Trim Button SHUTTS OFF the Engine While Underway (Heads up)

Alex F

Well-Known Member
Nov 14, 2006
9,166
Miami / Ft Lauderdale
Boat Info
2005 420DB with AB 11 DLX Tender, Raymarine Electronics (2x12" MFDs) with Vesper AIS
Engines
Cummins 450Cs, 9KW Onan Generator, 40HP Yamaha for tender.
Trim Button SHUTTS OFF the Engine While Underway (Heads up - something to be aware of)

On my last getaway trip with friends we’re riding for a short period of time in a no wake zone. As I gave it a throttle to pickup speed all was fine. As the boat started to come up on plane I began trimming the drive up and all of sudden the whole boat goes dead! I let go the trim button right away and the engine is running. I made another attempt and held the trim button a second longer and the engine is dead. Can you imagine the puzzle? The trim switch just totally shuts of the engine :smt101
The main key was not to panic but use my common sense, which was… the boat was running just fine with no issues, the issue only occurs when I trim the drive this means that the drive puts a lot of pressure on the system that sucks all of the power (that would be the electrical power). That would mean that I could be running just on the alternator power. I quickly jumped in to check my battery switch and sure enough it’s on the OFF position. The next key question is “how is it possibleâ€. The simple answer is, when I began my way all was in right place (I always keep the switch on “BOTH†this way I make sure I charge both batteries). While going in the slow zone someone (must be one of the guests on board) had stored the cooler in the storage. It’s a little too tight, so when the person just pushed the cooler in it touched the battery switch and made it turn to off position. I had no idea that the engine began running on alternator only until I needed to trim the drive.

What a surprise and a lesson. Good think my brain was ticking in the right direction and it took me only a minute or so. But, I think it would be helpful to share it to savesomeone else’s pain.

Alex.
 
From the title of your post, I was going to tell you to check your battery connections.
 
Well, I have bad news for you. You may have damaged your alternator. Better then 50/50 odds. Sorry. :smt009

On your next trip be sure you start out with one battery at 100% charge. Use the other. If your engine dies and the second battery is dead you can go back to battery 1 to return to the dock. The issue will be the alternator is shot so the electricity for the spark plugs is coming from the battery. Once drained the engine dies.
 
Also, thank you. If ever in the same situation I know what to check.

A few weeks back I had a mystery also.

Starboard engine started as normal.

Hit the button to start the port engine – nothing.

We had been camping 2 days so I made the assumption that the house battery bank was dead. I hit the button that jumps the batteries together, hit the button to start the port engine and bingo, she fired right up.

In the 280 Suncancer with twins you have one battery for just the starboard engine. Two more for the port + house on a shared 1, 2, both, none type circuit. If you use the two batterys to a point where you can not start the engine you start the other then hit a button that will seize all batteries together and start the other engine.

However, like in the Ronco ad “But wait….there’s more….†As soon as I took my finger off the button that jumps the batteries together the port engine dies. OK, I’m thinking the batteries are really dead and sucking every bit of juice from the alternator so Ill repeat and hold the jump button for a minute or so, giving the alternator a chance to get some current flow into the second battery bank.

Again, the port engine fires right up but as soon as I release my finger from the battery jump button the port engine dies.

Finally I open the compartment with the engine keys and someone, will assume one of the kids, took the key out for just the port engine. It was sitting in the bottom of the compartment.

I inserted the port engine key, gave it a turn, went back to the helm and the port engine started up and kept running.
 
Presentation said:
Well, I have bad news for you. You may have damaged your alternator. Better then 50/50 odds. Sorry. :smt009

On your next trip be sure you start out with one battery at 100% charge. Use the other. If your engine dies and the second battery is dead you can go back to battery 1 to return to the dock. The issue will be the alternator is shot so the electricity for the spark plugs is coming from the battery. Once drained the engine dies.

You have a good point. But I think it was to short of a time frame to do any damage to the alternator. The no wake zone was short (about 5 min ride). I've this with cars and alternatator never gave up. But, I'll keep an eye on it.

Thx,
Alex.
 
Alex F said:
Presentation said:
Well, I have bad news for you. You may have damaged your alternator. Better then 50/50 odds. Sorry. :smt009

On your next trip be sure you start out with one battery at 100% charge. Use the other. If your engine dies and the second battery is dead you can go back to battery 1 to return to the dock. The issue will be the alternator is shot so the electricity for the spark plugs is coming from the battery. Once drained the engine dies.

