The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

the pre 05 260 looks "bigger" than the newer models regarding the hull . does it have more cabin height than the newer models ?

is the midcabin bigger than in a newer 260 ?
 
the pre 05 260 looks "bigger" than the newer models regarding the hull . does it have more cabin height than the newer models ?

is the midcabin bigger than in a newer 260 ?
From '99 to '09, the 260DA's are all roughly the same - although the boat was completely redesigned in '05. From '10 on, the 260DA is about the same size as your 240DA.
 
thanks lazy daze ! does a 260 has more midcabin space or overall cabin height than my 240 ?
 
Boy, you're really testing my memory! The midcabin is about the same as far as the actual size of the berth - but it's easier to get in and out of in the 260DA's. Cabin height is a little taller, too - but what's more noticeable is that the cabin height is retained for a longer stretch. In your 240DA, there's really only one little spot where you can stand straight up - the "stand straight up" area is larger in the 260DA.
 
A/C... it's pretty straight forward - you need water for cooling and electricity for power. Seacock open, power to the MDP (panel in cabin), breakers on, select temp. BUT... it's probably best to allow the owner/operator to show you and let them do it - just in case there's an issue, your hands weren't on it.

Thank you for the help. I do not have access to the owner it is being brokered through a dealership. One more question: where is the seacock for the A/C - is it in the engine bay or elsewhere?
 
Thank you for the help. I do not have access to the owner it is being brokered through a dealership. One more question: where is the seacock for the A/C - is it in the engine bay or elsewhere?

If it's factory installed it will be in the engine compartment.

I don't know if this has been suggested but you may want to enlist the help of a surveyor. This person will go over all systems (usually not the engine) and be there for the seatrial. It sounds like you have a lot of questions and the survey will give you a good insight into the boat and may notice problems you weren't even looking for.

There are alot of things that may not he right or need maintenance that you may not be aware of and that can get expensive real quick.

First question that comes to mind is how old are the exhaust manifolds and risers and what condition are they in. If they are due for service then you could be looking at several thousand dollars for parts and labor.

-Kevin
 
Thanks Kevin. I had an engine/mechanical survey done to address those questions but am choosing to self-survey the rest. I know that's a bit of gamble but (besides the windlass, vacuflush, and A/C which I do not have experience with) am pretty comfortable with everything else. As prior owner of two other Sundancers since 2005 I have either worked on, fixed, or upgraded just about every single inch of those boats and this one is very similar in those aspects to the others. If this was a bigger boat yeah I'd get a survey, but for this size I'm willing to gamble with knowing what I do know.

Yesterday I pre-surveyed everything that can be checked with her on the hard out of the water from bow to stern and she does have a few items that need addressing but nothing I can't handle. Sea trial is still scheduled for tomorrow.
 
Thanks Kevin. I had an engine/mechanical survey done to address those questions but am choosing to self-survey the rest. I know that's a bit of gamble but (besides the windlass, vacuflush, and A/C which I do not have experience with) am pretty comfortable with everything else. As prior owner of two other Sundancers since 2005 I have either worked on, fixed, or upgraded just about every single inch of those boats and this one is very similar in those aspects to the others. If this was a bigger boat yeah I'd get a survey, but for this size I'm willing to gamble with knowing what I do know.

Yesterday I pre-surveyed everything that can be checked with her on the hard out of the water from bow to stern and she does have a few items that need addressing but nothing I can't handle. Sea trial is still scheduled for tomorrow.

Best of luck with the Sea Trial. I should note that if you are planning on insuring the boat you may need a survey anyway - at least to establish value.

As far as the rest of the systems go they are pretty straight forward if you are familiar with them. Make a checklist of all systems before you go down so that you do not forget anything. When you check the A/C make sure you get good water flow. If temps are low turn on the heat - if the heat works the A/C should work. Check the water heater make sure water temps come up and of course make sure the head system holds vacuum. Outside of that just go through everything that turns on/off like the fridge - make sure to freezer section gets real cold.

Report back to us as to how it goes - I loved my 260DA when I had it and had almost every part of the boat apart at one time or another as I installed a windlass, replaced upholstery and the canvas - giving me an opportunity to get into every nook and cranny not normally seen for the required disassembly.

-Kevin
 
I bought it. The reason we were looking at this particular model is that size is close being to the largest Sundancer that will fit in the local dry stack marina's available spots... anything larger and we would not have a place to store her. Wet slip is not an option for me with an i/o outdrive. I was also looking at a '98 270 Sundancer but it sold the day before. The 260 will still serve us nicely for our specific needs.

I am used to freshwater boats and this one has been saltwater so it is rougher than what I preferred but all the major systems work and the minor cosmetic items can be replaced with newer non-corroded ones. Otherwise there's nothing wrong I can't fix - just minor aggravating stuff like the horn does not honk, a loose port side lounger seat with missing screws, gas struts on engine hatch are toast, stuff like that. Vacuflush kept its seal, the A/C is ice cold, the fridge, windlass and remote spotlight work, etc. I stuffed a new canister into the butane stove and sure enough it leaked - but I guess that's a good thing that will force me to replace it with a safer stove. Hopefully an electric/alcohol stove is available that is the same size and will fit in the same spot.

