Wet Deck Issue GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

[buckhuntr1]

Unfortunately I have a very wet deck on my 1999 310 express surrounding my windlass. I have considered many options but I think my first attempt will be to remove the windlass and use a snake to remove the rotted wood via the 3" hole under the windlass. I will then use Dry Rot to kill anything remaining.

My question is what is the best thing to use to replace the coring? I've heard of foam injectors, but I'm not sure what's best. Any thoughts? I'm open for other suggestions as well as to the best way to address the issue.

Thank you,
Chris

 

[Lazy Daze]

You might be best served to just open everything up and let it dry out. If the deck is comprised of end-grain balsa, it may not be rotten. Balsa is actually quite rot-resistant and because it's end-grain, the resin soaks in very well - at least that's the theory.

If you need to proceed with something more drastic, check out Boat Life's "Git-Rot".

But I would definitely try just letting it dry out, first.

 

[buckhuntr1]

Thanks for the reply. But how doi you let it dry without cutting the deeck? It's more like jelly on the 3" opening...

 

[Lazy Daze]

Open the anchor hatch/access panel. Remove the Windlass. Anything else up there that can be removed/opened up? I'm not overly familiar with your set-up, so I'm being a little vague.

Let it dry over the winter. I think it would be good to go this route before you start grinding things out.

That Git-Rot stuff is pretty neat. Check it out.

 

[tobnpr]

What is "Dry Rot" and how does it penetrate the wood and kill the spores?

We missed it at survey, but I found that mine wasn't rotted- that had happened long ago- it was literally gone, with a 3/4" void between the skins.

Working from inside through the access over the master berth, I cut out the lower skin and used 3/4" Starboard for the backing for my new windlass. It was a cuss-fest...but I got it done. In retrospect, I probably should have disassembled the bullkhead and given myself more room.

Most likely the core structure for the windlass is plywood, and not balsa core. Anything short of cutting out the lower skin and removing the coring is going to be a short-term fix as the rotted wood needs to be removed COMPLETELY and this is the only way you're going to be able to do that. Since it's a relatively small area my advice is to do it "right" and not band-aid it, or you'll be revisiting the problem again in short order. Injecting penetrating epoxy is only suitable for completely DRY wood- and that won't happen.

By using Starboard to replace the wood coring you eliminate the possibility of rot in the future, and there's no glass work necessary.