The official 2009 270DA ~ 2010 280DA thread

[Kaoru]

Got a favor to ask of the group:
Does anyone have their boat handy that could tell me the vertical dimension between the sole of the swim platform and the joint line where the sunpad folds out? This would be the center area (port of the 270).
We haven't taken delivery yet, but think that would be a great place to stick the name. Would 8" tall letters fit? 10"?
Thanks!
-Dennis

Ah the dilemma of where to put the boat name on a 270/280. The storage locker door seems good but only if you don't put the canvas up. Taking into account this, the only place is the spot is from the sole of the swim platform to the bottom of the canvas which in my case is only about six inches (may be a tad more). This is not enough room for

but I'm still looking for a solution somehow. Though it may become a moot point when I put in Weaver davits and my Zodiac 240 Cadet Airlite.

Cheers,
Kaoru

 

[Kaoru]

So I a little bit of advice to pass along. As I mentioned in post #76 my bow thruster install is coming along nicely. This has given me the opportunity to inspect my hull, and more to the point, my outdrive. As it turns out, I discovered some galvanic corrosion around the prop shaft where it meets the prop, some on the edge of the cavitation plate, and on the skeg. Given that my outdrive has only been in the water (in total) for about 8 months (I've had my boat for only 1 1/2 years), I wouldn't think that this would happen so soon. However, as I read up on the Bravo III it appears that corrosion is a common problem with the unit.

Well, I researched how to repair/repaint the outdrive and the requirements are a little on the steep side (cost/material wise and effort wise). But painting/refinishing/touching up the affected areas will not solve the root problem. What was the root problem? Zinc… My anodes were zinc as I was told by the tech I was talking to. When I commented on the build up of oxide, he mentions that the zinc anodes are working correctly. I found out later how wrong he was. First, zinc should not be used fresh water as it is the least effective of the three types; zinc, aluminium, and magnesium. Second, any build up of oxide (white/yellow crust/powder) means the the anode has been pacified; rendered ineffective unless you scour the oxide off. From what I read in cleaning the anodes, never use steel wool, iron oxide emery cloth/sandpaper, or brush will steel bristles as that will render the anode ineffective as well as it change the electrical properties of the metal (you're essentially "painting" the anode with iron). It looks like that my corrosion was caused by the oxide building up on the anodes for the one month (in 2009) Summer Dreams was in the water, then winterized/stored, and finally commissioned in 2010 without a cleaning. An entire summer in the marina without effective anodes, due to being zinc and covered in oxide, is the root cause of my corrosion.

My course of action right now is damage control, though I wish I knew about this before the damage was done. It's frustrating that the "so called experts" don't know this and/or offered advice to stave such damage/condition off. But what is done is done.

My solution now is to replace the anodes will magnesium ones which are best for fresh water. Also, I will do some preventative maintenance over this season by checking the anodes and cleaning them if necessary. Also, I'm going to look into how I can test if my Mercathode is working as my dealer doesn't have the tools. As for the corrosion, I'll tackle that when it becomes practical to refinish the drive. In the mean time, I'll prep the affected areas by sanding/grinding (no iron allowed) the pitted areas, Alumiprep#33 the bare metal (etching), Alodine (conversion coating), prime with an epoxy primer, and finally spray paint (2 coats) with epoxy paint. (NOTE: epoxy primer/paint (like any other epoxy) is extremely nasty for your lungs. Spraying *requires* a respirator (not the mask/disposable ones.)

Cheers,
Kaoru

 

[jason78]

So I a little bit of advice to pass along. As I mentioned in post #76 my bow thruster install is coming along nicely. This has given me the opportunity to inspect my hull, and more to the point, my outdrive. As it turns out, I discovered some galvanic corrosion around the prop shaft where it meets the prop, some on the edge of the cavitation plate, and on the skeg. Given that my outdrive has only been in the water (in total) for about 8 months (I've had my boat for only 1 1/2 years), I wouldn't think that this would happen so soon. However, as I read up on the Bravo III it appears that corrosion is a common problem with the unit.

Well, I researched how to repair/repaint the outdrive and the requirements are a little on the steep side (cost/material wise and effort wise). But painting/refinishing/touching up the affected areas will not solve the root problem. What was the root problem? Zinc… My anodes we're zinc as I was told by the tech I was talking to. When I commented on the build up of oxide, he mentions that the zinc anodes are working correctly. I found out later how wrong he was. First, zinc should NOT be used fresh water as it is the least effective. Second, any build up of oxide (white/yellow crust/powder) means the the anode has been pacified; rendered ineffective unless you scour the oxide off. NEVER use steel wool, iron oxide emery cloth/sandpaper, or brush will steel bristles as that will render the anode ineffective.

My course of action right now is damage control, though I wish I knew about this before the damage was done. It's frustrating that the "so called experts" don't know this and/or offered advice to stave such damage/condition off. But what is done is done.

