The official 2009 270DA ~ 2010 280DA thread

[dvoyer]

I don't think the Bennett Trim Tabs NMEA kit requires calibration from a electronics point of view. Well, at least I never needed to calibrate the tabs. In any case, if you PM Tabman he could answer your question since he represents Bennett.

Cheers,
Kaoru

I have been in touch with Bennett and they told me that the calibration is done via software. My e7 doesn't permit a calibration. One of my tab is displayed perfectly and the other is slightly offset. On the Mercmonitor I see the exact same values as I see on the Raymarine e7. I was lucky for the port side tab and a bit less for the starboard side tab.
Dominic

 

[Brando99]

Test


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[Kaoru]

I have been in touch with Bennett and they told me that the calibration is done via software. My e7 doesn't permit a calibration. One of my tab is displayed perfectly and the other is slightly offset. On the Mercmonitor I see the exact same values as I see on the Raymarine e7. I was lucky for the port side tab and a bit less for the starboard side tab.
Dominic

According to this thread, the RayMarine e7 (like my C70 classic) can't do calibration. However, Tabman does seem to imply that you can calibrate using a separate device (like an indicator panel or other MFD). I myself have a Merc Monitor which has a Trim Tab display... I can't remember if it has a calibration section for the tabs (I know it has a calibration for the power trim; use that all the time).

Kaoru

 

[Kaoru]

I've done some more investigation, since I pride myself in my electronic know-how. For the most part, Raymarine MFDs, some Garmins, etc. do "display" trim tab sensor data via NMEA 2000. This is done via:

PGN: 130576 - Small Craft Status
Field #1: Port trim tab Bits: 8 Signed: true
Field #2: Starboard trim tab Bits: 8 Signed: true
Field #3: Status - 0 = uncalibrated 1 = calibrated: Apparently this field #3 is only described in NMEA documentation that is for purchase.

The calibration, however, is NOT necessarily supported by MFDs like Raymarine (only their widescreen E's and G's do it). Calibration is done via:

PGN: 65289 - Simnet: Trim Tab Sensor Calibration
Field #1: Manufacturer Code - Simrad Bits: 11 Match: 1857 Type: Manufacturer code Signed: false
Field #2: Reserved Bits: 2 Signed: false
Field #3: Industry Code Bits: 3 Type: Lookup table Signed: false Lookup: 4=Marine
Field #4: Calibrate - 0 = start calibration: Apparently this field #4 is only described in NMEA documentation that is for purchase.

In the case of Bennett's NMEA 2000 Trim Tab sender, it sends out a essentially a number (% of tab). According to the NMEA standard, the sender (not the "display" or MFD) is responsible for mapping and storing the calibration values. The following is some instructions I found on the Raymarine site on how to use the i70 to calibrate the tabs. It's quite technical but you could reproduce it manually. Unfortunately, you would need a Maretron USB100 connection (to a PC) or connect a device like the i70 to do it.

Bennett Marine NMEA2000 Calibration Routine
Power up status
When an uncalibrated Bennett Marine NMEA2000 device is connected to a NMEA2000 bus it will begin to broadcast PGN130576 (Small Craft Status) with Fields 1 and 2 alternating between % and 100% every 1 second. Field 3 will be set to 0 indicating that the Bennett Marine NMEA2000 needs to be calibrated. Fields 1&2 alternating between % and 100% will also serve as an indication to the user that the device needs to be calibrated.

Calibration:
To calibrate the Bennett Marine NMEA2000 device the user interface unit must provide for a calibration routine which includes the following steps:

1. Enter Calibration Mode (Manufacturer specific)
2. User to be prompted by the user interface unit to bring the tabs to the full up position.
3. The user will bring the tabs to the full up position using the trim tab controls.
4. The user will press a button on the user interface unit to indicate that the tabs are fully up.
5. The user interface unit will output 0 for field 4 of PGN 65289. This will place the Bennett Marine NMEA2000 device into calibration mode. The device will begin recording calibration data.
6. User prompted by the user interface unit to bring the tabs to the full down position
7. The user will bring the tabs to the full down position using the trim tab controls.
8. The Bennett Marine NMEA2000 device will sense when the tabs have stopped moving and end the data collection.
9. The Bennett Marine NMEA2000 device will output PGN130576 (Small Craft Status) with Fields 1 & 2 showing the percentage of tab deflection and Field 3 as 1. This status bit (Field 3) indicates that the Bennett Marine NMEA2000 device has been calibrated. Deflection information is sent out from the Bennett Marine NMEA2000 in increments of 5%.
10. User should be prompted that the calibration was successful.

