well now i've done it....windlass finger stud sheared....

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by CliffA, Aug 21, 2017.

  1. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions
    I have a Lofrans Progress 1 windlass....I have recently been going through all my anchoring system to insure it is in good working order.....the threaded stud that the tension finger mounts on had been bent a little in the past....not sure when or how....and the spring for the tension finger had weakened over time to the point it would not hold the rode tight enough in the gypsy...so I bought a new stud, spring, washer, and cap nut for the tension finger to rebuild the tension finger assembly....looking at the job I thought this job should take about 2 mins......

    boy was I wrong.....I won't go into the details but bottom line I sheared off the stainless steal stud flush with the windlass bottom plate....so now I have to figure out how to remove the sheared stud from the plate....

    I thought about using a carbide drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the stud to drill out as much of the sheared stud as possible....then use a small chisel or screwdriver to remove the remaining perimeter of the sheared stud....

    anyone have any other ideas how to remove the sheared stud?

    thanks....
    cliff
     
  2. BillK2632

    BillK2632 Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Jun 25, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    1999 185 Bowrider,
    Mercruiser 4.3, Alpha I
    We were talking about this Saturday - when I broke mine it sheared off flush also. I soaked it with PBBlaster and used an easy out - I had to drill a hole into the broken stud, the hammer the easy out into the stud and reverse it out. Slow, easy and patient.
     
  3. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    I feel you pain. Been there plenty of times. Stainless is a great material, but it's softer than regular steel and is therefore more prone to snapping off, as you found. Have found that there is no "one best" way to remove it, either. But I agree with Bill and would start there. Look around (easy to find) for a "screw extractor" kit (probably $15). As Bill said, they're often referred to as an EZ-Out.

    Tap the broken stud with a good couple of whacks - helps ("helps", doesn't "fix") to loosen any corrosion/salt in between the threads. Then maybe even heat it up a bit. Then a couple days of PB Blaster, a few times a day. Then the extractor. I've found that an impact driver, with lot's of downward pressure, slow on the trigger, seems to work very well.
     
  4. scoflaw

    scoflaw Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    Aug 10, 2011
    cape cod mass
    1999 Powerquest legend 260 sx
    502 mpi Bravo 1
    left handed drill bits, may just back out on its own
     
  5. NotHerDecision

    NotHerDecision Active Member PLATINUM Sponsor GOLD Sponsor

    904
    Jun 28, 2016
    Houston, Texas
    2001 Sea Ray 460 Sundancer
    2014 Seadoo 155 LTD
    2105 Seadoo 130 SE
    2013 Mercury Dinghy
    Cummins 6CTA 8.3L
    I second the left hand bits... I have a set from Irwin that are hardened. Plenty of PB Blaster and SLOW

    Josh
     
  6. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions
    thanks for the replies....

    the stud is 8mm...I looked at a chart by Irwin and it says to use a 3/16" drill bit along with a 3/16" multi spline hex head extractor....so I am think of getting a 3/16" left hand cobalt drill bit and a 3/16" hex head extractor and give it a try....

    the hole in the tension finger has enlarged over time to the point the finger does not fit snuggly on the stud....I was thinking about using JB Weld to fill the hole in the finger and then once it cures drill a 8mm hole in the JB Weld for the stud to pass through.....anyone see any issues with this?...the fingers are not made any more so replacing it is not an option.....

    cliff

    41XmcSLSAmL__SX355_.jpg 51cQp4eUVtL__SX355_.jpg
     
  7. BillK2632

    BillK2632 Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Jun 25, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    1999 185 Bowrider,
    Mercruiser 4.3, Alpha I
    Yep, that's pretty much what I used to get mine out - trick is you drill a pilot hole for the extractor, since the extractor has basically a reverse drill bit, as you run the drill in reverse, the extractor is drilling down and "bites" into the sheared bolt turning it out.

    On the finger, the JB Weld thing might work, I would be more inclined to try to find something that would work as a bushing to tighten the finger up on the bolt. Thing is be careful with that finger since you can't get another one.
     
  8. wayne0

    wayne0 Member

    250
    May 4, 2014
    Newburyport, Ma.
    2000 340 Sundancer
    Twin 7.4 ltr.V-drives
    +1 on the bushing!
     
  9. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions
    so i ordered the left hand drill bit and the extractor and an 8mm bronze bushing for the finger.....not sure if I will get to the boat this WE or not to make the repair.....i'll post results after the repair....

    cliff
     
  10. rcknecht

    rcknecht Active Member

    Mar 23, 2009
    toms river,nj
    340 Sundancer 2001
    T 454 MPI
    I did the same thing... Used an easy out to get the bolt out and cleaned the threads with a tap... It was an easy job....
     
  11. Little Ducky

    Little Ducky Active Member

    503
    Jun 5, 2017
    Chattanooga TN/Dickson TN
    1998 SeaRay 290 Sundancer
    Twin 5.0L w/Alpha 1 drives
    I'm surprised no one has come up with a retrofit kit to install a new style finger in place of the one that is NLA.
     
    tdschafer likes this.
  12. ttmott

    ttmott Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 3, 2012
    Space Coast Florida
    2006 52 Sedan Bridge
    Cummins QSM11
    You might consider simply drilling out that stud then threading the hole SAE and fitting a shouldered fastener.
    That is what I did and it has been working fine for 4 years now. Here is a source to 316 SST shouldered fasteners:https://www.mcmaster.com/#shoulder-screws/=191vg23
     
  13. skibum

    skibum Well-Known Member

    Jul 30, 2007
    Perry Hall, MD
    2005 Sundancer 260
    496 Magnum HO
    Had you considered a helicoil, or a time sert?
     
  14. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions

    only as a last resort.....I think I can get the sheared stud out.....

    cliff
     
  15. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions

    thanks.....I did not consider that but will keep this in mind if things don't go as planned....

    cliff
     
  16. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions
    kind of surprised me too.....

    cliff
     
  17. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions

    I hope I have the same luck.....

    cliff
     
  18. tdschafer

    tdschafer Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    Aug 24, 2009
    Long island , NY
    1997 330 sundancer
    twin 454's, Carb, V-Drives
    I ordered a replacement spring for mine last year. The customer service rep that I spoke with said that he gets calls frequently for those fingers. He also said that he pleaded with the company to keep making them but was shut down. I guess they just want people to buy new units.
    I wonder if Dale (Masterfab) can make replacement fingers & if so, what the cost would be.
     
  19. CliffA

    CliffA Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 29, 2009
    Lake Norman, NC
    2001 Sea Ray 340DA
    Name: 'Happy Place'
    4.5kW West. Generator
    Purchased Nov. 2014
    Fresh Water Use
    Twin Merc. 6.2L (MPI)
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drive Transmissions

    I bet it would not be too difficult to make a replacement finger out of starboard......I have some 3/4" white starboard lying around my shop so I may give it a shot.....

    cliff
     
  20. tdschafer

    tdschafer Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    Aug 24, 2009
    Long island , NY
    1997 330 sundancer
    twin 454's, Carb, V-Drives
    Keep us posted! You may have a money making idea here!!
     

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