Westerbeke 7.6 BTD Vibration/Noise reduction

[The Bill Collector]

Mark,

The critical component that will get overlooked when do your pre/post-run before leaving the dock or upon returning to the dock is the seawater pump. On the 8.0-BTD, when your family and guests are antsy to leave, I'd bet you that you and others with sound shields frequently do not check the seawater pump and plumbing for leaks on the back side of the generator engine. This pump is troublesome because the impeller cover is very difficult to remove and replace without leaks (it is a Westerbeke thing caused by a paper thin fiber gasket). We have 3 Westerbeke owners in this thread who are or have had to deal with leaks and rust damage from this area. If you have escaped the "fun" of repairing/replacing the generator support system, congratulations!

You are spot on about the raw water pump, as mine was leaking and I had to rebuild it. I am very diligent about pre/post E.R. inspections. I noticed saltwater in the aft lower bilge sump and began my investigation as to where it was coming from and caught it before any extensive damage was done to gen.

 

[LMBoat]

I am +1 for the fabric sound shield. I have a 10BTD and the difference was very noticeable. I think I had Southern Insulation here in Ft Laud. do it. 7 years and no issue. It is easy to check fluids, and as noted just a few minutes to remove the front and side pieces to do all the maintenance. I have had leaks noted, but I've always found them quickly (look for leaks under the generator base). I will add it again if I get another boat without a sound shield. I think it was about $1 boat dollar. One of the best improvements we have made.

I also installed a larger water lift muffler (I think it is a 10" from an 8", I did this years ago). The theory is that Searay used the small one to fit an area to install (which was horrible as it was in the way all the time). I relocated it aft and installed the larger one. We believe that the generator was just blowing all the water out of the smaller muffler (not letting it pool in the muffler to absorb sound). The larger one made a big difference.

With these 2 improvements, the generator is a joy. You can still hear it, but that noise is reassuring and a reminder that I am boating! All good. Same with the splashing water, plus I can tell instantly if there is a clog or an impeller failure. If you use a split muffler where the water discharges below the water line, how can you tell if you have a problem before it shuts off? Or does not shut off and damages itself? We are in the water a lot snorkeling, hanging out, etc., and it is nice to look at the genset exhaust/water and know all is good.

 

[Cocktail Time]

Dave, who do you have coming out? I wouldn't mind them taking a look at my gen too while here. My isolators are shot. Mike Z replaced his this summer and it was a giant pita. Replacing the rails with the isolators already in place coulbe a better and easier solution.

 

[dtfeld]

I’m doing the rails myself...yup giant PITA. Waiting for parts and I bought a longer gearbox wrench to break the back rail mount bolts loose. Oh and new bottle of PB Blaster!

New exhaust hose arrived yesterday, so I should have myself back in business in a week or two.

I’m hoping Dan Frazier can do the tune up...injectors and valve lash.

 

[dtfeld]

Dave, who do you have coming out? I wouldn't mind them taking a look at my gen too while here. My isolators are shot. Mike Z replaced his this summer and it was a giant pita. Replacing the rails with the isolators already in place coulbe a better and easier solution.

Isolators by themselves are about $175. For a hundred buck more you get new rails and I think grounding strap. Then there are only 4 main mount bolts to break free and reinstall the rails...so far, a one man job...

Did the new isolators make a big difference for Mike?

 

[Cocktail Time]

Yes, they made a big difference. They needed to use a lift to raise the genset off the hull and rails to replace. I'm with you, might be easier to replace rails with isolators in place. On the valves, Mike or Dan can help you, I used a local injector shop to buy new gaskets for my injector pump and they are very familiar with this motor. They can do your injector testing and cleaning too. They had great clean room. Diesel Fuel Systems in Lawrenceville. I had eight dollars in parts. I do need my valves adjusted though. Runs awesome.

 

[dtfeld]

3 week lead time on the rails... uhhhg!

 

[dtfeld]

Christmas deliveries starting early...look what arrived today!! I'm a little surprised as I wasn't expecting these for another week or so.



Ordered on the Nov 15, arrived on the 27th.

 

[NotHerDecision]

What you should be doing is making a shrine around that 30.00 can of red spraypaint!

I'm just as guilty

Josh

 

[dtfeld]

What you should be doing is making a shrine around that 30.00 can of red spraypaint!

