What are things to look for when buying a used boat

S

Steve SIG

New Member
Jun 21, 2012
3
SW Florida
Boat Info
2009 Island Runner 31'
Engines
twin Yamaha 3's
I was wondering what you all usually look for when buying a used boat.

Should I bring a mechanic with me to inspect, do you primarily deal with dealers or independent parties?

This will be my 2nd boat purchase and I want it to go smoother than my 1st.

Thanks,

Steve
 
If you are serious about a boat your looking at make your offer contingent on a marine survey. It will cost a couple hundred dollars or more depending on the size of the boat but money well spent.
 
Stress cracks on the transom and the underside are indications that the transom is rotted and the boat has been pounded hard in rough water respectively. Blisters on the spray rails are an indication of moisture intrusion.

Take a plastic hammer and gently tap on the inside and outside of the transom, strngers, and lateral brace. The hammer should want to bounce back. No bounce back or a dull sound may indicate there is rot beneath the area. Check the deck in the same way.

Make sure the hour meter works and matches the other gages. I've seen used boats that have supposedly had 450 hours on them but looked beat up. The hour meter didn't even match the rest of the gages... If the boat does not have an hour meter, you will have no idea of the actual hours on the boat. Some owners of such boats will say they have about "x" hours on it. I asked one such owner how he arrived at that number? Unless they have a detailed log, you can't trust the number of hours the owner states on a boat without a hour meter. Make sure the hour meter works - many times, they fail and the owner never replaces them.

Look at the condition of the bilge - if the bilge is filthy, that to me indicates how well the boat was taken care of. If the boat is filhy when you look at it, chances are, it has always been filthy. Again, that will indicate how well the owner took care of it.

Ask to see service records. Records will provide important information on how well the boat was cared for as well as needed maintenance was performed such as a water pump impeller in the stern drive, etc.

Look for sloppy application of sealants around fittings - if you find it, chances are there was water intrusion and the owner made an attempt to seal it up.

If the boat has a stern drive, check the engine oil and check the gearcase oil to make sure there is not water present (milky color).

Check the bellows on stern drives to be sure they are not damaged. Outboards run in salt water have a finite lifespan - you will want to figure that into the price as well. Outboards in freshwater will last virtually forever if maintained properly - I still see Johnson/Evinrude/Mercurys from the early 1970s still in operation.

Make sure all instrumentation works properly. Make sure the engine is cold and start it on muffs while watching for blue smoke which can indicate the engine is tired and need of rings, etc.

Ask if the boat has had any gelcoat repair and if so, have the owner elaborate.

Once you pre-screen a boat, and you're still interested, you can make an offer contingent on a marine survey and a sea trial. Paying for surveys on a boat you may not be interested can get expensive quickly.
 
Last edited:
KHE said:
Stress cracks on the transom and the underside are indications that the transom is rotted and the boat has been pounded hard in rough water respectively. Blisters on the spray rails are an indication of moisture intrusion.

Take a plastic hammer and gently tap on the inside and outside of the transom, strngers, and lateral brace. The hammer should want to bounce back. No bounce back or a dull sound may indicate there is rot beneath the area. Check the deck in the same way.

Make sure the hour meter works and matches the other gages. I've seen used boats that have supposedly had 450 hours on them but looked beat up. The hour meter didn't even match the rest of the gages... If the boat does not have an hour meter, you will have no idea of the actual hours on the boat. Some owners of such boats will say they have about "x" hours on it. I asked one such owner how he arrived at that number? Unless they have a detailed log, you can't trust the number of hours the owner states on a boat without a hour meter. Make sure the hour meter works - many times, they fail and the owner never replaces them.

Look at the condition of the bilge - if the bilge is filthy, that to me indicates how well the boat was taken care of. If the boat is filhy when you look at it, chances are, it has always been filthy. Again, that will indicate how well the owner took care of it.

Ask to see service records. Records will provide important information on how well the boat was cared for as well as needed maintenance was performed such as a water pump impeller in the stern drive, etc.

Look for sloppy application of sealants around fittings - if you find it, chances are there was water intrusion and the owner made an attempt to seal it up.

If the boat has a stern drive, check the engine oil and check the gearcase oil to make sure there is not water present (milky color).

Check the bellows on stern drives to be sure they are not damaged. Outboards run in salt water have a finite lifespan - you will want to figure that into the price as well. Outboards in freshwater will last virtually forever if maintained properly - I still see Johnson/Evinrude/Mercurys from the early 1970s still in operation.

Make sure all instrumentation works properly. Make sure the engine is cold and start it on muffs while watching for blue smoke which can indicate the engine is tired and need of rings, etc.

Ask if the boat has had any gelcoat repair and if so, have the owner elaborate.

Once you pre-screen a boat, and you're still interested, you can make an offer contingent on a marine survey and a sea trial. Paying for surveys on a boat you may not be interested can get expensive quickly.
Click to expand...

Great advice....
 
I'll just add:
-another way to check the stringers for rot is to pull a bolt out of the engine mount. if it's wet or wood splinters come with it, walk away.
-jump around on the floor and feel for soft spots.

-check every switch, light, fuse and button (obvious)

-if you do choose to get a marine surveyor, get a reputable one, ask on here, lots of schmucks out there that take your money.

-also don't forget to check the trailer! check lights, tires for dry rot and sidwall cracking, that they are the proper rating (i.e. actually trailer tires), check the brake resevoir for fluid....are their bearing buddies, etc.
 
Unless you really know your way around boats, or it is a real cheapo boat, go for a Survey.
First find what you want, then agree upon a price contingent on the results of the survey.
If a seller doesn't want to go through a survey, or is at all hesitant, then walk away.
 
All great advice. Some surveyors don't do engine checks so make sure you have a qualified marine mechanic go through the engine to do things like inspect the fluids, compression test etc. Also make sure you take it on a sea trial with the surveyor and open it up to full throttle and check rpms, temp and oil pressure. Make sure the steering and throttle feel normal. The surveyor I had went with me and checked the temp at wot using a hand held thermal device. Good luck!
 
Visit the boat with cold engines. Note coolent levels in anti freeze bottles. Run it hard for half an hour note anti freeze level. Next day visit the boat again and note anti freeze levels if lower than original you probably have a problem. A mechanic can tell you what could be the problem.
 
Look at it carefully from various angles & make sure it sits level in the water. If it doesn't that may also be a clue for stringer rot. It may only be varying levels in the fuel tanks if there are two of them, or even an empty fresh water tank or a full holding tank. Any of these can make a difference. Either way if it lists to one side best to find out why
 
IMO, check the trailer if there is one as carefully as you check the boat. I've spent more on trailer repairs than I've spend on boat repairs including 4 new tires, new led lighting/wiring, new jack, new crossmember support beam and some other small things. It adds up.
 
One thing I forgot to add was when choosing a marine surveyor, make sure they are accredited. You can find them at http://www.marinesurvey.org/

Although, just because they are accredited, doesn't mean there are no bad ones out there. A lot of them will charge close to $500.00 for a full survey with a 30+ page report, etc. On the boats I have had surveyed, I just pay them by the hour to do a structural check and moisture readings. That usually amounts to $100.00 and does not include a report but I am present with the surveyor and take detailed notes. I'm also able to check the systems out myself and have a compression tester, etc.
 
Ok sounds wierd but smell everywhere,i had to replace the head plumbing after purchase ,no fun at all.also have the water tanks full to inspect for leaks,and sniff around for moldy smells in the lockers and under the windows and interior seating and beds.
 
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