My solution now is to replace the anodes will magnesium ones which are best for fresh water. Also, I will do some preventative maintenance over this season by checking the anodes and cleaning them if necessary. Also, I'm going to look into how I can test if my Mercathode is working as my dealer doesn't have the tools. As for the corrosion, I'll tackle that when it becomes practical to refinish the drive. In the mean time, I'll prep the affected areas by sanding/grinding (no iron allowed) the pitted areas, Alumiprep#33 the bare metal (etching), Alodine (conversion coating), prime with an epoxy primer, and finally spray paint (2 coats) with epoxy paint. (NOTE: epoxy primer/paint (like any other epoxy) is extremely nasty for your lungs. Spraying *requires* a respirator (not the mask/disposable ones.)

Cheers,
Kaoru

Kaoru,

It may also be a good idea to consider switching to the RED Mercathode controller and adding the two anode "pucks" that attach to the transom on each side of the Gimbal housing. It is pretty much a requirement in my lake to have that system. It really helps keep down the corrosion.

http://marinepowerservice.com/BoatingStore/browse_detail3.cfm/productID/44820.cfm

 

[ReLAXin]

Hello all, I've put a few hours on the 2010 and had a few minor issues and questions.

1. The v berth table didn't fit at all (had 270da sticker), but dealer reinforced the cross bars and made some adj and now works as intended. Looked like Searay wasn't sending updated version.

2. A/C unit drain tray was cracked, so it flooded my aft cabin sleeping area. Dealer taking care of it. I also added a 3 inch memory foam pad i cut to size to my aft cushions and thats much more comfortable.

3. Does anyone know the length of anchor CHAIN i have, or total length chain/rope? Whats best to mark any points on the line?

4. Should i be using the trim tabs to help get on plane, or just make adj once i am up? I had 6 adults and it really seemed to labor to get up. I thought with the 496 it would have enough power. Maybe i should have done thing differently.
Any suggestions on the use of tabs would be great, i got up on plane once and the boat listed to the left. I think my tabs were set wrong.


5. What kind of gas burn are we getting at different speeds? How much more is it at 40mph vs cruising around at 25. I was looking on the net for boat reviews or tests but haven't found any.

Thanks for any help

 

[Kaoru]

Hello all, I've put a few hours on the 2010 and had a few minor issues and questions.

1. The v berth table didn't fit at all (had 270da sticker), but dealer reinforced the cross bars and made some adj and now works as intended. Looked like Searay wasn't sending updated version.

My table in the v-berth doesn't fit nicely either (and mine is a 270) with the cross bar being short (because it has to be bowed out to hold the table; the tab on the table doesn't fit right? I never figured it out). When the table is put in, the bar pops out and down goes the table. It's a accident waiting to happen. My idea (which I haven't done yet) is to fabricate a cross bar with support legs (out of structural plastic) sturdy enough to support weight and the inevitable movement/strain.

2. A/C unit drain tray was cracked, so it flooded my aft cabin sleeping area. Dealer taking care of it. I also added a 3 inch memory foam pad i cut to size to my aft cushions and thats much more comfortable.

3. Does anyone know the length of anchor CHAIN i have, or total length chain/rope? Whats best to mark any points on the line?

Good question...

4. Should i be using the trim tabs to help get on plane, or just make adj once i am up? I had 6 adults and it really seemed to labor to get up. I thought with the 496 it would have enough power. Maybe i should have done thing differently.
Any suggestions on the use of tabs would be great, i got up on plane once and the boat listed to the left. I think my tabs were set wrong.

Mind the trim tab controls; don't push the rocker(s) down thinking that the tabs are going down (they are going up)... It's all confusing, even more so when there's no tab indicator. I'm solving that by installing Bennett tab position senders.

5. What kind of gas burn are we getting at different speeds? How much more is it at 40mph vs cruising around at 25. I was looking on the net for boat reviews or tests but haven't found any.

Well, I haven't tracked that yet because I haven't installed my MercMonitor yet with a NMEA2000 backbone and SeaTalk2 connection to my C70. I'm still trying to source Maretron micro C field attachable connectors/cables for the backbone. BTW, the Bennett senders connect to the backbone and send the trim tab position to the MercMonitor which can display it (just like the power trim).

Cheers,
Kaoru

 

[Blitzn]

Hello all, I've put a few hours on the 2010 and had a few minor issues and questions.

1. The v berth table didn't fit at all (had 270da sticker), but dealer reinforced the cross bars and made some adj and now works as intended. Looked like Searay wasn't sending updated version.

2. A/C unit drain tray was cracked, so it flooded my aft cabin sleeping area. Dealer taking care of it. I also added a 3 inch memory foam pad i cut to size to my aft cushions and thats much more comfortable.

