Using your fresh water system in winter

Dave S

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TECHNICAL Contributor
Oct 3, 2006
6,014
Upstate South Carolina
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First of all I want to emphasize that each boat's freshwater system is a bit different so what works for me may not work for you or your boat. But if you have a cruiser that is in a wet slip and you are a winter boater and have a bilge heater and a cabin heater, it is real nice to be able to use your freshwater sytem (and your head :grin: ) and still keep everything protected from freezing. Here in our area we are generally below freezing at night (it was 19 last night) but above freezing in the daytime but we occasionally have days where the temperature remains below freezing all day long. Our lake water will drop into the 40's during the coldest part of winter.

On our 260DA, the freshwater tank, the hot water heater, the holding tank for the head, and the water pump are in the bilge. So a bilge heater will keep them from freezing. But there are freshwater lines that run up to the transom and into the cockpit. There are no real good ways to keep these lines and faucets from freezing unless they are drained. In the 2005 and up 260DA's, Sea Ray started to use flexible lines with screw on fittings for the freshwater system. All of the connections to the water pump are right in the bilge so it's easy to get to these fittings. In the 260DA, there are three lines that need to be disconnected and drained. These three lines feed the hot/cold transom shower, the faucet that is in the Lazarette (as well as the dockside hose connection) and the faucet in the cockpit sink. All you need to do to drain those lines is to first turn off your water pump and then open the faucets to relieve any built up water pressure. Next unscrew the fittngs in the bilge, let them drain, and then cap the male ends. I bought three knurled plastic caps at Home Depot and some teflon tape to do this job. Wrap the pipes with teflon tape and then simply screw on the caps by hand. Turn the pump back on and check for leaks at the caps..........It's that simple. Here is a picture of the caps attached to the "manifold" plumbing.
DSC02680.jpg


When we leave the boat at the end of the day, we also leave the doors open under the sink in the galley and the head so heat circulates better to the plumbing in there. Like wise we turn off the freshwater pump and open the faucets in the cabin to relieve all water pressure. In addition, I prop open the door to my head because there is no heating duct in there.
 
Nice overview Dave! Is it safe to assume that the manifold is installed at the lowest point in the system? I.e., are you sure when you disconnect and drain the individual lines that there's no water trapped at a lower point somewhere in the line?
 
prodigalson said:
Nice overview Dave! Is it safe to assume that the manifold is installed at the lowest point in the system? I.e., are you sure when you disconnect and drain the individual lines that there's no water trapped at a lower point somewhere in the line?

That's correct.
 
Dave,
What do you use to cover the exhaust at the sides to prevent heat from escaping from the bilge? Also, what is the lowest water temperature you can have to keep the A/C from freezing since this is water cooled? I am having my bilge heater installed next Tuesday.
-Ron
 
nina and plum said:
Dave,
What do you use to cover the exhaust at the sides to prevent heat from escaping from the bilge? Also, what is the lowest water temperature you can have to keep the A/C from freezing since this is water cooled? I am having my bilge heater installed next Tuesday.
-Ron

I don't cover mine...........and your heat pump shouldn't freeze unless your lake freezes solid........if that happens you have a pretty serious problem that goes way beyond the heat pump not working. :grin: :wink:
 
bilge heater

Dave, I just had my bilge heater installed. I will have to buy a thermometer to make sure it is doing its job. They attached it on the underside of the deck floor on the right if you are facing the engine. Heat moves upward so I thought they would install it in the bottom or close to the bottom. That's why I'll get a thermometer to make sure it heats up correctly. Where did you get those caps for the hoses? and what size were they?
-Ron
 
Re: bilge heater

nina and plum said:
Dave, I just had my bilge heater installed. I will have to buy a thermometer to make sure it is doing its job. They attached it on the underside of the deck floor on the right if you are facing the engine. Heat moves upward so I thought they would install it in the bottom or close to the bottom. That's why I'll get a thermometer to make sure it heats up correctly. Where did you get those caps for the hoses? and what size were they?
-Ron

I hate to be the bearer of bad news Ron, but you are not supposed to mount that heater upside down, You can check Boat Safe's web site yourself since they have the installation instructions on line .http://www.boatsafeheaters.com/model-BSAT.html This quote is directly from that page on their site:


Mount the unit with screws through the four mounting holes in the mounting feet. The unit should be mounted on metal or a marine rated wood surface in the engine compartment. Do not mount the unit upside down under the deck. Mounting must take place in an area free and clear of loose material that could come in contact with the heater. You should allow a minimum six inch clearance from the vents to the closest object.


As far as the caps are concerned, they are 3/4 inch threaded plastic caps which I bought at Home Depot. You also need teflon plumbing tape to wrap the male threads with. Then simply screw on the caps by hand. Turn your water pump back on and check for leaks at the caps. I also recommend turning off the water pump when you are not at the boat and opening your faucets in the cabin to relieve the water pressure. I also turn off the breaker for the hot water tank as well
 
Dave S said:
But if you have a cruiser that is in a wet slip and you are a winter boater and have a bilge heater and a cabin heater, it is real nice to be able to use your freshwater sytem (and your head :grin: ) and still keep everything protected from freezing.

Thanks Dave! Of course, you can also run pink through the entire fresh water system to protect it. Other than saving some money on pink antifreeze, is there an advantage to disassembling and capping the manifold?
 
thunderbird1 said:
Dave S said:
But if you have a cruiser that is in a wet slip and you are a winter boater and have a bilge heater and a cabin heater, it is real nice to be able to use your freshwater sytem (and your head :grin: ) and still keep everything protected from freezing.

Thanks Dave! Of course, you can also run pink through the entire fresh water system to protect it. Other than saving some money on pink antifreeze, is there an advantage to disassembling and capping the manifold?

As I said, we use our water system in the winter. The caps are for those lines that will freeze because they are not in an area that can be kept heated (cockpit sink, transom shower, etc.).
 
Thanks for the clarification Dave -- I had assumed that you use your fresh water system (toilet) with antifreeze mixed in. I had some fittings crack in my old boat last winter, so I'm too risk adverse to keep the head operational without antifreeze. I do like the idea of issolating the stern shower and hot water heater by capping the manifold -- I'll try that next year.
 

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