What bilge pump and float switch would you get?

Discussion in 'General Maintenance/Repair Questions' started by skunkman, Dec 10, 2019.

  1. skunkman

    skunkman Member

    423
    May 27, 2014
    Longboat Key
    Looking for 330 Sundancer
    350 twins
    My primary bilge pump and float switch are both shot. The pump is Attwood 1700GPH, the switch is Attwood with cvr. I don't know what cvr stands for. Would anyone recommend a better pump and/or switch?
     
  2. b_arrington

    b_arrington Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Feb 21, 2007
    Setauket, NY
    2018 Back Cove 34
    Cummins QSB 6.7 480
    For a bilge switch I would consider one of the solid state models like a Water Witch or Johnson Ultima. Unlike a mechanical float switch there are moving parts to jam or wear out.
     
  3. BellevueDA

    BellevueDA Member

    52
    Sep 28, 2019
    Bellevue, WA
    2007 Sundancer 260 w/ Arch
    350 MAG MPI w/Bravo III
    5KW KOHLER Gen.
    I just replaced my old pump and float... whoever I asked, it seems the RULE Pumps and Floats were always high on their list if not their most recommended.. I went with RULE..
     
  4. The Bill Collector

    The Bill Collector Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Jun 2, 2008
    Tacoma, WA
    1998 450 Sundancer, Achilles dinghy
    3126 Cat's
    I'm sold on Water Witch !!!
     
  5. LMBoat

    LMBoat Member

    450
    Oct 4, 2006
    Ft Lauderdale
    1999 450 EB
    Cummins 6CTA's
    I have installed 2 Johnson Ultimas. LOVE them. 5 years, all good. Best I have ever installed
     
  6. skunkman

    skunkman Member

    423
    May 27, 2014
    Longboat Key
    Looking for 330 Sundancer
    350 twins
    I was thinking of installing the OEM pump thinking installation would be easier. If I switch pumps how do I secure them to the hull in a 330DA? Also, I am assuming that the pump has failed because the light on the manual switch does not illuminate when I push the switch and of course no pumping occurs. I checked my fuse panel and all looked good. Any other fuse that I am overlooking?
     
  7. Blueone

    Blueone Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Jan 24, 2007
    Lake Erie, Ohio
    2004 420 Sundancer
    Cummins 6CTA 450's
    You really need to get a multimeter at the pump, Float and manual switch to be sure you are getting power thru the entire circuit.... check incoming power to the switch while your there
     
  8. skunkman

    skunkman Member

    423
    May 27, 2014
    Longboat Key
    Looking for 330 Sundancer
    350 twins
    I will do that. Thanks
     
  9. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    In addition...

    Manually lift the float switch to see if the pump operates.

    Skunk, you asked about fuses... there will only be one fuse. However, the float switch is a different circuit and will have it's own fuse - not far off one of the batteries. The wires/fuses are often labelled.
     
  10. Sublimetime

    Sublimetime Active Member

    846
    Oct 22, 2007
    clifton nj
    420 da
    454
    The light coming on at the switch is usually wired so it indicates that there is power being sent to the pump directly, bypassing the float switch. I think the fact that you don't see the light come on is a good indication that this will be a "power" problem or misswiring, as opposed to a bad pump. Use a multi meter and trace it instead of guessing.
     
  11. skunkman

    skunkman Member

    423
    May 27, 2014
    Longboat Key
    Looking for 330 Sundancer
    350 twins
    Ok. I was checking the breakers. Didn't even look for the fuse near the battery. I'll check Friday when I get to the boat.
    Thank you
     
  12. CNYBoater

    CNYBoater Active Member

    256
    Aug 14, 2017
    1994 200 Overnighter, Single Axle Easy Load'r Galvanized Trailer, 2009 Chevy Trailblazer
    Single 1994 Mercury Black Max V135 O/B
    I went with a Rule Automatic/internal float for my replacement. I wired a separate float switch to a dash light with audible alarm forward of the bilge pump sump area. If water gets over the sump depth, I'll have a warning.
     
  13. LMBoat

    LMBoat Member

    450
    Oct 4, 2006
    Ft Lauderdale
    1999 450 EB
    Cummins 6CTA's
    Just a comment: I've never felt that lifting a float switch to make a pump run to verify operation is the best way (unless it is actually pumping water). You don't know if the pump is clogged/airlocked, a hose is clogged, hose clamp broken/leaking, if it is pumping a good amount of water, etc. It is a critical piece of equipment. I fill my bilges with water and see if ALL the pumps function properly and will run for the required time. That's the only way to really know if all is working properly
     
  14. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    In this case, though, it is a very valid way to check. He currently is stating that the pump does not even power on, at all. Doing this will help to eliminate variables. And, it's a very quick/easy check to do with no tools needed. Further diagnosis may be needed, but this helps to point in the right direction.

    However, lifting the float switch is, as far as the pump is concerned, the exact same thing as flipping the switch at the helm. If the goal is to check to see that the pump is "pumping properly", then lifting the float switch would do that, too. Although not as convenient as the dash switch, of course.
     
    Blueone likes this.
  15. NorCal Boater

    NorCal Boater Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Jan 24, 2008
    Covington, LA
    Boatless
    No boat....no engines
    Another vote for Water Witch. I had 4 in the last boat (52'), and I have 2 in my current 23'. No moving parts, nothing to wear out and super easy installation. Cost is comparable to float switches the WILL fail in time.
    Shawn
     

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