Tips about diesel fuel and fuel Filter System

PMvdb395DA

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
1,165
Netherlands Europe
Boat Info
360DA '03 6,5 kw kohler generator, AC, etc.
Engines
Yanmar 315Hp diesels
I found this on boatdiesel and I think it's usefull info!!

1) It's always best to either draw your fuel from the bottom of the tank (you want the crap in your filters and not sitting in the bottom waiting to get stirred up in the first bad weather), OR have a drainable fuel tank sump, OR BOTH.

2) Be sure the fuel lines, valves and fittings that feed your filters do not restrict the flow or allow air to enter the system. Choosing the next size of filter in capacity ratings will assure you of a longer time between clogging.

3) A vacuum gage installed just before a fuel lift pump will more that pay for itself if installed correctly and its operation is understood by the operator. The use of a vacuum gage adds "science" as to when to change your filters.

4) An in-line sight glass or clear piece of vinyl hose (temporary) installed in the fuel line is one of the best tools for addressing fuel / air leaks in a fuel system when troubleshooting .

5) Always be sure the filters you choose to use are sized in stages with the largest capacity and nominal mic rating closer to the fuel tank. "Multi-Stage", remember??

6) Be sure your "return fuel system" cannot be shut off when switching tanks or at any time during engine operation.

7) If the engine fuel system design allows the use of a submerged return line, consider this as a worthwhile addition to the fuel system. But, also read your engine installation requirements as not all systems recommend this, although MOST DO.

8) Fuel transfer: With multiple tanks and the need to transfer fuel with an electric pump, putting an old fashion type spring wound timer w/ normally open electrical contacts ( available thru many home improvement stores and industrial supplies) will save you from the many embarrassments that typically occur by pumping fuel into the bilge or overboard due to overfilling. I rarely recommend using return fuel for fuel transfer because of typical flow rates above 60 GPH in many cases, it is easy to "forget" about the valve you messed with a hour ago. We prefer using a 12 VDC electric pump with flows around 30-50 GPH with a fuel filter on the suction side of the pump (FF5013), w/ 60 minute timer. Not only will you not forget, you will be "polishing" your fuel in the best way - with the boat "rocking and rolling". Need 50 gallons moved from port to starboard?? Just the right twist and your done !!

9) If you really want to know what type of ugly stuff is in your fuel tank and how good your filters are really working, cut open your "on-engine" spin-on and take a look. This is the one method that will let an operator really find out what is getting thru to his last chance filter on the engine. Cutting open filter in your Primary system, will tell you what's really in the fuel tank.

10) If you have "Racor Phobia", but tired of the mess having to take apart your Racor Bowl to clean it out, put a bulk separator spin-on in front of it. You'll be amazed a year down the road at the difference.

11) Be sure none of your fuel tank vent lines contain a "low spot" - you want them to drain completely when the boat is static or in motion. If they can run forward and rise at the same time, this is always a better choice for routing. With large wing tanks, it is usually best to vent on the inside top and fwd edge of each tank. This allows the tanks to vent better if the boat starts to heel during filling.

12) A properly installed sight gage on your fuel tanks is the best assurance of knowing how much fuel you really have.

13) When building / designing a fuel system w/ many pipe thread type fittings, manifolds, etc. consider the use of a 100% solids epoxy for the "pipe dope". Many installations cannot tolerate even the slightest "sweat" of diesel on a fitting. We started this practice about 15 years ago, and we never get a "call back"... Grey "Marine Tex" and some Simpson (ET-22) products do a great job and will never let you down, besides being easy to use and clean up.

In closing, multi-step "Multi-Stage" filtration is the most effective and simple way to protect modern diesels from the contaminants found in fuel systems. To quote "Alaska Diesel," (you know, those Lugger and Northern Light guys,) "Forcing fuel to go through even three separate, progressively finer filters is cheap insurance."....

Peter
 
Peter,
Having a drainable fuel tank sump is against the ABYC standards. if this drain were to work open it could allow a large amount of fuel into the bilge and present a hazmat/enviromental incident when the bilge pump turned on.
 
Ok, but I think that is not very clever.
Because people now use all kinds of additives and biocides to clean or to prevent their fuel for water and all other dirt.
But I think this is also not very good for our environment....

I think that you also can have an accident when a hose is getting of or something else happen with the tank.

But when you drain your fuel tank and you get the dirty diesel to a collect point or something like that I think this is also a good method.

Peter
 
In the US, safety trumps the enviornment.

Besides, it is fairly easy to disconnect the fuel pick up lines, attach a pump and pump the tank almost dry, or pump the fuel through a fuel filtration system. The key word here is "PREVENT". Almost all fuel contamination is preventable if you apply good judjment, sound fuel management techniques, and judicious use of fuel additives.

I currently run Caterpillar, Cummins, Kubota, Perkins, Yanmar, GM, Volkswagen and Navistar diesels in a variety of applications and I have storage tanks for off road fuel. I haven't had a fuel quality problem or plugged filters in the last 20 years......its just not that big of a problem to manage your fuel.
 
PMvdb395DA said:
Always be sure the filters you choose to use are sized in stages with the largest capacity and nominal mic rating closer to the fuel tank.
Peter

I think that this is the most clear tip, and I think that a good 2 step filtration is perfect for how the most of us use our boat.

A racor system and a good brand engine fuel filter can do the job.
But with the correct size stages

Peter
 

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