To translate, essentially you need a device that can send the PGN 65289 Trim Tab Calibration, AFTER you put the trim tabs in their FULL UP position. When you send the calibration PGN with Field #4 set to 0, the Bennett sender/controller goes into calibration mode. You then put the trim tabs in their FULL DOWN position. The sender detects the full stop of the tabs and exits the calibration mode. Your trim tabs are now calibrated.

Note that to do this, you either need a device like the Raymarine i70 above or a Maretron USB100 to connect a PC with communication software to send the text PGN strings. Obviously, the PC solution is only tech-minded folks like myself.

Kaoru

 

[dvoyer]

Kaoru,
I don't give up easily and I don't like when things don't work as it should. Yesterday I played a bit with the length of the rod and now both tabs are displayed from 0% to 100%. It's almost perfect but I can see a little difference in how both tabs are displayed. The one I "adjusted" is perfectly accurate : 0% tabs fully retracted, percentage increase in a linear way up to 100% and reach 100% exactly when the tab is fully extended. The other one goes from 0% to 100% but seems a bit offset. The indicator shows 100% before the tab is really fully extracted. I would say about 10% offset. I tried to play with few capacitors in parallel with the sensor coil but the capacitors I tried were too big. The smallest one I had was 1000 micro Farad. It was way too much. I will post if I succeed !

At the same time I'm installing a Trimetric to monitor my battery bank. I want to know how many amperes I use and how is the charge of the batteries.

Regards,
Dominic

 

[Kaoru]

For who is interested, here's a pic of me towing my 270 for launch. My truck is a F150 XTR with MaxTow. GCVWR of 17,200 lbs allows me to tow about 11,000 lbs. Boat & trailer transmits about 9700 lbs to ground and 1000 lbs of tongue weight.

 

[dvoyer]

Kaoru, when you switched your Ray240 VHF (always stand-by originally), how have you done it ? My thinking was to use the outside fuse as the cutting point but I would like to hear how you've done it.

Also, I will install a GPS antenna this weekend over the arch. Any advice to fish the cable from the arch down to the fuse panel ?

We are going to New-York City next week with the boat

Dominic

 

[Kaoru]

Kaoru, when you switched your Ray240 VHF (always stand-by originally), how have you done it ? My thinking was to use the outside fuse as the cutting point but I would like to hear how you've done it.

Also, I will install a GPS antenna this weekend over the arch. Any advice to fish the cable from the arch down to the fuse panel ?

We are going to New-York City next week with the boat

Dominic

For my install, I put in a lighted 12V panel (with fuses) just above the storage compartment. Here's a pic of the panel, notice the first switch is VHF/DSC. The second switch provides power to the GPS antenna (not the chart plotter, it's separate) and the NMEA2000/SeaTalk/SeaTalkng networks.

To wire it, I ran appropriate gauge wires to the fuse panel at the helm. The pic below shows all the RED wires (bunched with white labels) looping around the OEM fuse panel from the right. I just butt joined the wires (the VHF one) and reused the fuse spot for something else. Note that I had to add a ground terminal strip (below the fuse panel) for new grounds as there was no space on the OEM panel. In the helm access, to the right is a access hole with bumper/abrasion protection into the gunnel. You can access that point by removing the storage compartment. Note that that are is sealed because the AC is just below.

For the GPS in the arch, there should be wire conduit/tubing (installed by Sea Ray) in the arch going down to the starboard mount point. You'll have to remove the bolster board which is held on by clips/trees; the removal may break some clips some get some spares. You'll also remove the speaker (be careful of the grill) and the access panel for the VHF antenna. Here's what you'll see (notice the conduit in the antenna access):

You'll have to drill a new hole as any hole for cables (by Sea Ray) are filled with gobs of silicon; you'll see what I mean. BTW, the arch join point is *extremely* thick and hard (I roasted 2 bits doing it).

 

[Brando99]

Does anyone know where I can purchase a complete replacement screen/shade with frame for the forward stateroom? I think the part number is 1915587?? I have been trying to order one through the local sea ray dealer but I have had no luck with them.

