Warning buzzer, no power over 3000 rpm

[bbeaumont5]

My boat's a 1998 Sea Ray 270 DA with low hours (~360). It was put through its paces through distance and weather (using a FULL TANK of fuel) as it followed the Annaleise Carr swim across Lake Ontario (see story here: http://thestar.blogs.com/newsnow/2012/08/reporting-annaleise-carrs-lake-ontario-crossing.html)

Unfortunately, now I'm running into problems.

I'm getting a warning buzzer at idle; it comes on about 5-10 seconds after starting the motor, but then turns off after I apply any throttle. It returns if I bring it back down to idle. Not only that, but I no longer have power over 3000 RPM, which means I cannot even get on plain.

The prevailing thoery on the dock is that I sucked up the top of the fuel tank and the fuel filter needs to be changed. Knowing the previous owner, I'm not sure it's ever been changed prior. However, I'm unsure how the fuel filter would generate the buzzer - my manual says it's wired to Temp, gear oil level, oil pressure, & battery voltage - none of which seem off.

Any thoughts?

 

[scoflaw]

My guess is that you have 2 problems going on, and the buzzer is not related to the low RPM's

If that engine is scanable then check it out. If not, then start disconnecting systems 1 at a time to locate the source of the buzzer.

The low RPM issue could very well be fuel related, and if a filter change doesn't fix it, check your fuel pressure under power.

 

[Lazy Daze]

IF it's wired to the battery voltage, I'm not aware of that. The others... yes. And, you're thinking correctly that they have no impact on the power issue.

Now, both your engine temp and oil pressure gauges get their reading from their own sensor (actually referred to as a sender). The buzzer gets it reading from separate sensors. Meaning, for example, your oil pressure gauge (gets it reading from the sender) may read normal, but the buzzer may be sounding because the oil pressure sensor is flaky.

Do your gauges read normal? Did you physically check your oil level?

Now, for the power issue - yes, I would change the filter since that's a good thing to do anyways and it's very easy. Some other things to check would be plugs, cap/rotor, etc. Are the plug wires hooked up properly?

 

[bbeaumont5]

ohh... @#$%, This may be worse then I first thought...

Went down to take off the fuel filter and saw that we clearly had a miscommunication. Buzzer's explained... the gear oil res was dry. It was full before I left on the long trip, so who knows what's going on in the skeg suddenly; I can only hope the power loss isn't due to some binding/seizing...

I'm going to refill, change the oil filter anyway, then see if it holds... but it may be the end of my season. Depending on cost, it may be the end of my boating for another year as well.

I wonder what a rebuild on a B3 will cost?

I'll keep the forum posted. Thank you for the advice everybody.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Wait! You might get lucky... Check for fluid in the drive BEFORE you refill or use the boat. Remove the "vent" screw to check for fluid. The buzzer will sound before the drive is actually low on fluid.

I still think power loss is unrelated. If the gears were that bad, you'd have zippo in terms of power.

How long did you run the engine with the buzzer sounding? FYI: warning buzzers mean STOP unless safety conditions warrant to keep running.

You mention changing the oil filter. Why?

 

[bbeaumont5]

@Lazy Daze; I meant to say gas filter instead of oil filter -- Guess it's a the more common one automotive-speaking.

Unfortunately, I have no way of checking on the vent screw until I pull the boat... I've already had to do it for a bellows replacement this year, and it's a $1000 endeavour just to pull, block, and drop back in. At this point, it's and end to my season.

I was going to drop a bottle of fluid in today -- I wanted to have the res full before I move it again, even to the dock for pull-out. I haven't even gone for pump-out from the trip yet!

 

[Lazy Daze]

Just be careful. Even if the reservoir is full, it doesn't mean the fluid made it down into the drive (if it, in fact, is empty down there as well - which it may not be). That fluid is thick - doesn't flow very fast through a small hose. Plus, it has to displace the air as it goes (air bubbles).

What you could do is to remove the hose from the bottle, snake the hose aft and then drop it down towards the bilge into a small container. See how quickly (and how much) fluid comes out. If you get a decent amount (compared to the size of the hose) then that "should" mean the drive still has fluid in it. Use a white container as it's easier to see the quality of the fluid.

But, either way, I would advise against pursuing the engine operation problem until you verify if you have fluid.

It would not have to be blocked - it can be checked right on the lift. It's a very, very quick process.

Does anyone have a trailer that you can borrow?