Thinking about recaulking the rubrail - tips?

Stee6043

Well-Known Member
Jun 1, 2015
6,754
West Michigan
Boat Info
1997 Sundancer 400
Engines
7.4L Gassers
I've got just about enough of the caulk pulling away that it's probably time to spend a few hours removing the old caulk and laying down a new bead this winter.

Any tips from you guys that have done this? Seems pretty straight forward or am I oversimplifying?

I was planning to use 3M 4000UV. I'd really prefer to use a caulk gun vs a tube but I can't seem to find this stuff other than in a full case ($300)...
 
I've got just about enough of the caulk pulling away that it's probably time to spend a few hours removing the old caulk and laying down a new bead this winter.

Any tips from you guys that have done this? Seems pretty straight forward or am I oversimplifying?

I was planning to use 3M 4000UV. I'd really prefer to use a caulk gun vs a tube but I can't seem to find this stuff other than in a full case ($300)...

Hi Steve,

Try asking Pete in our service department. I'm 99% certain they use boatlife products, and it works great. I know it's available in as either a tube, or canister that you can use in a caulk gun.

-Tom
 
We did our boat about 10 years ago. We removed the chrome flat plate and the black rub rail.
Then we gouged out all the calking between the upper and lower half of the boat. After that we put in sikaflex marine caulking. Do not remember the type. It was about $20 a tube. Think we used a case. We also got all new screws. It was done by a fiberglass shop on a weekend. My wife and I were the labour crew. The owner of the shop provided the expertise to do the work. We spent a total of 16 hours each doing the boat. It stopped all leaks
 
West Marine has 3M 4000 UV, you can also buy it from Defender or Jamestown, about 10 years ago I did mine with GE 100% silicone, I used a light grey color as it matched the grey rub rail I have, last winter was the first time I touched up two locations about 3-4 inches long, I did the top and bottom of the rub rail the hardest part was cleaning out the old caulk and installing tape to both sides of the caulk joint, use a rubber glove and keep it wet as you strike the joint it makes a nice smooth finish. Also try not to use too much caulk.....makes a big mess.
 
We put the caulk in the cavity between the upper and lower part of the boat. It is like a shoe box lid. As Ricochet said gloves and do not put too much. The hardest part was getting the old stuff out. We did it all by hand. There may be an electric tool you could use but I would worry about damaging the fiberglass.
 
Great feedback. Thank you! Perhaps I underestimated the amount of time required here. I am certainly not planning to remove the rub rail. I was imagining an hour or so of caulk removal and another hour or two to recaulk. Sounds optimistic now, at best.

I'll need to take a closer look next time I'm at the boat. If this is an entire weekend project I fear it's not feasible for me while in winter storage. My marina is closed on the weekends....
 
I did my 340 about 10 years ago. Used blue tape to lay out a 1/32' joint (one piece on the upper rub rail and one on the hull) - pretty easy to eyeball, but that took 4 hours alone. Laid a small bead with a caulk gun (I found 4000UV in a caulk tube) and used the wet finger technique suggested earlier. Remove the tape immediately - before the caulk sets.
 
Great feedback. Thank you! Perhaps I underestimated the amount of time required here. I am certainly not planning to remove the rub rail. I was imagining an hour or so of caulk removal and another hour or two to recaulk. Sounds optimistic now, at best.

I'll need to take a closer look next time I'm at the boat. If this is an entire weekend project I fear it's not feasible for me while in winter storage. My marina is closed on the weekends....
Stee6043
From your boat photo it looks like it might be on White Lake? Do you store at one of the marinas there also?
 
Stee6043
From your boat photo it looks like it might be on White Lake? Do you store at one of the marinas there also?

Nope, that photo is Muskegon Lake looking southwest-ish. I was anchored just off the state park when I took that shot.

My home port is Grand Haven.
 
I did my 340 about 10 years ago. Used blue tape to lay out a 1/32' joint (one piece on the upper rub rail and one on the hull) - pretty easy to eyeball, but that took 4 hours alone. Laid a small bead with a caulk gun (I found 4000UV in a caulk tube) and used the wet finger technique suggested earlier. Remove the tape immediately - before the caulk sets.

Very helpful description. Thank you.
 

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