Water leak while running

before you draw any conclusion be sure to check the bolt in the center of the oil filter adapter on the block. If that is loose the oil drips down and makes it appear to be the flare fittings leaking. A quick check with an open end wrench will tell you.
 
before you draw any conclusion be sure to check the bolt in the center of the oil filter adapter on the block. If that is loose the oil drips down and makes it appear to be the flare fittings leaking. A quick check with an open end wrench will tell you.

Thanks, I'll do that as well. I'm going to check all 3 of these fittings before I order/remove anything. I'm guessing the one you mean is #12?
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FYI, get a few cans of NON-chlorinated Brakleen (green can). Spray everything down real well to get rid of existing oil. Makes it easier to find the leak. DON'T use the red can - bad, bad, bad for enclosed areas - chlorine gas. You could also think about dye for the engine oil.
 
yes #12 the center mounting bolt.

So at the boat now and both of those center nuts AND the fitting nuts are very loose. Gotta run and buy a couple larger spanners to tighten that center nut but that might be the problem (or at least part of it). The whole assembly can be moved by hand right now because it’s so loose.
 
I'm going to sound super cheap but these are expensive hoses, so:

I have to get the fittings off at the block side in order to tighten the center mounting nut. There's just not enough room to get a wrench on it, even with the exhaust manifolds off.

Once i have the hose off, do you guys think its possible to block one side with a pipe fitting or similar and just pressurize the hose while in submerged in water or sprayed with soap? I know, just replace them, but I'd like to know whether they're leaking or not.
 
Also, anyone know what the sizes of the fittings and center locking nut are? I know one is 3/4, but I need to go buy new wrenches and need to get the right sizes in the larger ones.
 
Using two wrenches- loosen the flare nut a couple turns(#9). Hold onto the oil line bent portion(under #9) so it doesn't spin while you tighten the center bolt(#12). Then retighten the flare nut(#9). Give it a try, not quite easy but cheap.
 
Awesome thanks. Any idea of the sizes of #12 and #9? Both are bigger than the wrenches I had in my toolbox


Also, I took off the #8 hose. Plugged one end with a finger and put 20lbs of air in the other while the crimps were under water and both of them bubbles like crazy. I guess I need new afterall.
 
I just changed my hoses today and found items #11 and #13 needed replacement also. These gaskets are inexpensive and changing could preclude another oil leak hunt.
 
I just changed my hoses today and found items #11 and #13 needed replacement also. These gaskets are inexpensive and changing could preclude another oil leak hunt.

I’ll get those too. Do you remember what the wrench sizes were? I’m going to grab the crows feet set for the center nut.
 
Dear god what a job. I have the hoses and adapter off both engines finally. It’s a 1-5/16” crows foot, 7/8 for the center line and 3/4 for the other.

Once I get the new parts what’s the best order of operations on reinstalling? My though is the center nut first, but I’ll have to somehow hold the adapter in place from spinning so the hole lines up for the return hose. Merc says 20 lb-ft for all fittings, so at least I won’t have to crank them down.
 
Wanted to resurrect this and see what you guys think. Gearing up to get the boat in the water and since I have all new hoses on the remote oil filter I'm wondering if there is any need to prime the oil system? My understanding is the MEFI won't fire the motor until it gets some oil pressure, and I did pre-fill the new hoses from the filter base. The new oil filter will have to fill up, but that's no different than a normal oil change.
 

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