Trailer Damage - Repairs After Blow Out

Mine say 65#...it depends on tire spec and load rating. For those that have purchased used trailers, especially if you're having tire problems, I wouldn't count on the correct tires being installed. Inflate according to sidewall max pressure but also verify that load rating of tires is sufficient for the weight your putting on them. IMHO the two biggest contributors to tire failure is loading(weight) and under inflation.
 
It would be good to compare that trailer spec tag to the tires you actually have on your trailers. In any case you guys should verify the ‘Max inflation tire pressure’ on the sidewall of your tires and go by that.

10-4 on the verification. My ties say 50 just need to look for a label tonight.

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'Tis the season ....found this on another forum
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Dave - one thing to keep in mind is that you MUST find the broken wire and secure it properly so the bare wire end doesn't contact the frame and cause problems.
 
I just checked my placard. My tire sizes are as specified on the placard that states 35PSI cold. My tire sidewall says maximum load capacity is 1760lbs at 50PSI. Doesn't this mean I should only inflate to 50PSI if my load was at 7040lbs? (1760LBS x4 tires).

J
 
All recommendations are to run your trailer tires at max pressure and that total load be 10-20% less that total tire carrying capacity. Running at a lower pressure just stresses the tire and creates heat. In your case I'm guessing your total weight would be 4,500-5,000#, that's boat, trailer, fuel, and stuff(it's easy to under estimate the weight of stuff ;) Those estimated weights would put you in the ballpark for your tires carrying capacity at 50#. Are you the original owner of your trailer? It appears it had different tires on it, thus the label.
 
Dave - one thing to keep in mind is that you MUST find the broken wire and secure it properly so the bare wire end doesn't contact the frame and cause problems.

Thanks Dennis. The wire is just three inches short of where the light used to be and is neatly in a hanger. I'll tape up the exposed wire until the repairs are complete.
 
Sorry about your bad day with the blowout.

"I got replacement fenders from a local RV dealer. They had 3 choices, a $40 fender which was flimsy but matched, a $75 fender which was almost as thick as OEM, and the OEM from shorelandr which was $125"

Thanks for the comments and ideas.
 
After all the comments and much reading on other sites, I've come to the conclusion that I'll treat trailer tires like I did my battery. Just traded in a perfectly good but three year old battery. $125.00 was cheap compared to some of the alternatives.

So, I'll probably limit tires to 4 seasons on the road. I came across a forum discussing Towmax tires, and the common theme in 2012 was that "my 2007 / 2008 camper, trailer, whatever had a blow out or multiple blowouts." I'll also put the trailer up on blocks in the winter - hell, it's on blocks now.

When I think about the odd stresses on trailer tires - especially backing a tandem trailer into a tight situation with hard turns, or sitting for months in cold conditions, I suppose we do some rough things to them.

Trailer manufacturers seem to run pretty tight on a tire's capacity. One manufacturer rated my ST175 80 R13 at about 1,350 lbs. Their ST185 80 R 13 was about 1,450. I know the tires are a pretty close fit in the fenders now. I will look into this upgrade.

Options for 5 locally (mostly) stocked tires:

Jensen Tire (Local Tire Chain):
Marathon $506.90
Towmax $399.90

Costco
Greenball Towmaster (3-5 days to order) $438.30

Discount Tire
Carlisle $537.34
Marathon $569.00
Maaxis (Special Order and higher and "entry level tire" per the manager - hmmm....)


You can find plenty of ill will for all of these tires on the Internet. I'm a Goodyear guy, but Marathons seem to get a lot of ire. So, I've been leaning toward the Towmax and the Greenball Towmaster (but not crazy about the wait).

Any thoughts?
 
I don't know if you can find it in a 13" size, but if you can, you could "upgrade" to the next "load range". I think what you have currently is load range "C". Load range "D" would give a higher capacity and run cooler down the road, too.
 

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