Vinylester Hull Protection

[Jimmy Buoy]

A recent thread regarding "Blistering" that looked like chickenpox on an older SR model has me curious.

In particular, one response to the writer suggests that "since this older hull is not of vinylester construction it would be wise to apply a good barrier coat, protecting the hull from additional blistering after the repair" (or something to that effect).

Newer SR models including mine have vinylester hull construction. Are these hulls less prone to blistering or should they be protected with barrier coat just like any other hull?:huh:

 

[fwebster]

Blisters are almost non-existent on vinylester hulls. If you keep your boat long enough you may occasionally get a blister or 2 but they will be isolated and you won't see blister-pox like the boat in the thread you referenced. Barrier coating a vinylester hull isn't usually necessary.

 

[jcastle]

It is not as necessary for vinylester construction, but a good barrier coat system on the bottom of the boat also aids in bottom paint adhesion and durability. If you dont have bottom paint on the bottom already, or plan to sand the bottom paint off, I would put on a good barrier coat prior to repainting with bottom paint.

Tuff Stuff Marine Epoxy Barrier Coat is a good easy to use product.

 

[sbw1]

It is not as necessary for vinylester construction, but a good barrier coat system on the bottom of the boat also aids in bottom paint adhesion and durability. If you dont have bottom paint on the bottom already, or plan to sand the bottom paint off, I would put on a good barrier coat prior to repainting with bottom paint.

Tuff Stuff Marine Epoxy Barrier Coat is a good easy to use product.

You need to be very careful when sanding the bottom of a boat with a vinylester bottom. It can void the warranty on a boat which in our case is a 5 year warranty. Ablative paint minimizes the need for sanding since a good power washing does a fine job of preparing the bottom for a fresh coating.

 

[Presentation]

I go with without protection.

I can feel the difference. It makes me go faster too. :smt043

 

[ghuskin]

I go with without protection.

I can feel the difference. It makes me go faster too. :smt043

And how many kids do you have?

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

Thanks guys. I had no idea that this "Vinylester" material was any better to resist blistering than previous methods.:smt038

So, CSR just saved me another "boat buck" :thumbsup:since I will now simply retouch the bottom paint with instead of totally stripping and starting with a barrier coat like I was contemplating.:grin:

 

[Skuza]

I go with without protection.

I can feel the difference. It makes me go faster too. :smt043

:smt043:smt043

 

[Escapade]

After the gel coat is applied inside our hulls they spray in a layer of VE resin over the gel. This is let to set, and then they start the laminate of our hulls w/ glass. The VE behind our gel coat does not allow water absorption into the glass fibers. It is a laminate barrier. On older hulls they put a veil of glass down then the laminate. This was directly on top of the gel coat. Once water penetrated the gel it could pass into glass fibers drawing the blister.

So... technically Presentation "IS" Protected!

 

[Don Sr]

After the gel coat is applied inside our hulls they spray in a layer of VE resin over the gel. This is let to set, and then they start the laminate of our hulls w/ glass. The VE behind our gel coat does not allow water absorption into the glass fibers. It is a laminate barrier. On older hulls they put a veil of glass down then the laminate. This was directly on top of the gel coat. Once water penetrated the gel it could pass into glass fibers drawing the blister.

So... technically Presentation "IS" Protected!

Keep this type of behavior up and you will have a wrench and screw driver before you know it. :lol:

 

[88dancer300]

Hi Jay. I've got a 1988 sundancer 300. It has a good amount of bottom paint on it, and flaking in many many areas, right down to the gellcoat, some as large as 4 inches square. The gell looks pretty porous. I am going to strip the hull down, and want to barrier coat it. I looked at the link to the tuff stuff product that you refered to, and I like what I read. I'm wondering how much of this product I would need to do the three recommended coats on my 30 footer? Have you used it? Thanx, Dave

 

[jcastle]

Hi Jay. I've got a 1988 sundancer 300. It has a good amount of bottom paint on it, and flaking in many many areas, right down to the gellcoat, some as large as 4 inches square. The gell looks pretty porous. I am going to strip the hull down, and want to barrier coat it. I looked at the link to the tuff stuff product that you refered to, and I like what I read. I'm wondering how much of this product I would need to do the three recommended coats on my 30 footer? Have you used it? Thanx, Dave

I have used it. You need almost double the amount of bottom paint. Two coats will give you plenty of thickness and protection. You need about 4 gallons of epoxy and at least two gallons of bottom paint.

 

[88dancer300]

Thanx. By the way, why so much bottom paint after barrier coating?

 

[Molson]

I know this is quite old, but I'm getting the bottom of my 330 blasted soon and looking to repaint, if my 97 is vinylester, I'll skip right to paint and avoid the $500.00 worth of epoxy. Anyone know when they started using vinylester?

 

[fwebster]

I am not sure, but probably the mid-80's. If you haven't found any blisters by now, keep doing what you have been doing re: bottom protection.

 

[Molson]

I am not sure, but probably the mid-80's. If you haven't found any blisters by now, keep doing what you have been doing re: bottom protection.

I can't see any at the moment, but I'll have a better look once its blasted. Thanks Frank.