isn't a critical tool, I had no problem using their crappy brand. Works great and is cheap enough so having a separate one on the boat didn't hurt much!
 
HUMPH said:
Harbor Freight has cheap heat guns. Since it isn't a critical tool, I had no problem using their crappy brand. Works great and is cheap enough so having a separate one on the boat didn't hurt much!
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Great point I always buy cheap tools that only get used once in awhile or that you don't need quality for the job.
 
Bought a cheap one, its a "Wayer" brand with lcd and push button settings for temp between 80-650 C degrees and fan speed.

 
Whoa...that is a nice one. Mine is cheaper than a Walmart hair dryer and I don't think would get hot enough to do the job. Good news is the connectors I got in work great and a dab of liquid tape at their ends will make them water proof not just weather proof. No crimp, no heat, no solder, so in they go.
 
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