3. Does anyone know the length of anchor CHAIN i have, or total length chain/rope? Whats best to mark any points on the line?

4. Should i be using the trim tabs to help get on plane, or just make adj once i am up? I had 6 adults and it really seemed to labor to get up. I thought with the 496 it would have enough power. Maybe i should have done thing differently.
Any suggestions on the use of tabs would be great, i got up on plane once and the boat listed to the left. I think my tabs were set wrong.


5. What kind of gas burn are we getting at different speeds? How much more is it at 40mph vs cruising around at 25. I was looking on the net for boat reviews or tests but haven't found any.

Thanks for any help

We were missing the "tall" post for our cockpit tablke - but everything else has fit. I will check the supports to make sure.

On ours - when they tested it for delivery two weeks ago - they found the A/C was surging. Come to learn they installed a EU 220V unit Heat/AC unit that they had to replace. It has since been replaced - where is the tray you reference so I can check for a crack?

I'll ask service about our length of anchor line and see what I can find out.

When we went out with the Captain on our delivery cruise he explained how the trim tabs are wired. While to my Engineer brain its counter-intuitive - I can at least keep it straight now.
Capt explained - start with the trim tabs button ALL the way down (basically tabs retracted). Then, when boat is on-plane or needs leveling - you press down (on the upper part of the rocker) on the corresponding side (port-starboard) that needs to come down. For example - if listing to port, press down on the right tab button. It is actually deploying the opposite (port in this case) trim tab which is what screws my brain up. But as long as I can think of it that way I am ok - and can attest it works. Or you can spend $500 for a tab indicator - but you still will have them wired crossways to my brainstem (or re-wire).

I guess it depends upon the size of the adults - however with 3 adults and 4 kids aboard we were on-plane lickety split - and ran her up to 42mph - with the Isenglas installed.
This weekend in 15+knot winds, we hit 43 with 2 adults and 2 kids. At 3100rpm (about 29-30mph) I am running about 13 gph, and at 40+ I was consuming 16gph last weekend. It varies of course based upon load, weather, wind, etc. However, I've been quite pleased with the fuel consumption on regular unleaded.
I've also attached a BoatTest data on the 2009 270 with the 496.

Hope this helps some!

 

[nativetx58]

Well... I have a dumb question. How does the stern shower work? I have messed with it, turned the knobs and nothing happens. All the other sink facets work just fine, fresh water pump works with no issue. One of my dock mates said I needed to look for a fuse or a breaker that may be thrown, is that right? Would their be a fuse or breaker for just the transom shower? Very confused so any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. This is on a 2010 280.

 

[David Paul]

Well... I have a dumb question. How does the stern shower work? I have messed with it, turned the knobs and nothing happens. All the other sink facets work just fine, fresh water pump works with no issue. One of my dock mates said I needed to look for a fuse or a breaker that may be thrown, is that right? Would their be a fuse or breaker for just the transom shower? Very confused so any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. This is on a 2010 280.

Does your shower wand itself also have a button on it? My 260DA had one and if you didn't press that no water would come out even if the hot and cold knobs were turned on.

And all the water lines should operate simultaneously as long as the water pump is turned on so there is no fuse for the shower only a breaker for the water pump itself.

 

[nativetx58]

Thanks David,

The wand has a dial?? on it that moves back and forth and I thought that would turn the water on. Inside the door is a knob that turns to change from cold to hot water. I took the head off and there was water in the line so I guess it worked when the guys delivered the boat, but I cannot get it to work. I am going down to the boat later today so I will mess with it some more and see if I can figure it out. Thanks!

 

[ReLAXin]

Near the end of the hose (head) is a section thats rotates for an additional way to turn water on/off when holding the hose. I missed it also we checking to see if it works.

 

[ReLAXin]

Thanks for the great info and help with the tabs.
The A/c unit in cabinet sits in/on a tray/pan. This has a drain tube on it. This pan/tray had the crack that leaked water into cabinet and aft sleeping area. Dealer taking care of it. Just one of those things i guess.

 

[ReLAXin]

I had a salesman tell me to always run my generator when going out for the fridge and ac. One impeller later, I was wondering if just running the fridge would Be ok on engine power. Any harm to anything? I don't need the ac on most outings but I'd like to keep the fridge cold. Do I need to change batteries from "both" settings?

Can I run the fridge for several hours on a single battery while anchored. Just worried about how much juice the fridge actually uses. What's everybody else been doing?

 

[Kaoru]

I had a salesman tell me to always run my generator when going out for the fridge and ac. One impeller later, I was wondering if just running the fridge would Be ok on engine power. Any harm to anything? I don't need the ac on most outings but I'd like to keep the fridge cold. Do I need to change batteries from "both" settings?

Can I run the fridge for several hours on a single battery while anchored. Just worried about how much juice the fridge actually uses. What's everybody else been doing?