We are looking forward to doing a lot of exploring in the Tampa Bay/St Pete - Sarasota areas this summer. We were boatless last summer and it was tough LOL.
 
I bought it. The reason we were looking at this particular model is that size is close being to the largest Sundancer that will fit in the local dry stack marina's available spots... anything larger and we would not have a place to store her. Wet slip is not an option for me with an i/o outdrive. I was also looking at a '98 270 Sundancer but it sold the day before. The 260 will still serve us nicely for our specific needs.

I am used to freshwater boats and this one has been saltwater so it is rougher than what I preferred but all the major systems work and the minor cosmetic items can be replaced with newer non-corroded ones. Otherwise there's nothing wrong I can't fix - just minor aggravating stuff like the horn does not honk, a loose port side lounger seat with missing screws, gas struts on engine hatch are toast, stuff like that. Vacuflush kept its seal, the A/C is ice cold, the fridge, windlass and remote spotlight work, etc. I stuffed a new canister into the butane stove and sure enough it leaked - but I guess that's a good thing that will force me to replace it with a safer stove. Hopefully an electric/alcohol stove is available that is the same size and will fit in the same spot.

We are looking forward to doing a lot of exploring in the Tampa Bay/St Pete - Sarasota areas this summer. We were boatless last summer and it was tough LOL.

Congrats they are great boats. If you have any questions let us know. The butane stove is not that bad but you're probably better off not cooking in the cabin anyway. Get something you can use top side.

-Kevin
 
replaced the old VHF radio and now working on antenna. Noticed with new antennas, the coax connector is larger than the drilled hole in the side of the boat. Anyone else rerun their antenna wires?
 
replaced the old VHF radio and now working on antenna. Noticed with new antennas, the coax connector is larger than the drilled hole in the side of the boat. Anyone else rerun their antenna wires?
That's because standard practice is to assemble the connector AFTER running the wire. Shakespeare makes this piece - I've done it enough that I think it's their "259" model... but double check me on that. Apparently it can be done just by crimping, but I've only ever soldered it.

Which antenna did you get? The Galaxy 5225 is a pretty good replacement for what would have been used by Sea Ray originally. The cheaper ones are just that... cheaper interior parts, cheaper (less durable) exterior parts. I think, if memory serves, it comes with that connector I mentioned.
 
Cobra, cord is connected to the antenna and terminated with coaxial connector
 
OK. I knew that Cobra makes inexpensive VHF radios, but even though I'm in the business, I had no idea they make antennas! I had to look it up. The only one I found was a 5' antenna, and I hate to say this considering you just bought it, but... from what I can see it looks like a really cheaply made antenna - from the cable itself, to the actual antenna housing and base. And I'd be 99% certain that that cheap cable just runs up inside the outer housing as the "guts". Plus, it's still only 5' instead of the typical 8'.

Now, if it will work for your situation, then that's fine. Just realize that the performance is going to be inferior, the range will be diminished, and you'll probably be replacing it in a couple years because it fails or even just physically breaks. There's a reason the one I mentioned is more expensive and why Sea Ray originally put a quality antenna on there from the factory.

So, with that said, you can cut the end off and just do what I mentioned above and go boating. Easy peasy! :)
 
That was the reason I bought it, I'm not off shore much and usually within sight of land. The original had the crumbling microphone cord and I snapped the antenna this weekend at the tip. So I was able to make a white bezel for new radio, connection wasn't that difficult, but was worried about drilling larger hole to fit the coaxial connector.
 
If you didn't break the internals, just glue the tip back on. A little bit of epoxy will make that an easy fix and a little sand and paint will make it look like new. While you're at it, give the entire antenna a little sand and some paint - plus, you'll have a much better antenna. Heck, you could even just tape it back together with white shrink wrap tape if you wanted to be like MacGyver!
 
I need to replace the two gas struts that hold the engine hatch up. Can anyone tell me the specs on them - closed/extended length and lbs weight rating? I'd like to do it all in one trip as opposed to going out to the boat, taking them off and measuring them, then going to a store, then returning.
 
I need to replace the two gas struts that hold the engine hatch up. Can anyone tell me the specs on them - closed/extended length and lbs weight rating? I'd like to do it all in one trip as opposed to going out to the boat, taking them off and measuring them, then going to a store, then returning.
Offhand, no. But it will be listed in your parts manual. If you don't have it, you can download it on the SR site. It's probably something like a 12x20 and 100lbs or 120lbs... but that's just going from memory. Look in the parts manual to be sure.
 
Offhand, no. But it will be listed in your parts manual. If you don't have it, you can download it on the SR site. It's probably something like a 12x20 and 100lbs or 120lbs... but that's just going from memory. Look in the parts manual to be sure.

Well, I did get the owners manual with parts manual supplement with the boat..... it's on the boat LOL
 

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