The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Don Hardison said:
Has anyone experienced normal idle then when opening up throttle, choking and then almost stall back to idle and ok again. First time out this summer.
So far drained fuel, some water found, changed fuel filter on water separator, changed plugs, then distributor/rotor buttoned back up and same issue. My next step is to look at fuel lines.....
Anyone have similar and success ?
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Maybe try seafoam cleaner in the fuel tank once a year. Sounds like a restriction in the carburetor. Also if bad enough, pour seafoam in the fuel filter.
 
Don Hardison said:
Has anyone experienced normal idle then when opening up throttle, choking and then almost stall back to idle and ok again. First time out this summer.
So far drained fuel, some water found, changed fuel filter on water separator, changed plugs, then distributor/rotor buttoned back up and same issue. My next step is to look at fuel lines.....
Anyone have similar and success ?
Click to expand...
You mentioned you found water in your gas. Did you get rid of ALL of it? Or just change the fuel/water separator? Did you verify that it is all gone? If so, how? Based on what you wrote, that sounds like your issue. Otherwise, it would be a good idea to diagnose, rather than just replace things, hoping it gets rid of the problem... that gets expensive awfully fast.
 
drained all the fuel. Replaced the filter so all that fuel was also removed. Will be checking lines today, and pump. Yea diagnosing is difficult now that every boat shop has a two week appointment calendar.
 
When I say "diagnose" - I meant try to do it yourself. I really just meant to try and figure things out before just replacing.

Verifying the water is out is probably your number one course of actions, simply because you already know that there was water in there. Monitoring fuel pressure at the rail would be a good step, as well. You did cap/rotor/plugs... if you have never replaced the wires, that would be fine to do and wouldn't be 'jumping the gun'. Did you replace the cap/rotor/plugs before or after the issue?

Verify your fuel vent is clear - or try running the engine with the fill cap removed. I believe your vent is inside the fuel fill.

Does your model year use a standard, screw-into-the-tank anti-siphon valve or an in-line, electric AS valve?
 
Lazy Daze said:
When I say "diagnose" - I meant try to do it yourself. I really just meant to try and figure things out before just replacing.

Verifying the water is out is probably your number one course of actions, simply because you already know that there was water in there. Monitoring fuel pressure at the rail would be a good step, as well. You did cap/rotor/plugs... if you have never replaced the wires, that would be fine to do and wouldn't be 'jumping the gun'. Did you replace the cap/rotor/plugs before or after the issue?

Verify your fuel vent is clear - or try running the engine with the fill cap removed. I believe your vent is inside the fuel fill.

Does your model year use a standard, screw-into-the-tank anti-siphon valve or an in-line, electric AS valve?
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Not sure sorry shou
 
Not sure. Should have posted that also, 2002 Sundancer, 5.0 260 hp
 
Lazy Daze said:
I don't recall if it was ever an original option on that model. But the 'usual' place that you see the shower is the port or stbd wall in the 'walkthrough' area (transom door). You can search through pics or model archives to see if it was - or just search for pics of other models to give a visual.

In the end, though, put it wherever you want. Download the installation template for the model you're thinking of (or a different one if needed) and see if it will fit where you want it. Do some exploring on your boat to check the space. But don't over think it - check out the space, cut the hole, run the lines and be done with it. It may sound daunting - but it's really pretty straight forward.
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Thanks for that info. I have looked around at photos to see if that same year had one or if anyone had installed them. Havn't found much of anything. It definitely seems daunting, mainly the cutting of the fiberglass, so i'll definitely do my research before doing anything.
 
Another question. Has anyone had the bow window hatch hinges get stripped out so you cannot tighten the screws and prop open the hatch? It looks like both of mine are stripped and I was wondering if this could be remedied, or if I would need to replace both full hinges. Thanks
 
Has anyone ever replaced the cabinets above the sink in cuddy?
 
Don Hardison said:
Has anyone ever replaced the cabinets above the sink in cuddy?
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I have seen some modification but all out replacements would probably not be easy. There is absolutely nothing straight when fitting cabinetry into a boat. What are you looking to do?

-Kevin
 
replace the rotted out cabinets that house the microwave and cubbies with sliding doors.
 
Don Hardison said:
replace the rotted out cabinets that house the microwave and cubbies with sliding doors.
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Remove the whole cabinet and repair or replace whatever you want. I did mine 2 years ago. I removed some of the rot and added a few pieces of plywood. Microwave held in by 2 screws on the top of the cabinet.
 
Looking for wisdom from the helpful all-knowing among you...

2004 260DA, 350 Mag MPI, 550 fresh water hours. Purchased two years ago.

Had a hydrolock problem last month, and found problems with my intake and one head. Decided to do it right, and replaced most major components above the block. Just finished, and it purrs like a kitten at 1000rpm now, but repeated oil changes have yet to clear the old milky oil from the crankcase. I took it up to 1800rpm and got a milky discharge from the valve cover breather tube. Throttled it back to idle and the discharge stopped. Still runs perfectly at idle, with steady temp and good OP.

Just my gut feeling, but I don't suspect a cracked block. On the advice of a local "expert", I reused my lower (open) riser gaskets - and initially they had tiny leaks on both sides. The leaks have since stopped by themselves, but what are the chances that this riser gasket leak could be allowing water into the crankcase?

Thanks!
 
eyebalz said:
Remove the whole cabinet and repair or replace whatever you want. I did mine 2 years ago. I removed some of the rot and added a few pieces of plywood. Microwave held in by 2 screws on the top of the cabinet.
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Can you share a photo of your project?
 
Don Hardison said:
Can you share a photo of your project?
Click to expand...

Really not much to look at. I cleaned out the rot, then cut a few pieces of plywood to size, painted it white and stapled it back in. I did this about 3 years ago. The wood rotted due to the port window leaking (yea I removed and re-caulked them the year before).

This weekend the horn bracket rotted away and the head mirror crashed to the floor. Made a new bracket to reinstall the horn. Next step is to get a new mirror cut to size and glue it back on. Also, the deck hatch is leaking. It seems like every few weeks its something. I am fortunate that I have a retired mechanic that helps me.
 
I've just removed my Bravo 3 outdrive as the first step in swapping engines. While it's out, is there recommended maintenance I should do other than just seals? Thanks!
 
Fossils said:
I've just removed my Bravo 3 outdrive as the first step in swapping engines. While it's out, is there recommended maintenance I should do other than just seals? Thanks!
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A lot of this depends on current condition and maintenance history, of course. But, off the top of my head... bellows, gimbal bearing, trim senders, lower shift cable, water inlet tube.
 
Can anyone confirm the festoon bulb size for the courtesy lights is 41MM? I'm getting a flickering aft bulb and want to just replace them with LEDs. Thanks
 
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