Voltage Issue/Electrical connection

Cris Nauta

New Member
Oct 11, 2019
9
Boat Info
1994 Sea Ray Signature 170
Engines
3.0L Mercruiser
Good morning. I have a 1994 Sea Ray Signature 170 with an electrical issue. Last week while cruising, I started getting a "low battery alarm" note on my depth finder and the volt meter was fluctuating around 11 to 12 volts and the depth finder would go off on low voltage. And sometimes all of the dash gauges readings started bouncing around. It ran and started just fine. Yesterday I charged the battery and got 12.7a at rest, removed and cleaned the ground cable connection where it bolts to the engine/bulkhead and took it back to the lake. Started and ran great, no problems for first 20 minutes and then same problems. Took it back home, checked the battery and got 12.7 amps. Started it up on muffs and got 14.6 amps at the alternator and battery.
So, I'm presuming a have a loose or bad connection somewhere. And after looking at the electrical schematic, it looks the red/purple wire is the main feed from the battery/alternator up to the cockpit. Any advice on where to start looking? Than you.
 
How about a voltage reading with the engine running?

sometimes when an alternator is going bad, it’ll work fine at idle speed but cut out above 1,000 rpm.
 
I got 14.7 with engine running, but did not fluctuate rpm's. Alternator was new last summer.
 
Let us know how the test run goes. See if it maintains the 14v while operating under load in the higher rpm range.
 
How old is the battery? Just a FYI, you're checking voltage, not amperage.
It almost sounds like you're battery could be going bad.
You can take it into a auto parts store and they can load test it.
 
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Should have an Orange wire from the alt output going directly to the main post on the starter, from there it goes thru the 50A CB , thru the main harness plug, then to the dash
 
Thanks guys, will follow up on voltage test tomorrow. Both battery and alternator were replaced last Spring.
Thanks for the correction, wyrman. voltage, not amperage.
Question, if the battery is going bad, wouldn't the voltage from the orange output on alternator provide the 14.7 amps to the dash regardless?
Since I have had the boat (2 years now) the volt meter and the voltage readout on the depth finder have never shown 14.7V, usually hovers around 12. What should they read.
Last question; are the gauges bouncing their reading typical of low voltage?

Thank you, your help is a blessing.
 
Thanks guys, will follow up on voltage test tomorrow. Both battery and alternator were replaced last Spring.
Thanks for the correction, wyrman. voltage, not amperage.
Question, if the battery is going bad, wouldn't the voltage from the orange output on alternator provide the 14.7 amps to the dash regardless?
Since I have had the boat (2 years now) the volt meter and the voltage readout on the depth finder have never shown 14.7V, usually hovers around 12. What should they read.
Last question; are the gauges bouncing their reading typical of low voltage?

Thank you, your help is a blessing.
The gauges in the dash are not that accurate. Sometimes it’s the quality of the guage, some boat builders cut the corner and run too small of wire to the guage. I just use it for a reference, when it’s right, where is it normally
 
If you think there is a issue run a test lead from the alt output directly to the purple wire at the gauges
 
Getting back to all who have helped. Took it on the lake today and tested voltage at several rpm's. Alternator working at idle and 2000. Got 13.5 to purple wire off of alternator. The boat started and ran perfectly but still having problems with all the gauges going off and on. On a whim, crawled under the dash while idling and checked voltage of the purple where it connects to the key switch and got 13.5V. While fiddling with the wiring, my wife shouted out that playing with the wire was making the gauges go off and on. Purple comes into the key switch and then daisy chains from gauge to gauge. I think I got it, the connection at the back of the switch seemed tight, but obviously this is where my problem lies. Hopefully I'll take it apart, clean it and that should fix it.
Thank you to all for your help.
Cris
 
Take each one off, clean the connectors and clean the posts, put back together. Borrow your wife's nail file, the emory board kind. I have several in my tool box. Easier than sand paper or a file and gets the metal nice and shiny. Check. It's a laborious process but really the only way to find the problem. It sounds to me like you have a wire that is about to break at the connector. Strip the wire back a little, put on a new connector.
 
I have exactly that problem with my nav lights. No ground. Haven't found the spot yet, but then I put my boat back in storage because I'm self isolating.
 
Problem solved. I feel like a dofus, but after checking and ensuring all of the purple wire connections were tight and clean under the dash everything would work until I would rock the boat a little or turn the steering wheel. So I started checking anything that might be near the steering linkage and found the big multi wire connection block was loose! It looked fine but was just loose enough for only the purple wire to break contact.
Took it out yesterday and it runs and works like new. Thanks to all for your help and advice. Happy boy.
 

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