 

[B&AKearney]

We hadn't used our camper canvas in a few weeks, and when we went to put up Saturday it was extremely humid and was tight, tight in the back. Any advice on how to loosen it up? On our Crown line we were able to make some adjustments via the bimimi poles, but that doesn't seem to be an option on this. Also must note that hubby started at the back working his way forward....not sure this could be the issue or not. Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[Off duty]

I posted over a year ago about my purchase if a 2009 270. Love the boat! Thank god I bought the extended warranty. Last summer I had a bad seal which caused gear lube to leak. Was a $4000 fix. Paid for the warranty. Now I just had my belt pop off during an outing. I was able to force it on by loosening the alternator. As soon as I started it up, it popped off again and I had to get towed in. Any reason that the belt would pop off? Any different way to put it back on other than loosening the alternator?

thanks,

mike

 

[jason78]

I posted over a year ago about my purchase if a 2009 270. Love the boat! Thank god I bought the extended warranty. Last summer I had a bad seal which caused gear lube to leak. Was a $4000 fix. Paid for the warranty. Now I just had my belt pop off during an outing. I was able to force it on by loosening the alternator. As soon as I started it up, it popped off again and I had to get towed in. Any reason that the belt would pop off? Any different way to put it back on other than loosening the alternator?

thanks,

mike

You need to use the belt tensioner, not the alternator. It should be the pulley located just to the left and slightly up from the alternator. It has a large nut on it over a small, maybe 8mm stud. You loosen the nut slightly with a deepwell socket, don't recall the size, then the tensioner puller will drop a bit. Route the belt per the sticker on the top of the engine. Then use turn the stud clockwise with the small wrench until the belt is tight enough and come back and tighten the nut back up to hold it at that level. I will look for a picture that may explain better.

If the belt keeps coming off it is possible to have a bad belt or one of the pulleys is not lined up right due to a bad pulley bearing or improperly mounted part.


Edit: See picture #2 in Post #3 here for a picture of the tensioner- http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/40818-Circ-pump-replacement-on-5-0-MPI

 

[Kaoru]

I posted over a year ago about my purchase if a 2009 270. Love the boat! Thank god I bought the extended warranty. Last summer I had a bad seal which caused gear lube to leak. Was a $4000 fix. Paid for the warranty. Now I just had my belt pop off during an outing. I was able to force it on by loosening the alternator. As soon as I started it up, it popped off again and I had to get towed in. Any reason that the belt would pop off? Any different way to put it back on other than loosening the alternator?

thanks,
mike

If your belt is popping off, it may be routed wrong... It has to follow the diagram on the engine. I had belt problems after I had my water pump replaced (on warranty) and the tech routed the belt wrong. BTW, the bad prop seal was a known problem and there was a recall. I had the same seal blow-by as you and would lose all my gear lube; the repair was the installation of a double seal.

Cheers,
Kaoru

 

[Off duty]

Well I got the news from the mechanic and he said I was lucky. The seawater pump failed and the pulley attached to the shaft almost came out. He said he was able to pull it out by hand and if it would have come out on the water the boat could have sank. Thank god that did not happen as I had my girlfriends two year old grandson with us and the puget sound is very cold. Hoping the extended warranty covers this.

 

[B&AKearney]

Looking for height information (with radar arch) of others' boats in this thread. Thank you!

 

[dvoyer]

Looking for height information (with radar arch) of others' boats in this thread. Thank you!

Others may have more accurate answers but for now I can say mine is almost 13' on trailer and about 10' on water (with anchor/navigation lights down).

 

[Debt-icated]

Hi all,

I see this thread has been quiet for a long time, hopefully its still monitored. My wife and i just up sized from a 07 240 to a new to us 2012 280DA. Everything thus far has been awesome except the port cabin door. Ours is very hard to get latched from inside the cabin. it feels like the door needs to be pulled very hard in order to get the top cover to latch. Is this normal for all you guys, or is mine needing some sort of adjustment?

 

[dvoyer]

Hi all,

I see this thread has been quiet for a long time, hopefully its still monitored. My wife and i just up sized from a 07 240 to a new to us 2012 280DA. Everything thus far has been awesome except the port cabin door. Ours is very hard to get latched from inside the cabin. it feels like the door needs to be pulled very hard in order to get the top cover to latch. Is this normal for all you guys, or is mine needing some sort of adjustment?

Congratulations for the new boat !

You can slightly move the black plastic channel that retains the door when you close it. I had a similar issue with the screen door and my dealer did it. They removed the screws and move the channel a bit. The main cabin door on my boat is easy to close from inside, the latch isn't very smooth though.

 

[Debt-icated]

Thank you! I will try that tonight.

 

[Debt-icated]

do any of you with the 2009 270- current 280 DA have one equipped with the factory upgraded stereo system? I am specially wanting information related to the placement of the sub woofer. I see that Sea Ray has it on the port side of the boat right next to cabin entrance. I would like to know if putting a sub there creates unwanted vibration noise and if the woofer projects sound well. The placement there just seems odd to me, however in this boat I don't know if there is a better spot to locate.