Trolling with a 340 Express & Transducers????

B

Bobsuruncle

New Member
Oct 15, 2013
14
Mississauga, Ontario Canada
Boat Info
340 Express
Engines
Twin 454 Mercruisers
Has anyone mounted a transducer on this model of Sea Ray?

I really dont want to drill holes in the transom if at all possible.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Bobsuruncle
 
Well, do you want to go through hull? Does the boat already have electronics? What type of electronics are you installing?
 
Hey, thanks for responding Jason

Looking to install a Lowrance HDI Elite 7. Right now I have a Lowrance HDS 5m (Gen 2) which is strictly a GPS. I'm looking to have a GPS and sonar combo. Dont want to clutter the view with 2 separate units.

Thanks
Bob
 
A thru-hull is the better choice although, a stern mount trans can be just as good if mounted properly. Holes are going to be drilled either way. My opinion is based on a lot of reading and no real world experience, I'm in the process of the same project.


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Bobsuruncle said:
Hey, thanks for responding Jason

Looking to install a Lowrance HDI Elite 7. Right now I have a Lowrance HDS 5m (Gen 2) which is strictly a GPS. I'm looking to have a GPS and sonar combo. Dont want to clutter the view with 2 separate units.

Thanks
Bob
Click to expand...

I installed a Simrad B60 Thru-Hull for my HDS-5(Gen2) in my 260 last year an I love it. The thru-hull install is pretty easy and spent more time running cables. Just make sure you match the tilt angle and dead rise.

Also, drilling a BIG hole in the bottom of your boat is not for the faint of heart but is not really a big deal. I sealed it well with 4200 sealant and it has been great. While not hard having an extra hand around to help would be great. That way one person can be outside and the other in the engine room. There are some videos out there showing how to do a one man install.

I have some pictures that I can post if you like. I am not sure about the HDI and HDS but I do know the HDS can work together to share data if interested in multiple displays.
 
Through hull with 20° element transducer. Go with bronze 100%. That is the way to go. I have the same hull so if I can help I'm here.
 
I believe you have a single-layer hull, so you could go with a shoot-thru transducer. But in most cases, it's simpler and faster to do a through hull - plus it has a better view - not that a shoot-thru is bad, but in comparison...

Glass in a reinforcing block that is first sealed with resin (unless you can find and unused one), drill the big hole, chamfer the edges, seal the edges with resin and then use your sealant. Good to go.
 
Just curious, why the reinforcing block and can you elaborate a wee bit on this?

Thanks for all the great input. I've always used transom mounts on my smaller boats eg;14ft, 24ft.

This I want to do right.

Thanks

Bob
 
If the 'ducer you're using is a flush-type, then I don't think it's nearly as important. With a transducer that sticks below (more than the nominal amount that a flush-type does), then it's best practice to do so, and often specifically recommended. Even so, I still like to use a reinforcing block no matter what. It's a small step but it reinforces the hole and creates less of a "lever" sticking out into the bilge. Basically, it's a 6"-8" square of plywood that is (should be) first enveloped in resin and then installed onto the bilge floor with glass and the transducer is installed through both. The hole in the block for the transducer (about 1/2" larger) can be drilled first, then glue/glass it down. Fill the cavity (hole) with thickened epoxy after wetting the cut edge sufficiently and letting it soak in. Then drill all the way through the block (actually just drilling through epoxy at this point) and hull. Chamfer the cut edge of the hull and coat with epoxy. You have now 100% sealed the cut edge of both the hull and wood and can install the transducer. If at any time in the future, the sealant you use should fail, you've pretty much eliminated any chance of water penetrating into the layer of fiberglass/gelcoat that makes up the hull. You might get water leaking into the bilge, but it won't penetrate the actual fiberglass.
 
Last edited:
Hello there Lazy Daze

Now I totally see what you mean. This gives it the strength and reinforcment it should have. Bonding it into place as if it were part of the actual hull.

