well now i've done it....windlass finger stud sheared....

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by CliffA, Aug 21, 2017.

  1. Lar694

    Lar694 New Member

    20
    Nov 25, 2014
    Charleston SC
    1997 Sea Ray 290 Sundancer
    383 Stroker with bravo 3
    If needed, I am replacing mine and have all parts available. My motor housing rotted away. Let me know and I can take pics if needed.
     
  2. GCHOG

    GCHOG Member GOLD Sponsor

    52
    Mar 25, 2016
    Bass River, Viking Marina, South Jersey
    2006 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer
    6.2 Bravo III
    Hey Cliff, I have found during my daily profession that "Aerokroil" by Kano works better that PB Blaster. Not knocking PB, just seems kroil is a little better. Available at better parts stores or Amazon. Good luck ,,,
     
  3. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions
    thanks....if I can find it I may give it a try....sounds like you do mechanical work for a living....

    cliff
     
  4. boatrboy

    boatrboy Active Member

    Oct 3, 2006
    Orange, CT
    1999 270 Da
    7.4 MPI w/B3
    image.jpeg image.jpeg I've been too chicken to try pulling the stud out while its in the water. I promised myself once the boat is home for the winter I need to tackle this. I'll prepare myself for snapping the stud :)
     
  5. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions
    I believe the safest way to attempt to unscrew the stud is to remove the cap nut from the stud and pull off the washer, finger, and spring.....then screw a second regular hex nut onto the stud and put the cap nut back onto the stud....then run the regular nut up tight against the cap nut while holding the cap nut from turning.....this causes the regular nut to jamb against the cap nut and locks them both in place....then you can use an open end wrench to turn the bottom regular nut counter clockwise to try and unscrew the stud from the base plate....I would soak the stud for a while in a good penetrating oil beforehand.....

    good luck....

    cliff
     
  6. dvx216

    dvx216 Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    Feb 1, 2012
    orrville,ohio
    2000 310 sundancer 5.7 vdrives






















    n/a
    twin 5.7 300 Hp. V drives
    Drill a small hole in the cap nut put some penetrating oil in the hole let it set for a day heat it up a little with a propane torch and see if it will come off a little heat will go a long way with something that small.When your ready to put it back together put some never seize on the stud and a new nut.
     
  7. ttmott

    ttmott Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 3, 2012
    Space Coast Florida
    2006 52 Sedan Bridge
    Cummins QSM11
    That stud may not be threaded; rather many were pressed in. My Project 1 windlass had that stud press fit. If it is press fit then it will definitely shear off if you attempt to "unthread".
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2017
  8. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions
    well that is interesting to know.....wish i knew that earlier.... :( ......the new stud is threaded all the way with a small hex section for a wrench to fit on....

    cliff
     
  9. ttmott

    ttmott Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 3, 2012
    Space Coast Florida
    2006 52 Sedan Bridge
    Cummins QSM11
    Here you go - note the stud (889) locking set-screw (888); that is how you tell it is a stud and not screw. BTW, that set screw is near impossible to get out without heat.
    Windlass assy.jpg
     
  10. tdschafer

    tdschafer Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    Aug 24, 2009
    Long island , NY
    1997 330 sundancer
    twin 454's, Carb, V-Drives
    If u want to sell the finger, I'll take it as a backup if it's decent.
     
  11. boatrboy

    boatrboy Active Member

    Oct 3, 2006
    Orange, CT
    1999 270 Da
    7.4 MPI w/B3
    I checked mine and it is the threaded version. I will be double nutting, heating and possibly using my impact once the boat is in my driveway. If I get really ambitious this winter I should make a bracket and mount the shaft in double shear. I will have to remove the unit from the boat to machine it. Anyway- good luck to Cliff - Keep us posted.
    Mark
     
  12. GCHOG

    GCHOG Member GOLD Sponsor

    52
    Mar 25, 2016
    Bass River, Viking Marina, South Jersey
    2006 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer
    6.2 Bravo III
    hi guys, all good suggestions so far. Be cautious using heat on that stud/ bolt. Keep in mind the whole assembly is on fiberglas. Heat transfers quickly, and it wouldn't take much to melt the area the windlass is mounted on. IMO, if you want to use heat, removal of the whole assembly would be best. Just my 2 cents worth.
     
  13. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions
    thanks for the diagram....I think I have the threaded version of the stud...I don't remember seeing a set screw in the base plate....we are going to the boat this coming WE so i'll see if I can make the repairs then....
     
  14. Mittens

    Mittens Member

    362
    Mar 5, 2017
    Huntsville, AL
    2002 340 Sundancer, All Cherry Cabin, Black Canvas.
    8.1 Mercs, V Drives, 4.5kw Westerbeke.
    Left handed dril bits, and drill pilot hole for a easy out with the left handed bit. so if it bites, it backs it out on its own.

    if not you have hole the right size for a ease out. then remove. if threads mess up helicoil.


    if none of this works, swap to all chain, and dont use the figer at all.
     
  15. rondds

    rondds Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Oct 3, 2006
    Jersey Shore
    2001 380DA
    Merc 8.1s (2008)...Hurth ZF 63 V-drives...WB 7.0 BCGD (2013), Garmin 8208 & 740 MFDs, GMR 24xHD dome
    Can you take an intact one to a 3D printing place and have one made up? I saw that done on an episode of Wheeler Dealers. They needed a spacer fabricated to raise the suspension of some car they were rehabbing and they sketched it out and took it to a shop. They designed it on the computer and made two of them up. The guy charged them $100 a piece. That sounded too inexpensive to me but it worked and took about 30 minutes.
     
  16. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions

    I found a pic of the windlass on a 2001 340 like mine on the net....you can tell from the pic that there is no set screw holding the stud in place on this model....so it looks like this model uses a threaded stud...

    cliff

    windlass.JPG
     
  17. Mittens

    Mittens Member

    362
    Mar 5, 2017
    Huntsville, AL
    2002 340 Sundancer, All Cherry Cabin, Black Canvas.
    8.1 Mercs, V Drives, 4.5kw Westerbeke.
    the progress 1000 is made 2 ways as spoke about above. the finger, spring, and studs are different.

    the set screw is POST 2002, and the other is pre 2002. when ordering parts.
     
  18. boatrboy

    boatrboy Active Member

    Oct 3, 2006
    Orange, CT
    1999 270 Da
    7.4 MPI w/B3
    Update - Here is the modification I made to strengthen my Lofrans unit. The stud broke and had to be drilled out along with one of the bolts that hold the cap on. I decided to make a new threaded stud with a wrench flat in the middle BUT make it longer and add the bracket you see to support the end of the new stud. To remove the stud I remove the two socket caps and lift the bracket up. I really don't think I should have to remove the stud as the first on lasted 18 years before bending and this is a better design - imho. I may pretty it up a bit and will have it anodized so I am ready to reinstall for the sping time.
    Mark
    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  19. Little Ducky

    Little Ducky Active Member

    509
    Jun 5, 2017
    Chattanooga TN/Dickson TN
    1998 SeaRay 290 Sundancer
    Twin 5.0L w/Alpha 1 drives
    That looks really good.
     

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