What bilge pump and float switch would you get?

skunkman

Active Member
May 27, 2014
452
Longboat Key
Boat Info
2014 330 DA sold
Current boat 2021 Formula 350CBR
Engines
Triple 350 Mercury Verado
My primary bilge pump and float switch are both shot. The pump is Attwood 1700GPH, the switch is Attwood with cvr. I don't know what cvr stands for. Would anyone recommend a better pump and/or switch?
 
I just replaced my old pump and float... whoever I asked, it seems the RULE Pumps and Floats were always high on their list if not their most recommended.. I went with RULE..
 
For a bilge switch I would consider one of the solid state models like a Water Witch or Johnson Ultima. Unlike a mechanical float switch there are moving parts to jam or wear out.
I'm sold on Water Witch !!!
 
I have installed 2 Johnson Ultimas. LOVE them. 5 years, all good. Best I have ever installed
 
I was thinking of installing the OEM pump thinking installation would be easier. If I switch pumps how do I secure them to the hull in a 330DA? Also, I am assuming that the pump has failed because the light on the manual switch does not illuminate when I push the switch and of course no pumping occurs. I checked my fuse panel and all looked good. Any other fuse that I am overlooking?
 
I am assuming that the pump has failed because the light on the manual switch does not illuminate when I push the switch and of course no pumping occurs. I checked my fuse panel and all looked good. Any other fuse that I am overlooking?
You really need to get a multimeter at the pump, Float and manual switch to be sure you are getting power thru the entire circuit.... check incoming power to the switch while your there
 
You really need to get a multimeter at the pump, Float and manual switch to be sure you are getting power thru the entire circuit.... check incoming power to the switch while your there
In addition...

Manually lift the float switch to see if the pump operates.

Skunk, you asked about fuses... there will only be one fuse. However, the float switch is a different circuit and will have it's own fuse - not far off one of the batteries. The wires/fuses are often labelled.
 
The light coming on at the switch is usually wired so it indicates that there is power being sent to the pump directly, bypassing the float switch. I think the fact that you don't see the light come on is a good indication that this will be a "power" problem or misswiring, as opposed to a bad pump. Use a multi meter and trace it instead of guessing.
 
Ok. I was checking the breakers. Didn't even look for the fuse near the battery. I'll check Friday when I get to the boat.
Thank you
 
I went with a Rule Automatic/internal float for my replacement. I wired a separate float switch to a dash light with audible alarm forward of the bilge pump sump area. If water gets over the sump depth, I'll have a warning.
 
Just a comment: I've never felt that lifting a float switch to make a pump run to verify operation is the best way (unless it is actually pumping water). You don't know if the pump is clogged/airlocked, a hose is clogged, hose clamp broken/leaking, if it is pumping a good amount of water, etc. It is a critical piece of equipment. I fill my bilges with water and see if ALL the pumps function properly and will run for the required time. That's the only way to really know if all is working properly
 
Just a comment: I've never felt that lifting a float switch to make a pump run to verify operation is the best way (unless it is actually pumping water). You don't know if the pump is clogged/airlocked, a hose is clogged, hose clamp broken/leaking, if it is pumping a good amount of water, etc. It is a critical piece of equipment. I fill my bilges with water and see if ALL the pumps function properly and will run for the required time. That's the only way to really know if all is working properly
In this case, though, it is a very valid way to check. He currently is stating that the pump does not even power on, at all. Doing this will help to eliminate variables. And, it's a very quick/easy check to do with no tools needed. Further diagnosis may be needed, but this helps to point in the right direction.

However, lifting the float switch is, as far as the pump is concerned, the exact same thing as flipping the switch at the helm. If the goal is to check to see that the pump is "pumping properly", then lifting the float switch would do that, too. Although not as convenient as the dash switch, of course.
 
Another vote for Water Witch. I had 4 in the last boat (52'), and I have 2 in my current 23'. No moving parts, nothing to wear out and super easy installation. Cost is comparable to float switches the WILL fail in time.
Shawn
 

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