The saga begins - bringing my $100 Seville CC back to life

[OldEngineer]

Hoo boy! Six hours working on Ohana's engine today.

Install charged battery
Check outdrive tilt, good movement full up, full down.
Check engine oil: full, nice clear amber color
Check power steering pump:



Yikes, empty! Now filled, spins freely, belt good, correct tension.
Check alternator:




bummer! Bearings shot, fan blades are rubbing. Removed. Will replace.

Prepare for compression check
Remove plug wires, remove plugs.



Another bummer, rust on all four.




plug seats all rusted, engine must have sat uncovered for a long time,some years ago.
Remove coil wire: sheesh, coil is loose in its bracket, probably the wrong kind, will replace.
Remove flame arrestor,




carb groaty but simple one-barrel Rochester (I think), can rebuild fairly easily.

Open throttle all the way.
Install compression gauge in number 1 cylinder
Turn ignition key, big engage clunk from the starter solenoid and starter, ENGINE FROZEN! (many expletives ...)

Sooo, sprayed some WD-40 in each cylinder, will let it sit over night, and try again tomorrow.

Greatly esteemed Club members, any ideas on how to bust Ohana's engine loose? I can't get a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer, the front engine mount is in the way.
If I can't loosen it tomorrow, I will regroup and plan to pull the engine and rebuild if necessary. A replacement engine is just not in the budget right now.

Regards to all,

 

[Big Island Lifer]

I've heard of success with marvel mystery oil instead of wd40. Good luck. I'm hopefully you can get this motor loosened up.


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[JVM225]

I second the Marvel. Pour some down each cylinder and let it sit overnight so the rings get a good soak. Jiggle the breaker bar back and forth trying to free it by hand.
Don't get to forceful with it though. You don't want to break a ring while trying to free them.
If you free it, drain and change the oil.
If not, then it may be time to pull it.

 

[dvx216]

That motor has galley covers on the side of the motor block that will get you into the connecting rods to let you get penetrating oil under the rings.

 

[Sublimetime]

maybe there is an inspection hole/cover on the "bell" housing that you can remove and then pry against flywheel,,with great caution.

 

[OldEngineer]

@ dvx216, good catch! I will remove that cover and see what's what inside that engine.
@ Sublimetime, I didn't see one, but I will try to look closer for an inspection hole.
@ Big Island Lifer and JVM225, your posts reminded me that I have an equivalent product, Kroil (creeping oil) that I use in my amateur gunsmithing. I sprayed some of that in the cylinders as well, but still no joy.
All y'all, if what I see in the engine gallery is too scary, I will have to regroup and start saving for a replacement engine. Here's hoping all I have to do is pull the engine and do a partial rebuild myself.
So far, my glass is still half-full.

Regards to all,

 

[blaster]

If you have to get a new motor (hopefully not), not all 3.0 motors are the same. I read through this thread a while back and it discusses some of the differences.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...at-to-check-when-buying-a-used-mercruiser-3-0

 

[OldEngineer]

All y'all,

we're back! Heat abated enough for me to work outside, and hands and arms healed enough to put them to use (long story short, my 800 lb motorcycle pounced on my arms and hands last month). Also, First and Second Mates (Daisy and Kane) are back from Summer vacations. Put them to work immediately on the trailer, all rollers now replaced. Next step is cleaning the hull bottom of all old bottom paint, then a good wet sand, compound and polish on the entire hull. We'll drop her down on the trailer, and pull the engine and outdrive next. Stay tuned, pics will follow once I find out what the new size limit is.

regards to all,