Westerbeke 4.5 KW BCGTC generator blows 8 amp fuse

S

Seamonster

New Member
Aug 4, 2016
16
Virginia
Boat Info
'99 Sundancer 310
Engines
Twin 7.4's with Bravo III Drives and a
Westerbeke 4.5 KW BCGTC Genset
Hey everybody! Got a problem with my new to me, 1 year now, 1999 Sundancer 310. My Westerbeke 4.5 KW BCGTC generator has decided to blow the 8 am fuse. This installation only has remote switches, may have originally had switches at the gen, and when the on switch is pressed it blows the fuse. So, the start/stop switch is moved to the middle position and as soon as the on switch is pressed the fuse blows. Never see a green light on the start/stop switch. Haven’t tried pressing the on switch with the start/stop in the off position.

Think I understand that:
The start switch energizes the fuel pump.
Allows the engine to run until oil pressure comes up.

I unplugged the oil pressure sending unit to take it out of the loop, but still blew the fuse.
I plan to take the cover off the panel and look for any chaffed wires.

Could this be a bad fuel pump?
What else could it be and where should I look?

Thanks!
 
The 8 amp fuse is for controls .I would start with all the relay coils fuel pump and fuel valve and choke all these relay coils if shorted to ground could be popping the fuse.I found the manual for your generator on line it has a wiring diagram in the manual.
 
Thanks! I have the manual and I am going through it. Hoping for some help on what to check and how so I don't become a part replacer and you have given me some places to start.

I am using auto parts store fuses. Don’t guess this is an issue as long as correct amps?

For instance, how do i check the fuel pump with a meter, check for continuity to ground at the plug?

Do you have a favorite parts store for Westerbeke?

As an update, the fuse now blows as soon as it is installed, not sure why. Also, i found the local on and start/stop switches. They were very obscure in this installation.
 
Last edited:
Seamonster said:
Thanks! I have the manual and I am going through it. Hoping for some help on what to check and how so I don't become a part replacer and you have given me some places to start.

I am using auto parts store fuses. Don’t guess this is an issue as long as correct amps?

For instance, how do i check the fuel pump with a meter, check for continuity to ground at the plug?

Do you have a favorite parts store for Westerbeke?

As an update, the fuse now blows as soon as it is installed, not sure why. Also, i found the local on and start/stop switches. They were very obscure in this installation.
Click to expand...


1. My former gennie.

1. Fuses. The gennie has no idea where you bought the fuses. If you don't tell her, I won't!

2. Can't help you on the fuel pump. However, the problem sounds like a stray ground.

3. Favorite place = 1 of 2 is KISMET Marine. 1-888-956-6946. I have to look for the other.
 
So, how do I test for good versus bad components? Especially K1 and K2? Could they fault to ground and blow the fuse? Not sure what they do, but K2 seems to be the first connection for the fuse holder based on the diagram while K1 is mentioned in the trouble shooting guide for when it won't crank.
 
Yea, just not sure if there is some special rating other than amps for a fuse. I don't know what I don't know at this point. Obviously not an electrician, but more mechanically inclined. Where could a stray ground occur in a component or which component, outside of a chaffed wire? Thanks!
 
Seamonster said:
Yea, just not sure if there is some special rating other than amps for a fuse. I don't know what I don't know at this point. Obviously not an electrician, but more mechanically inclined. Where could a stray ground occur in a component or which component, outside of a chaffed wire? Thanks!
Click to expand...


No. There is nothing special about a fuse despite what a terribly over priced marine supply house would have you believe.

As as to thE stray ground, that is a wire by wire painful journey. BTDTGTS. I would start at the green wire busses.
 
Was the original fuse a "Fast action" or "slow burn" fuse? There are these two types and they have different applications.

You can go online and look up the differences
 
I think it was a fast action, which would make sense based on my understanding of the two types from online research.
 
Last edited:
Mine does too. The switches were well hidden by the shroud. Still not sure what the shroud is for or if something is missing from it. I think I mentioned this in a previous post.

Had an opportunity to get deeper into my trouble shooting and I started disconnection the sensors. I have found that with the oil pressure sensor disconnected I can start the generator and the fuse does not blow.

