The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Thanks LD!
You're welcome, Don. When it comes to putting the canvas up... heck, there's probably multiple posts about that in this thread alone! It's a good read... this entire thread, I mean.
 
It was and I was able to sort out the front panels (3). Still havent figured out what the large one is unless it's a fast back (the one that slants to the stern)? Nice weather last couple of days so wasnt so worried about snapping everything. I will probably order the tool, looks a lot easier.
Ok another subject, can you order replacement cabinets for the 2002 260 Sundancer? One of mine has a lot of wood rot, so would love to replace those.
 
Tool for snaps? If you read/found info/tips/tricks on how to put the canvas up, there is no need for any tool. It goes up very easily in a very short period of time.

Is this "large one" you are referring to the aft camper canvas? Or is the cockpit cover? The slant back piece did not come with the camper canvas package - but an owner could have ordered it separately... or originally the boat didn't come with full camper canvas and then an owner added the "camper" part.
 
No idea, will lay it out and photo it. I have all the camper canvas up. I also have the cover, separate no isinglass, all canvas.
 
No idea, will lay it out and photo it. I have all the camper canvas up. I also have the cover, separate no isinglass, all canvas.
OK, I understood the first two sentences, but... what are you trying to say in that third one?!? :)
 
Sorry not enough commas. I have a cockpit cover, it's all canvas. I also have a larger piece with isinglass in it, that isnt part of the camper closure, all of those pieces are in place. Since it had another window in it I was thinking it was a different closure. I will lay it out and photo it, maybe you or someone can identify it.
 
Ah, that makes more sense! OK... the pic may help, but it "sounds" like you may be referring to the slant back cover. If you have the full camper canvas up, using both biminis as in your picture... If this "larger" piece is bigger than your current aft piece (the one you walk through), then it is most likely the slant back cover. It should have zippers on three sides and snaps on the bottom. It would be used if you didn't have the aft bimini in place.
 
Was at my boat today emptying out last of personal stuff for winter sleep..
Sun popped out so rinsed off some road grime from haul back to storage building..
Noticed quite a bit of water running out
Anchor locker drains..we've had heavy rains over last 24hrs..along with hose deck rinse.
I crawled up a ladder To look see into hatch, Nothing unusual, but windlass gypsy was tourqed up on anchor chain ..so up to helm to pay out inch or 2 so to take off chain pressure. Then Noticed the stainless chainroller guide anchor pulpit is "loose" wiggles side to side.
Closer look shows quite a bit of movement 1/4 inch or so.
And all 6 through bolts are loose....
By Reaching under deck though hatch ...it seems That there is a builtup deck thickness from SR factory..couple questions..
is this solid glass or laminated ply?
Winlass was tight..but didnt check if deck build up is under winlass also.
Is there any know issues in this area of the 260 forward deck?
IWill definitely be re setting sealant and bolts in spring.
Also I am new to Brovo III outdrives...
Are you supposed to be able to move the leg by hand either left or right 2-3 inches off center ...while up on the trailer..?
 
WeLike:

There are "known issues" with ANY boat with thru-bolted hardware. It's just one of those things you need to check every so often and reseal. An anchor roller sees a lot of sideways torque so it's not uncommon for them to loosen up. Hopefully, you're getting to it before the seal has been compromised and the wood core in that area has gotten soft. I didn't get to it quickly enough with my boat. I cut-out/replaced/re-fiberglassed the wood core. Rebuilt it by oversizing every hole, filling with epoxy, then drilling the appropriately sized hole - if it ever leaks again, water will never contact the core.

Remove the anchor roller, CLOSELY inspect the core in each hole. Poke into the wood. Post back after you have done that, if you need to.

On the plus side, the wood core there is separate from the deck's wood core. However... it'd be a good idea to remove your hatch and reseal it.
 
There shouldn’t be any free play on the outdrive. Mine had some play and I was able to crank down on the bolt on steering arm and that took care of it. But I only had 3/4”-1” of play.
 
Was at my boat today emptying out last of personal stuff for winter sleep..
Sun popped out so rinsed off some road grime from haul back to storage building..
Noticed quite a bit of water running out
Anchor locker drains..we've had heavy rains over last 24hrs..along with hose deck rinse.
I crawled up a ladder To look see into hatch, Nothing unusual, but windlass gypsy was tourqed up on anchor chain ..so up to helm to pay out inch or 2 so to take off chain pressure. Then Noticed the stainless chainroller guide anchor pulpit is "loose" wiggles side to side.
Closer look shows quite a bit of movement 1/4 inch or so.
And all 6 through bolts are loose....
By Reaching under deck though hatch ...it seems That there is a builtup deck thickness from SR factory..couple questions..
is this solid glass or laminated ply?
Winlass was tight..but didnt check if deck build up is under winlass also.
Is there any know issues in this area of the 260 forward deck?
IWill definitely be re setting sealant and bolts in spring.
Also I am new to Brovo III outdrives...
Are you supposed to be able to move the leg by hand either left or right 2-3 inches off center ...while up on the trailer..?
 
Thks Lazy Daze.
I understand that with any through bolts and with fg done with a wood core there is always a potential for hidden rot.
Especially If caulking seal fails..I was more interested in finding out if Searay historically used solid glass in areas with through bolts...ie cleats, tow loops, anchor pulpit etc...or sandwichs wood between the outer in inner layers of fg. I will be re & re entire area in spring . I am new to the sea ray brand and am learning lots from this site and all its knowledgeable members...Currently with my covered storage unfortunatly it isnt possible to work on my boat.
 
There shouldn’t be any free play on the outdrive. Mine had some play and I was able to crank down on the bolt on steering arm and that took care of it. But I only had 3/4”-1” of play.

Thks maggie..
I do hear a clicking sound coming from inside transom er...that "bolt" may be part of my problem..I will look closer in spring before the big splash day.
 
Explain the clicking sound. Is it whenever the engine is running?
Hi Maggieiscrazy
Boat is on trailer in winter storage, engine not running, but while standing on ground at stern and
Grabing leg and pushing either direction
There is 3-4 inches of leg movement from center line and I can hear a clicking sound at the end of that movement...noise is inside boat er at transom.
 
Just looking for ideas on mounting Scotty 5 x 5" down rigger bases onto both port /stbd gunnels.
I ran 2 scotty electrics on my previous 21ftr. and want to transfer to the 260DA.
I pulled the factory perko rod holders and the gunnel is at least 1 inch + thick, so Im thinking no additional backing needed just use 316 SS #12 screws sized long enough to penetrate through with liberal amount of sealant. Has anyone done this before and are you happy with the strength ...you know, just in case that surprise bottom depth gabs the 15lb cannon ball and trys to rip the rigger off the boat. ( I run 250 lb braid line)
 
Just another question to ask 260da owners
Has anyone with the bravo III added a slip on / bolt on style hydro wing to the leg cavitation plate, if yes what make and did you see an improvement on boats ability to remain up on plane at lower throttle positions.?
 
Just another question to ask 260da owners
Has anyone with the bravo III added a slip on / bolt on style hydro wing to the leg cavitation plate, if yes what make and did you see an improvement on boats ability to remain up on plane at lower throttle positions.?
Given the weight of the boat, a hydrofoil is going to have minimal effect, if any... and it could compromise performance - you never really know if it will cause an issue till you try it. But the amount of lift it supplies is a given X amount of pounds, regardless of what boat it is on. As the boat gets heavier, the beneficial effect shrinks dramatically.

You should have trim tabs - those DO have a BIG effect on the boat's performance. Between trimming the B3 properly and using the trim tabs, those will have a dramatic effect on the boat's planing ability.
 

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