You don't have to run the generator for the fridge if the engine running obviously; just only for the AC, stove & microwave. Running your 12 V systems including the fridge doesn't hurt your engine (specifically the alternator) one bit (unless your drawing more amps than the alternator can output; which is not ever likely). As for being on the hook, you can run the fridge off 12 V (no genny) for the night. This *assumes* that your not running a bunch of systems (stereo, tv, etc. at the same time) and you've run the engine for an extended period of time beforehand with the battery switch on the house battery to charge it fully. You can tell if it's charged if your voltage is 14.4 V and not <= 13 V (means it charging).

Note that running the genny does allow you to run the battery charger. However, it only puts out 10 amps per battery channel which is not enough to stop the drain on the house battery if your using 12 V systems. Having outfitted my 270 with a cockpit TV, sat dome, radar, internet/phone, etc. I have downed my house battery even running the genny. The battery switch is your friend... Use the starter battery for starting the engine, switch to house for cruising. When on the hook, if you kill your house battery, start the engine from the starter battery and then charge the house battery (don't forget to switch to house) until voltage is 14.4 V. NEVER turn the battery switch to OFF while the engine is running; all other positions can be switched to while the engine is running though without harm.

The addition of Xantrex LinkLite battery monitor may help to manage your house battery at night as you can set an alarm to tell you when to charge the battery.

Cheer,
Kaoru

 

[mpk19]

Hi all, hope someone can help with minor AC issue. The AC in the mid-cabin "kid's cave", kblows like crazy, even at the lowest setting. It is literally 10 degrees colder in there and my kids are freezing at night. I haven't addressed it with the dealer yet, but i was wondering if anyone else has had the same problem and how it was fixed?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Kaoru]

Hi all, hope someone can help with minor AC issue. The AC in the mid-cabin "kid's cave", kblows like crazy, even at the lowest setting. It is literally 10 degrees colder in there and my kids are freezing at night. I haven't addressed it with the dealer yet, but i was wondering if anyone else has had the same problem and how it was fixed?

There are two vents for the AC, one in the v-berth and one in the mid-cabin. The one in the mid-cabin cannot be adjusted unlike the one in the v-berth. Unfortunately, when the system is not cooling/heating (but on) the fan on its lowest setting still blows quite some air. Enough air that the vent in the v-berth on my boat will close itself up; most annoying. I removed the vanes (to the vent in the v-berth making it like the mid-cabin) to even things out. But there is not much you can do except put the AC in *auto* mode instead of cool. This will cool when necessary and heat when necessary, just set the desired temp. I'd be interested if your dealer has a different solution.

Cheers,
Kaoru

 

[Spot]

Last summer I did the same thing with the vent, made it adjustable. No need this year however, no Sun in Oregon yet, the Columbia still above flood stage.

 

[Blitzn]

I had a salesman tell me to always run my generator when going out for the fridge and ac. One impeller later, I was wondering if just running the fridge would Be ok on engine power. Any harm to anything? I don't need the ac on most outings but I'd like to keep the fridge cold. Do I need to change batteries from "both" settings?

Can I run the fridge for several hours on a single battery while anchored. Just worried about how much juice the fridge actually uses. What's everybody else been doing?

We don't have a gennie on our boat - when we took delivery, the Captain said it was just fine to run the fride off of the battery. The only caution he made was we should learrn which battery it is powered from so at anchor we could switch from "both" to "1" or "2" so the fridge and peripherals would keep running without risking two dead batteries. Then, if there is insufficient juice, switch to the charged battery to re-fire and run back to wherever.

 

[Blitzn]

Our A/C was "whistling" and not cooling the v-berth, so the dealer checked it out and there is a setting for the fan that powers the blower to the V-berth. While the mid-berth remains cooler (smaller area) - when he moved the fan speed to full, it improved flow to the forward area drastically.

 

[mpk19]

I made an appointment with the dealer to see if we can trouble shoot the problem, i will let you know what we find.

 

[mpk19]

I just wanted to follow up on the A/C issue. The dealer came out Wednesday to work on my punchlist. He did not have an answer for the AC other than switching the registers. We did that and that helped the airflow slightly. I am going to look into putting a 3rd vent near the exit of the mid cabin and have it blow toward the v-berth. Alternately, I may just put a longer vent hose in and loop it once or twice behind the shelving.

For now, I bought some AC foam at Home Depot and put that at the edge of the top shelf to direct the air out toward the main cabin. I ran it for several hours and it did not freeze or condensate so it seems like that is a good temporary fix.

We leave Monday for our trip to the Chesapeake. Delaware River south to Chesapeak City in the C&D canal, staying at the Chesepeake Inn Marina for a night then onto Rock Hall, MD and Haven Harbor Marina. Next across to Baltimore for 2 nights. We're excited as this will be our first "official" boat vacation. We havent done more than one night yet this year.