Vacuflush winterizing.

MonacoMike

Well-Known Member
Sep 15, 2009
14,721
Indiana lakes and Lake Michigan
Boat Info
2000 Cruisers 3870
8.2 Mercs
Engines
85 Sea Ray Monaco 197
260hp Alpha 1
Oh crap. I used the alcohol type for my water sytem including the head. I guess maybe the alcohol may damage the duckbills?
Think I might just flush some propylene based antifreeze in it now and hope for the best.
 
I have used the pink stuff for years and never had a problem... Next thing you know they will say that urea will damage the duck bills..
 
Always use RV type (pink or green) polyprop. type for winterizing
 
There are different types of "Pink" one is ethyl alcohol base, the other is polypropolene base which is the old (now more expensive) standby. Camco is marketing both
 
There are different types of "Pink" one is ethyl alcohol base, the other is polypropolene base which is the old (now more expensive) standby. Camco is marketing both

Ethyl based is generally used for engine cooling and prop. for winterizing pipes, etc. You are correct in that you can get both in pink color so need to watch the labels.
 
There are different types of "Pink" one is ethyl alcohol base, the other is polypropolene base which is the old (now more expensive) standby. Camco is marketing both

Ethyl based is generally used for engine cooling and prop. for winterizing pipes, etc. You are correct in that you can get both in pink color so need to watch the labels.

This is the one we should use in our boats.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=7813

We could use this ONLY in the potable water system, but why buy two products and then I still don't know what the water heater manufacturer says is acceptable for their product.

http://automotive.hardwarestore.com/89-548-anti-freeze/artic-ban-rv-antifreeze-631524.aspx

I'll post the description of the latter. "Safe and tasteless for fresh water and plumbing systems of boats, RVs, homes, and trailers. Protects from bursting to -60 degrees Fahrenheit. Blend of propylene glycol and denatured alcohol. Not recommended in marine engines, marine toilets or as heat transfer fluid."

I'm not so cheap as to not buy the proper antifreeze. It does not show up in one winter, but in less life of the parts it harms, and more duckbill replacements. :grin: MM
 
Good thinking to post about that, Mike. I agree with your line of thinking... keep things simple and just use one type of AF. We've got enough things in life that are complicated.
 
Do you leave the pressure in the vacuflush system over winter?

Doing indoor heated this winter, and I'm thinking that it probably makes sense to flush with the head system off before storing?
 
I honestly don't know what is recommended (if anything) by Dometic. But I agree - I always kill the power on the last flush of AF. Remember to manually fill the bowl about 1/4 of the way with AF after you're done.
 
Seems to make sense. I checked as many docs as I could find.

As for the antifreeze, I'm good this year-- none needed. Indoor heated :)
 
As for the antifreeze, I'm good this year-- none needed. Indoor heated :)

Running some through the system helps to "wet" the seals and duckbills to keep them lubricated for their long winter's nap. Pouring some into the bowl (and leaving it there) does the same thing for the seal around the flushing valve.
 
Running some through the system helps to "wet" the seals and duckbills to keep them lubricated for their long winter's nap. Pouring some into the bowl (and leaving it there) does the same thing for the seal around the flushing valve.

Wouldn't water so the same thing? (not trying to be argumentative, new at all this, and just looking to understand whats best)
 
Wouldn't water so the same thing? (not trying to be argumentative, new at all this, and just looking to understand whats best)

No problem, at all. Water would be "OK" for in the toilet - although, it will evaporate faster than the pink (although it's unlikely that a couple cups worth of water will evaporate in a few months time). However, the pink stuff still does a better job at let's call it "conditioning" the seals. Both the one there in the toilet and the others in the downstream section. Nothing < Water < Pink.

For the cost of 1 gallon of pink... I'll be happy to throw that money away if it means I don't have to tear into the head system to replace things quite so soon.:smt001

Don't forget to clean around the bottom side of the toilet seal (with the flush valve open) every once in a while. Don't use any harsh chemicals, either - Sealand/Dometic makes a good cleaner/conditioner that is meant specifically for our systems.

PSU '95, by the way!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,163
Messages
1,427,599
Members
61,072
Latest member
BoatUtah12
Back
Top