Trailer set up for 260DA

Update: Adjusted rear bunks in 3/4" each and bunks sit perfect to the inside of the strakes totally centered. I am used to the front guide bunks centering the boat before it starts to rest on the rear bunks. This is not my case with this boat/trailer set up maybe due to a shallow ramp? I did not back the trailer as far back yesterday. Powered it on about 3/4 of the way and then winched it the rest. It did center perfect doing it this way. Dennis brought up a point that I am very intrigued by-moving the bunks outward to position them to the outside of the strakes. I think I have enough distance between the chines and the trailer fenders to do this, but have some measurements to make before I actually attempt this. What would be a minimum acceptable distance between the trailer fenders and the chines? All plan to make my guides rotate. Currently they have a rivet in the bottom of each one. I think I can simply get rid of the rivet, remove the PVC pipe and see what I have to work with. Thanks to all.
 
It looks like you're only sitting on an 8' wide trailer, instead of 8-1/2'. That's OK, but it usually means you need to keep a little more distance between the fender and the chine. A few inches should be fine, though. The boat would have to be severely listing to even have the possibility of contacting the fender (and it may even completely miss it as the boat lists). But, given the guide-ons, this is even less of a possibility. Even if it did contact the fenders, the damage would actually be quite minimal, maybe just a little mark. If you were worried, though, a 1"x6" covered in carpet (or black starboard) and through bolted to the top of the fender would solve the problem.
 
Where do you measure for trailer width-outside to outside on the tires? I have quite a bit of measuring to do to see if it will work, but after looking at things, I can't help but go back to your statement about "locking it in" that you made earlier. It seems to me that it would make loading quite a bit easier. After you got lined up, the strakes would guide it right on almost eliminating the need for the front guide bunks. I am land locked this coming weekend, but may give this a shot Labor Day weekend. Thanks for all of your help. It is much better now, but I can see it being "perfect" if I can fit the bunks on the outside of the strakes giving about 1-2" of clearance to the inside.
 
Good question - I've never actually measured to see if the width is the tires or fender. But, I was only guessing based on that area of the chine is usually quite a bit less than 8'6" and comparing where it is in relation to the fender. But, it could just be the angle of the picture, too.

Yes, that's the exact reason I like the "locking it in" idea. But, where you've got it is not "bad" - it might turn out to be perfectly fine. Especially with the guide-ons. See how you like it before you change it. You can probably use that time elsewhere!
 
Thanks for the advice. I think I will leave it as is for now as I do have a lot to do. All of my ramps thus far, are concrete way back into the water with rocks all around and docks are never closer than 50-100 feet away so I am not hurting anything by power loading. I want to get where I can put it all of the way to the bow roller and I think I can as I get more comfortable. In my previous boating life with bass boats, you can feel the front guides "grab" the boat and center it. I cannot feel that on this one. Hey-thanks for all of the help and support. If I make a change, I will let you know.
 
Are the front bunks raised up enough to make good contact with the hull?
 
I am pretty sure they are. With the boat on the trailer, I lowered them and then raised them back placing a 4x4 under each on the brackets and putting just a little pressure on them. They are snug to the hull, but not holding any weight. Is this good?

Thanks
 
bbwhitejr said:
I am pretty sure they are. With the boat on the trailer, I lowered them and then raised them back placing a 4x4 under each on the brackets and putting just a little pressure on them. They are snug to the hull, but not holding any weight. Is this good?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Some centering bunks are designed to take some weight. You can pretty much tell by looking at their construction and attaching hardware - such as the use of grade-rated bolts. However, as far as the "centering" part goes - the way you adjusted them is perfect.
 
Thanks Dennis. I think I will leave her alone for now. I do not think mine are weight bearing as they are nothing more than pine 2x6 5' long covered in carpet. Have been on the lookout for some 2x6 oak, but have not found it yet. Thanks again. Bennett
 
bbwhitejr said:
Thanks Dennis. I think I will leave her alone for now. I do not think mine are weight bearing as they are nothing more than pine 2x6 5' long covered in carpet. Have been on the lookout for some 2x6 oak, but have not found it yet. Thanks again. Bennett
Click to expand...

Cypress wood is so much better and will not warp or rot while you own the boat. I built a keel bunk on my trailer and it is a great upgrade over the Y guide it had on it.

This is my thread that resulted in me installing the keel bunk: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/45490-Anchor-hits-bow-roller-and-winch

MM
 
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Now that looks very interesting. With the guide bunks that far back and that long, it has to guide the keel right up where you want it. Cypress is a good wood. My dad used to run a saw mill in NC and I might have some access to a couple of pieces. If I could just extend my front bunks back one more cross member, I might have what I want. Hey, thanks for the ideas.
 
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