Westerbeke 6.5 BCG gas generator won’t start

[Bentwings]

So, I have thus Westerbeke 6.5 kw gas gen. It has 275 hours so it’s been used very little. All the red paint is in good shap and there appears to have been nothing opened up.

It ran fine 6 weeks ago then one day would not start and stay running. I inspected all the sensors and they seemed ok. I was suspicious of the low oil pressure switch so I bypassed it temporarily. I noticed the fuel pump was not running so I replaced it.

Still no start. I wired the fuel pump direct with my own on/off switch. Still no start.

I can prime the carb with a syringe and it will start and run a few seconds then stops.

I took the carb apart and cleaned it although it was very clean. I changed the fuel/water separator. No start. Then I thought maybe the fuel pump was not drawing fuel so I added a primer pipe to the gas line. The fuel pump definitely is pulling fuel.

Then I thought I might be able to bypass or disable the shut down solenoid on the carb. However the plunger is enclosed and seats in a small carb jet. So I did test it electrically and it operates. No start. I suppose I could remove the carb jet and try that.

I’m out of options. I went to the control panel and pulled it out to inspect it. I found a blown inline fuse and replaced it. No start.

The panel has 4 switches. Going left to right. Pre heat, no name, start then a start/stop switch below. This switch also runs a bilge blower in the run position.
The start switch is off, momentary on. The gen starts when this switch is raised to engage the starter. As soon as I let go of this switch the gen stops.

I confirmed this is the correct sequence with the broker.

I’ve also called Westerbeke three times and spoken to the tech dept. they have walked me through the process each time. All three agree my panel is not Westerbeke origin. They say they can’t help with the panel as it is not theirs. I can understand this.

This gen ran just fine then over night will not start and stay running.

Back to the panel. I’ve been suspicious of the toggle switches. I did check them electrically and they seem to be ok. However the starter switch seems “funky” sometimes it works sometimes not. I just received new high amp quality switches so I’ll replace them next.
The starter switch seems to be a on on momentary but no such switch exists....at least not that I could find. Yes I could use an ignition switch but it should run as is.

So any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The boat is out of the water now and I need to winterize this gen.

Question here is can I just pump pink anti freeze through the raw water hose from the strainer or water pump with my transfer water pump? The bost is slightly bow up, maybe equivalent to a nose down trim attitude.

Thanks
Byron

 

[LG111]

Not sure if this helps but I found that if I tried starting my westerbeke from the engine room even with the bilge panel switch on the genny would start and run only if I held the preheat switch on. As soon as I let go of that switch the genny quits. I learned that if I want the genny to stay running, I had the have the switch in the cabin on and the buzzer buzzing. Also, I am sure you looked at the breaker switch on the genny? Some times I bump mine not knowing and the genny will not start and can be baffling until I double check that switch. It's near the on off switches on the genny.

Yes you should be able to pump antifreeze into the raw water intake. Just watch for it as it exits the exhaust. Then your good.

 

[Bentwings]

Thanks for the tips. I’ll go down and check the breaker. I don’t remember seeing it however. I have the manual down in my car so I’ll look to see if I can run it’s location down. I’ve also checked all the fuses a number of times.

Also the controls on the gen don’t work at all. I did try having the cabin on/off switch on. It’s like they are disconnected.

This thing ran fine then suddenly just wont start.

I’m out of time now as it’s due to hard freeze later this week. I have a 12vdc water transfer pump so I think I can pump through the hose that comes from the raw water strainer. I’ll have to make some kind of adaptor as I think that is 1” ID hose.

In the gen instruction manual it notes about not cranking for long periods as water can be drawn into the motor. I’ve been reluctant to pump water through for this reason. I don’t really understand this as these motors don’t have radical cams like our hotrods do so there is not a lot of overlap in the camshaft profile so not much if any “suck back” if you will. 60 cu in displacement and less than 20 hp. I’m going to check the exhaust water port just to make sure it downstream before I pump AF through it.

Thanks again.

Byron

 

[gdavis67]

Check the outlet line of your fuel filter going to the generator from the fuel tank. Most boats have a solenoid at the outlet side as well. They have been known to quit and when they do it stops fuel from flowing from the filter to the carb. There is a position on the solenoid that you can use to bypass the solenoid for a short time to get winterized. I had a picture somewhere, but cannot find it. The original post came from another CSR member.

 

[RollerCoastr]

In the gen instruction manual it notes about not cranking for long periods as water can be drawn into the motor. I’ve been reluctant to pump water through for this reason. I don’t really understand this as these motors don’t have radical cams like our hotrods do so there is not a lot of overlap in the camshaft profile so not much if any “suck back” if you will. 60 cu in displacement and less than 20 hp. I’m going to check the exhaust water port just to make sure it downstream before I pump AF through it.

Thanks again.

Byron

That's a legit concern. It's not a "suck back" like we see with valve overlap as much as it is the muffler design: It's a water-lift. Excessive cranking or pumping into the exhaust fills the canister. Without exhaust pressure to push it out, it basically floods the exhaust system. My neighbor did just that to his 7BCG. It was a 5-figure mistake!

 

[Bentwings]

Ok, that’s exactly what I was afraid of. Something other than the motor itself. Thanks for the explanation. It’s not clear in the book. I have a couple pictures but not of the exhaust side directly. The is a hose to the rear of the exhaust casting. I could remove it and prevent water from going the last “mile”. It looks like it’s all down hill after the exhaust manifold so there may not even be much if any water in the muffler assembly. I’ll go down later today if I have to work and take pictures.

Maybe I could just squirt some AF into this port after flooding the motor mostly to get a little into the canister. I’ll take a closer look at this side today.

I really don’t need to replace the gen due to a mistake.

Thanks again. I love this board. Maybe someday I can contribute instead of asking.

Byron