Not sure how this sensor works. Does it create continuity or generate voltage if things are OK? I am wondering if the two wires are connected could it be used if necessary. Not planning on it, but could be good information in a bind.

The sensor is beside the oil filter and I am now wondering if I need to drain the oil to switch it out?

Actually, not sure now that this is the oil pressure sending unit. Having a hard time identifying it for a part number. It is under the shroud next to the oil filter, oil filter on the side of the block and this sensor is on the belt end.
 
Last edited:
The shroud I believe is to keep big footed clumsy folk like me from using the toggle switches as a weight bearing platform!!

have you considered disconnecting the remote harness to narrow down the location of the problem? If the gennie starts and runs and provides power with raw remote disconnected, we perhaps have isolated the problem to the remote harness.
 
Must be nice to have one of those new gensets... steps to get up and down, covers to keep you from jamming a knee into those switches....yep must be nice

The sensor shuts the engine down if the pressure drops to low or goes to high. To little oil in the pan and it shuts down, it is there to protect the engine.
 
dwna1a, I am wondering how it accomplishes this. By creating a ground fault?

David, I have two of those feet myself. See my last post. I think it is solved if I can identify the sensor I disconnected and replace it.

I now believe this is the oil temperature switch.
 
Last edited:
May or may not be the sensor. I'm thinking a fault in the wiring in the remote cables that is throwing the reason for the blown fuse. IF....and this is a stab in the dark..... BUT.....if the gennie runs fine without the remote cable, the problem is in the remote start cable. If not, we are back to square one.

As to any sensor, if memory serves me, that are connected to very expensive circuit board that controls too much electronically that the reasonably prudent boater would check at every pre flight and fuel stop.
 
To be honest I'm not sure. David might know. I have one on each on my Honda pressure washers. I'm sure we could find that answer on the web tho
 
Seamonster said:
Mine does too. The switches were well hidden by the shroud. Still not sure what the shroud is for or if something is missing from it. I think I mentioned this in a previous post.

Had an opportunity to get deeper into my trouble shooting and I started disconnection the sensors. I have found that with the oil pressure sensor disconnected I can start the generator and the fuse does not blow.

Not sure how this sensor works. Does it create continuity or generate voltage if things are OK? I am wondering if the two wires are connected could it be used if necessary. Not planning on it, but could be good information in a bind.

The sensor is beside the oil filter and I am now wondering if I need to drain the oil to switch it out?

Actually, not sure now that this is the oil pressure sending unit. Having a hard time identifying it for a part number. It is under the shroud next to the oil filter, oil filter on the side of the block and this sensor is on the belt end.
Click to expand...

Hard to believe I wrote this almost 2.5 years ago: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...nerator-owners?p=747767&highlight=#post747767

There should be two oil switches on your generator both located close to the filter. The obvious concern is the amount of oil in the engine and whether or not there is pressure. Pull the one you bypassed and put in a mechanical gauge so that you can be sure that there isn't a more serious problem. It could turn out to be a pretty inexpensive sender or a problem in the downstream circuit.

John
 
If there are two wires on the oil pressure sensor it sounds as if it isn't an oil pressure sensor but the oil pressure switch. It will be open until the generator has run long enough to build up oil pressure (this is why you hold the run switch while starting the generator). If you disconnect both wires from the switch and jumper them together start the generator and the 8 amp fuse doesn't blow the switch is probably shorted internally. The on switch bypasses the water temp, exhaust temp and oil press switches and supplies power to the carb solenoid, fuel pump and coil (thru ballast resistor) so the engine can start. Water and temp are normally closed, oil press is normally open. If the fuse still blows check for a short to ground around those switches.
 
Last edited:
Vanman59, there are two wires on this and with them removed the gennie will run as long as I hold the start switch, as you mention. I have the manual and it shows an oil pressure switch on the side of the block and does not show this one at all. I guess because it is behind the belt shroud. I think I will try jumping the wires this weekend.

John, having two is starting to make sense. The one I can see on the diagram and looking at the block is about mid-block. She is full of oil, just the right amount with about 1000 hours on her. Would you expect an oil pressure problem?

Thanks to all! I will let you know what happens.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,163
Messages
1,427,599
Members
61,072
Latest member
BoatUtah12
Back
Top