You have a good point. But I think it was to short of a time frame to do any damage to the alternator. The no wake zone was short (about 5 min ride). I've this with cars and alternator never gave up. But, I'll keep an eye on it.

Thx,
Alex.

Alex, just momentarily moving the battery switch from one position to another with the engine running can, and usually does, short out an alternator. Not sure if it takes out the diodes, or the regulator, or exactly what it does, but it's probably repairable.
Measure your battery with no charger on it. It should read around 12 volts.
Then, start your engine, and measure the battery again, with the engine running a little faster than idle, say, 1000 rpm.
If the alternator is OK, she'll read around 14 volts.
If not...... :smt009
 
Sea Ray 300 said:
Alex, just momentarily moving the battery switch from one position to another with the engine running can, and usually does, short out an alternator.

Steve,
On a regular basis, after anchoring for a while, I would start from bat#1, which was used while at anchor to run all equipment. I do this to gage how the battery is holding charge. Then, when the engine starts and running I would switch to from #1 to BOTH. I have the boat for 3 years and (knock on wood) this was never an issue. I also guess that having this incident when a guest turned my switch to OFF putting all the load on the alternator shows that it's in good working condition (I hope it stays that way).

Thx,
Alex.
 
Sea Ray 300 said:
......Measure your battery with no charger on it. It should read around 12 volts.
Then, start your engine, and measure the battery again, with the engine running a little faster than idle, say, 1000 rpm.
If the alternator is OK, she'll read around 14 volts.
If not...... :smt009

I should have thought of that. You can do this at the dock and use the voltage gauge at the helm.


Please let us know what you find.
 
Alex F said:
Sea Ray 300 said:
Alex, just momentarily moving the battery switch from one position to another with the engine running can, and usually does, short out an alternator.

Steve,
On a regular basis, after anchoring for a while, I would start from bat#1, which was used while at anchor to run all equipment. I do this to gage how the battery is holding charge. Then, when the engine starts and running I would switch to from #1 to BOTH. I have the boat for 3 years and (knock on wood) this was never an issue. I also guess that having this incident when a guest turned my switch to OFF putting all the load on the alternator shows that it's in good working condition (I hope it stays that way).

These switches are typically make-before-break which means you can switch between A-BOTH-B all you want with no consequences.

Switching to OFF with the engine running however, as noted, is a bad thing. Your alternator may appear to be working fine (ie putting out voltage), but the voltage regulator may not be working right which could lead to other problems. I'd get it checked out if it were me.
 
Alex F said:
Sea Ray 300 said:
Alex, just momentarily moving the battery switch from one position to another with the engine running can, and usually does, short out an alternator.

Steve,
On a regular basis, after anchoring for a while, I would start from bat#1, which was used while at anchor to run all equipment. I do this to gage how the battery is holding charge. Then, when the engine starts and running I would switch to from #1 to BOTH. I have the boat for 3 years and (knock on wood) this was never an issue. I also guess that having this incident when a guest turned my switch to OFF putting all the load on the alternator shows that it's in good working condition (I hope it stays that way).

Thx,
Alex.

Alex,

I did that for a few years on my 250. One night, with guests, when returning from dinner, there was a loud "Pop" following by total silence and a burning smell. As it turns out, the main fuse burned. This happened while cruising at idle, everyone seated, battery switch in "Both" behind a closed door.

The verdict from the dealer was that switching between batteries with the engine running "Chipped Away" at the main fuse until one day it just blew. Not my explanation, that's from the dealer.
 
Hampton,

Thanks for a great warning and tip. From your story sounds like SeeTow was unavoidable?
I guess, the proper way of doing this is to keep the switch on #1 (keep #2 as a reserve) while at anchor, then when ready to go switch to BOTH, start the engine and don't touch the switch while the engine is running. Does it sound right?
Although, not all the delers are always right, but in this case I would like to avoid what you had experienced.

BTW, there was a question wheather my alternator was damaged. The suggested test was to turn the keys and see the voltage (should be 12 or just under), then start the engine and see if the voltage goes up to 14v. My test showed that battery hud under 12v, but when I started the engine it did go up to 14v. Thus, my conclusion is that all is good, thank god...

Thx,
Alex.
 

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