Can't thank you enough for this clear explanation. I'm feeling a little more at ease as I do know how to lay glass.

Sure better going into the install.

Sincerely,

Bob
 
If you are installing an elite 7 HDI there are a few things you should know about transducer choice and placement. The standard lowrance transducer which comes with the unit is 83/200/455/800 kHz. If you choose to mount the stock xducer glued to a solid fiberglass area you will only get acceptable performance from the broadband sonar in the 83/200 frequency the 455/800 downscan frequencies won't work. If you use a transom mount it will work as advertised so long as you place the xducer in a spot with clean water flow.

Now as far as a through hull option you could use any 50/200 transducer with the blue lowrance connector such as b60. The drawback is there isn't a through hull which also has 455/800 for the downscan. If you want downscan in a through hull installation you have to get an HDS with the LSS 2 and that is going to cost a minimum of $2000 with a through hull xducer and HDS 7 touch.

Your best option for the elite 7 HDI is going to be a transom mount.

Here's a PDF download for reference.
http://www.lowrance.com/Root/Lowrance-Documents/US/Elite-7-FAQ.pdf
 
I have an Airmar M260 "In hull" transducer. That works ok - not super perfect (keeps bottom up to 22-25 knots) - but well enough for my use. You can pick them up for peanuts on eBay due to a lot of people is changing to Chrip transducers. It is a bigish box - but the transducer is a high performance transducer and is a lot more sensitive than a B60 or similar. The M260 has a retail price of around $1000 - but can be picked up on eBay for $200-$600.

Normally on a 30' + boat if you do not do "in hull" the best solution is a transducer with fairing - since the "boundary layer" on a big boat can disturb the transducer a lot. So you need the faring to extend the transducer below the 1" boundary layer.
 
I'm going to wait for the Elite 7 with "CHIRP" technology as Lowrance is releasing this shortly here in Toronto, Canada.

I'm not going to go through the thru hull on this one. I believe you really need to mount this transducer on the transom for this install with the "Chirp"

I've got another transducer unit (Speed&Temp) at the cannon balls on the downriggers. This transducer cannot go through hull either.

I'm going to use some sort of marine grade adhesive to adhere a piece of marine grade plastic on the transom. Let it bond, then fasten the transducers to the piece of plastic. This way no holes in the transom.

Just have to find a nice quite spot on the transom of this Sea Ray to place it.

Cant thank you all for the great information on this.

Bob :smt038
 
Bob, if by "marine grade plastic", you're referring to something like Starboard (plastic cutting board-type material), adhesive does not easily bond with it (at least not without first properly flame-treating it - even then, it's sort of "iffy"). Don't worry about the holes - done properly they are just fine.
 
Very good point Dennis! I guess that so called marine grade plastic is like a teflon. Not a good material to bond too.

Even that could come loose with the resistance and speed. No better way then going direct with a good adhesive.

Thanks again for this valuable info. Every transducer that I've fastened has been direct with no problems for over 20 yrs with my other boats I used for fishing.

Thanks again

Sincerely,

Bob
 
Bobsuruncle said:
Very good point Dennis! I guess that so called marine grade plastic is like a teflon. Not a good material to bond too.

Even that could come loose with the resistance and speed. No better way then going direct with a good adhesive.

Thanks again for this valuable info. Every transducer that I've fastened has been direct with no problems for over 20 yrs with my other boats I used for fishing.

Thanks again

Sincerely,

Bob
Click to expand...
Bob,

Make sure you share how you attach your ducer, I'm still exploring ideas myself. At this point I'm waiting until I pull the boat and do a permanent transom install. I'm looking into a temporary bracket that can hold the ducer in place until it's permanently in place.
 
No problem!! Once I find this unit here in Canada I will post some pics. This Lowrance Elite 7 (Chirp) has been hard to find and I have until May 1st as the boat is in the water then. Times a ticking. lol

Thanks
Bob

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