They Don't Like the Cold

CoralReefer

New Member
Mar 26, 2008
685
Nashville, TN
Boat Info
1987 250 Sundancer
Engines
260 Mercruiser w/Alpha I
Took the boat out for the first time and it took about an hour to warm up to operating temp. Water temp was about 45 degrees. Ran great once we got out of the marina. Docking was fun. Engine stalled and flooded the plugs so dead in the water. Thank goodness another boater was behind us and help pull us in. Interesting first trip out.
 
You just answered a question I was going to post.

I was fixing to summerize mine but was wondering what the potential was to hurt anything since we'll still get some low temps for a few more weeks.

Until we got old and had kids we always trailered the boat and thus never dewinterized until real warm weather. Now the boat (SD260) is too big to trailer regularly so we have a slip for the first time (Dale Hollow KY/TN). Keep it up on air.

What do the guys do that leave them in the water all winter? Winterize the engine and let the outdrive sit in the water? Doesn't that hurt anything in there when it freezes or does the water keep it from freezing (assuming the lake doesn't freeze up)?

So are you now effectively unwinterized for the season? Sorry for the many questions but cold water boating is new to me - except for '78 when the Ky river flooded in January and we went waterskiing in our corn field...
 
That seems like an awfully long time to get to operating temp-which I am guessing is in the 170-180 degree range. The Potomac is probably in the upper 40s-lower 50s at the surface now, and it takes my C series Cummins about 20 minutes at RPMs varying from 650 (idle) to 850 to get to 160 Degree operating temp so I can bring her on plane. It sounds like your thermostat may not be closing properly.

regards
Skip
 
I agree with Skip. I would check your thermostat if I were you. The temperature of the water has little to do with how fast your engine warms up. The T-Stat should be closed and remain closed until the engine itself starts to warm up the cooling water circulating in the block. Then it will slowly open and mix in the cold sea water. I notice very little difference in my warm up time in the middle of the winter when I run mine in 40 degree water.

I don't winterize my engine at all during the winter. I have a bilge heater which keeps the block from freezing. The outdrive itself is fine in the water because the water remains above freezing. And I generally run mine every single week of the year too weather permitting.
 
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It may not have a thermostat at all. This was the case with our boat. I'm guessing people remove them after a problem, or to get them to run cooler at WOT (more flow).

Thermostats seem to stick shut, creating an overheating situation, more often than open. At least it's the stuck shut ones that you always hear about.

As has been said, water temp shouldn't have much to do with anything, as a properly operating thermostat will only open once the water in the block reaches the temp to open it (140, 160, whatever number 'stat you have).
 
I put new plugs and fuel filter in today thinking that would help. The engine ran smoother and it warmed up ok. My problem still remains that it won't slow idle. Throttle response is good and motor is smooth. When I pull the throttle back to idol, it sounds like the engine loads up and quits. I'm thinking the choke may be sticking. I'm going back down tomorrow to pull the air cleaner and spray some carb cleaning and let it sit. I don't know much about carbs but I know there's also a lot of mechanical parts and they require reqular maintenance. My friend who I just bought this boat from is being really cool and helping me through these issues so I can get it out on the water. Luckily, his brother in law is a marine mechanic. LOL
 
The brother in law mechanic should be able to figure it out pretty quick.

My guess would be to clean the plugs and make sure the choke isn't sticking like you're doing for starters. Also check and make sure that no vacuum hoses are off or cracked, that can make for a rough idle that smooths out with rpms. If the simple things don't fix it you may be looking at rebuilding the carb, all those little orifices (like the low idle) can get blocked by junk or plugged by old gas.

Was a fuel stabilizer used and the carb fogged before winter?
 
I know that fuel stabilizer was used but the boat was stored with only 1/4 tank which leads me to believe that consensation may be a factor. From everything I read, I really think that it's a carb issue (hopefully not a fuel pickup in the tank...knock on wood). I'm having a mechanic look at it this week. I'll let everyone know the diagnosis and fix.
 
Have you changed tthe fuel filters? Also, spraying carb cleaner down the throat of the carb will do nothing except clean the air passage, you need to clean the fuel passages....is there blackish smoke fromt he exhaust or a very rich smell at idle?, you could have a stuck float or a sticky power valve {if carb is a rochester}......... good luck
 
No black smoke but it did have a rich smell. We're looking at it any day now when (working around rain). We did change the fuel filter but no inline filters on the carb (if there is one).
 
Depending on which carb you have, there could be a samll filter where the gas line attaches to the carb. You'll need flare nut wrenches to remove the fitting. The filter will be in there (it's a small filter).

Good luck!
 
I looked today and didn't see one. My guy told me to wet down the carb with carb and choke cleaner and let it sit. We're meeting there in the afternoon Friday to try some adjustments. Heck, I'm ready to buy a new carb just to get on the water soon. I guess patience is a virtue in boating. LOL
 
Ok...my guy came and looked at the carb and as it turns out someone had rigged the carb and bypassed the choke so it wasn't operating at all. Missing linkage etc.

I'm just going to buy a new carb and be done with it. Does anyone know the replacement for a Merc 260? I think what's on it was an aftermarket Rochester from Sierra.
 
OEM Rockchester Quadrajet. Either a 4MV or 4MC depending on the choke.
 

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