I'm just as guilty

Josh

Dont remind me, but thats going to be a rounding error by the time this is over...

 

[NotHerDecision]

I wish I would have ordered the rails as an assembly but I already ordered all the other parts. What would you charge me for your old ones? I could refurbish them almost like a core then pay it forward for the next person on mine. Actually I have a 10.0 BDTA so before you say yes I need to check the rails and make sure its the same part number

Josh

 

[dtfeld]

I wish I would have ordered the rails as an assembly but I already ordered all the other parts. What would you charge me for your old ones? I could refurbish them almost like a core then pay it forward for the next person on mine. Actually I have a 10.0 BDTA so before you say yes I need to check the rails and make sure its the same part number

Josh

They are yours, just pay shipping, but let me get them out of the boat first and see if they are in fact salvageable. The one with the grounding strap is good for sure, but I'm not sure about the other one. There is a TON or rust coming off of it. I suspect sea water got to that one over the years.

It still might be worthwhile, you can put one rail and swap the isolators, then do the other one.

I sprayed the bolts with PB blaster a couple days ago, and expect to get the rails replaced next week.

 

[dtfeld]

Josh...

Different part #'s, and I would thinnk yours are slightly longer...the 7.6 is a 3 cylinder, and the 10.0 is a 4 cylinder. However the frames may be the same and just have different isolators installed. I'd call Westerbeke.

 

[fwebster]

Guys,

If you get hung up on the cost of Westerbeke touch-up paint in a nice pretty Westerbeke rattle can, I color matched it to automotive paint several years ago and found that it is 1959 Ford Torch Red; Ford color code # MO175. A pint of acrylic enamel goes a lot further than a rattle can will.

 

[dtfeld]

Guys,

If you get hung up on the cost of Westerbeke touch-up paint in a nice pretty Westerbeke rattle can, I color matched it to automotive paint several years ago and found that it is 1959 Ford Torch Red; Ford color code # MO175. A pint of acrylic enamel goes a lot further than a rattle can will.

Lol!! I’d had that paint on the shopping list for 2 years...I finally said F*** it and ponied up. Like I said...a rounding error in the winter budget.

My time is worth something too.

 

[JVM225]

In addition, going to do the following.

Pull/service injectors
Adjust valve lash
New exhaust hose (one leaking late in the year)
New raw water hose
New coolant hoses

If all goes well, add a soft sided sound shield.

With all the work you are looking to do you may be better off pulling it out if you have the means to do it with.
The PO of my boat had a brand new genny installed in April 2016 (8 months before selling) and they painted the new one the same white as the motors. IMHO: It looks pretty good in white and will make things easier to spot in the future,

 

[dtfeld]

I’m going to pull up the battery and fuel lines, then I can rotate it to access what I need. I ordered all new coolant hoses and I’m replacing the raw water hose as well. I’ll spot treat corrosion as necessary.

I think the injectors and valve lash can be completed in place as well.

I’m still thinking about a soft enclosure, seems to be a very positive addition, and that would hide the color. I spend enough time in the ER that I’m comfortable id notice any leaks.

 

[Bubbles]

Suggest being careful with non factory enclosures.the pancake backend is very potent for its size and weight. The downside is they are so compact, heat dissipation is critical.
Adding high quality sound attenuation material in the engine room helps. Hatch gasketing is important. Isolating the ignition impulses from vessels stringer is important.
Westerbeke uses nice rubber isolators. Onan uses focused mounts which is the best way. If the wbeke isolators are in fresh condition they work very well. Use stainless metric Allen head screws to hold the impeller cover on. That makes holding the screw on the tool easier. Stainless studs with nuts run down will do it as well. The pump cover gaskets have to be thin. If not, water will bypass between the impeller and cover. Torque the head to spec.adjust the valves. Use the preheat even in the summer for the specified time. Keep the back end cool and dry. The sets last a long long time. Very simple machines that last. Hope this helps someone..

 

[dtfeld]

Duly noted...

 

[dtfeld]

Got the back rail 1/2 out...the front bolt is stuck good...multiple overnight shots of PB Blaster, heated a side of the nut with a small butane torch...cant get it loose. Any other advice before I go all in and cut it out with a dremel tool? Biggest issue is I can get enough travel on the wrench.

Also found why it was so hard to remove the drip pan...it was bolted down! Is this the normal install technique?